Some years back I had the best meal I've ever eaten in North America in this restaurant in the Old Port section of Montreal. It’s impossible to forget French standards like Beef Wellington, but there were also specialities like a mussels-with-crepe dish that came with a perfectly composed cream sauce - le pannequet Ostendaise (pancakes as served in Ostend). Food and wine and pleasant service flowed generously and the cost of the meal was meagre by New York City standards. Best of all, there was no intrusive, overbearing service by out-of-work stockbrokers or wannabe actors or models as in Gotham. But caution: restaurants change hands - or they just change, period. Check with a local gourmand first.

410 Place Jacques Cartier;
tel: (514) 866-3471;
www.st-amable.com/menu.htm

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