When visiting Canada's Yukon Territory, drive the 111 miles from Dawson City to Tok, Alaska via the wonderfully named Chicken. On this 'Top of the World Highway' as it's called, you will meet maybe 6 or 7 cars an hour. This is an international highway between Canada and the US, yet it's gravel or red sand most of the way, so allow 5 hours or so. The scenery's really top of the world though and at Chicken you'll get free coffee for making it that far!

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This was my closest ever brush with foot and mouth - a shot of Yukon jack whisky with a shrivelled human toe in the bottom.

To join the Sourtoe Cocktail Club in the Downtown Hotel, Dawson City, Yukon, I had to let its gnarled blackened nail touch my lip, a tradition that started in the 1970s when a local discovered the frozen tootsie of a rum runner who'd had to amputate it in a log cabin when he got frostbite.

Occasionally toes are accidentally swallowed by visiting drunks - they re-emerge painfully a few days later but they aren't really toes you can use again (unless you're really flying), so a steady supply have been donated over the years including ones from diabetics and people who decide to use a lawnmower while wearing sandals. Last time I went they had a full donated set of five toes, all preserved in salt.

It's not as bad as it sounds and you do get to become a member of the Sourtoe Cocktail Club, the only club I've been a member of in my life.

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