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Snow falls in Montreal
Photo: Ryan Remiorz/AP

View from the top
Tupper
To an Anglophone, Montreal can seem an unfriendly, sterile place. The underlying, benignly Canadian tension between the French and, well, everyone else can make you feel like a priest at a swingers party. But go to the top of Mont Royale, a geological wart in the centre of the island, by night and you'll realise the benefits of a city which deals with its social conflict with an ironic sneer. A staggering cityscape par excellence, within an urban environment that, anywhere else, would seem threatening in the hours of darkness.
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