Our first stay at Atmosphere was enchanting from all points of view. Rooms are arranged with refinement and nothing disturbed our tranquillity. An accommodation not to be missed for a moderate price.

Atmosphère
1933 Panet
Montreal, Québec
H2L 3A1
Canada
Tél: 514-510-7976
www.atmospherebb.com

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This isn't the cheapest B&B option in this wonderful city (other than the weather, what's not to like about Montreal?), but it is certainly a great place to stay if you want to relax.

Kent and Stephane, the owners, are wonderful hosts. Their rooms are clean, and luxuriously comfortable.
Their location is handy for just about everything in this small but universally interesting city.
They are both straight- and gay-friendly.

But the best thing about staying at Absolument is their breakfasts, which are four-course, one hour affairs (only drawback is they don't leave much room for eating more during the day) served in your room anytime from 8-12. Jolly nice.

I love Montreal, and though I don't speak French, didn't find being in this largely francophone city intimidating: everyone was very friendly and accommodated my need to communicate in English with ease.

www.absolumentmontreal.com/en/index.html

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In Montreal as an anglophone it is tempting to stick to Ste Catherines and St Laurent, but it is definitely worth your while overcoming a fear of the language barrier and heading to the French side. The areas of Rue Mont Royal, rue St Denis and around provide better shopping, friendlier cafes and a real insight into the true heart of the city.

Leave metro Sherbrooke and walk north up St Denis, or station Mont Royal and walk East/West along rue Mont Royal and then South down St Denis

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Montreal vegetarian restaurant - a vast, imaginative & varied selection of soups, salads & hot dishes all based on fresh & tasty ingredients.

Self service from buffet, sold by weight. I paid only 10 CDN for a massive & delicious plateful.

In Montreal’s Latin Quarter, décor features revealed red brick walls, decorative fireplaces, wood floors and tables.

1720 St-Denis Street (between De Maisonneuve and Ontario), Montreal

Metro Berri-UQAM

Telephone: 514-845-2627
Fax: 514-845-1180
E-mail: commensal.st-denis@videotron.ca

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Hotel-Studio right in the heart of Montreal's happening plateau district.

Friendly staff, small but totally functional rooms with cooking facilities & croissants delivered to your door each morning.

A great area to explore on foot, you are straight out of the door into the best shops & cafés in Montréal, an easy walk downhill to old Montréal or nearby Parc Mont Royal.

Secure online booking with rates from 80 CDN per night excluding taxes.

www.annemasoeuranne.com

4119 Saint-Denis
Montréal, H2W 2M7
Tel: 001-514-281-3187
Toll free from USA & Canada: 1-877-281-3187
Fax: 514-281-1601
Email: infos@annemasoeuranne.com

On Saint Denis, between rues Rachel & Duluth, 5 minutes walk from metros Mont-Royal (marginally closer) & Sherbrooke.

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Don't go to Montreal. Go to another city with happy, friendly people who speak English and with whom you will have a good vacation. The majority of Quebecois do not like English or Anglophones. They have language police who enforce French as the primary language for shop signs or any signs. The laughable thing is that they speak french execrably! Their pronuncation will make you squirm. They have spent the last 40 years trying to break away from Canada and they are still trying. They were beaten on the Plains of Quebec in the 18th century and have not gotten over it yet! Their car licence plates say "Je me souviens"!

They will not let you speak French to them - not even to order from a French menu! Their weather is the worst. You get your balls frozen off in the winter and bitten off in the summer (by bugs which crawl up your long trouser legs). I have never felt so blah about any city as I did in Montreal. It did nothing whatsoever for me. What a bunch of sore losers. Don't waste your hard earned money or precious vacation time.

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Great lounge-cum-restaurant on the the trendy Saint-Laurent Boulevard, with good food and equally well-made drinks. I recommend the martinis. Perfect place to kick off the evening while waiting for the clubs to get started.

3515 St Laurent Blvd; tel: (514) 842 0220

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An Ethiopian restaurant on the awesome street of St. Denis in the Plateau region. The best thing to get is the injera with a variety plate of different dishes. You get to eat it with your hands! They provide you with warm napkins at the table to wash up with before and after. It's very special, and also delicious.

3435 St Denis, Montréal, QC H2X 2L1;
tel: (514) 281-0111;
métro: Sherbrooke
www.abiata.com

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Shopping Malls are huge in Canada — in more than one sense of the word. When it drops below -30C in winter these vast retail temples (Centre Eaton downtown has everything) are the only places to be.

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Free (although donations are encouraged and special shows cost) art gallery just west of downtown. Includes artefacts, textiles, and many schools of paintings, with good groups of Canadian and Quebecois pieces.

Jean-Noël Desmarais Pavilion
: 1380 Sherbrooke Street West;
Michal and Renata Hornstein Pavilion and Liliane and David M. Stewart Pavilion: 1379 Sherbrooke Street Pavilion;
tel: (514) 285-2000;
www.mmfa.qc.ca

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This is a set of two little Chilean restaurants that have particularly good empanadas. Many varieties, including several delicious vegetarian options. Also serves nachos, quesadillas, tacos, and burritos - quality ingredients and sauces.

152 Napoléon; tel: (514) 286-6075;
64 Marie-Anne W; tel: (514) 982-9212

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This is a part of the National Film Board of Canada centre in the Latin Quarter. It's a big room with comfortable individual viewing stations, where, for a very cheap price, you can choose to watch films/shorts/newsreels/anything from the NFBs entire selection for a few hours.

1564 Rue St Denis; tel: (514) 496-6887 www.nfb.ca/atonf/events/cinerobotheque.php?lg=en

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Fantastic resto with great poutine selection, as well as a summer garden patio. Their poutine has both quantity and quality. Either eat in, or get it to take out to eat in nearby Parc la Fontaine.

994 Rue Rachel, at Parc la Fontaine;
tel: (514) 525-2415

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Drink Boréale Rousse, one of the great beers of the world. St Ambroise or Griffon blond are pretty tasty too.

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Maison des Bagels on St Viateur is open 24/7 and the bagels are the best in the world - wonderful with Liberté cream cheese (eat your heart out Philadelphia) and a smoked salmon mousse.

263 St-Viateur west near du Parc ave
Metro station: Place-des-Arts then take the 80 bus north
Tel: (514) 276-8044

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It's best to avoid the unimaginative side of downtown, Peel and McGill, Ste Catherine are worth visiting once but it is like doing Oxford Street and is mainly Anglophone as well as expensive.

Try Plâteau Mont Royal and the streets to Parc LaFontaine; Rachel to Boulevard St Laurent, St Denis, Duluth; Laurier and then come up to Mile End, Rue Bernard and St Viateur to meet the real Québecois Montréalais.

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I moved over to Montreal from London in 2004 to discover that, three evenings later it was already -10.

It took me some months and, having now lived in three quite different parts of the Île, I would rather be here now than in London. The pace is slower, you don't chase your tail so much, but there is still enough to do that you would not find anywhere outside of only a handful of British cities. Here, you have great cuisine and stretches
of restaurants, people are accommodating and informal and the city is geared up for the people who live here. The streets are cleaned twice a week outside of winter; the parks are there to be enjoyed, the swimming pools are usually free - so too are the ice rinks. It's a great place to bring up your children (my son is one).

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Schwartz's serves the best smoked meat sandwich in the world. Go to this Hebrew delicatessen for smoked meat in an old-school deli atmosphere.

3895 Saint-Laurent Boulevard;
tel: (514) 842 4813
www.schwartzsdeli.com

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A small place where you can buy freshly-made bagels and then sit out on the street benches to eat them. Forget fat, spongy bagels; get the real ones here - thinner, and more chewy. Don't miss the ones with bits of orange peel in them.

71 Avenue Fairmount Ouest; tel: (514) 272-0667;
Nearest metro: Laurier

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This restaurant right near the Parc Mont-Royal specialises in custom sandwiches, and showcases local photography, and a certain local ambience.

3990 St Urbain (corner Duluth);
tel: (514) 842 3110;
www.santropol.com

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