The Montréal Canadiens are ice hockey's most storied team - they hold the NHL record for most Stanley Cup wins, have the NHL's largest arena (the Bell Centre, right in the middle of town) and some of its most passionate fans - especially fervent because of their famous team's unique status as the only Francophone hockey club in the otherwise Anglophone league. The Canadiens haven't won the lot for a while now, but the franchise's size and support base still means every home game is a sell-out and an occasion in and of itself.

Going to see a game offers a glimpse into a genuine Montréal and Canadian obsession. The streets around the Bell Centre fill with families dressed in Habs' (the team nickname) gear and thousands more Québecois tune into the games in sports bars and restaurants. It's also exciting - games are fast-moving and often full of incidental violence, which gets the crowd going just as much as goals and great saves.

As you'd expect from North American sports, it's a fairly family-oriented affair. Don't expect a UK football-style "atmosphere" and do anticipate lots of national anthems, audience participation and glitzy advertising on the big screens and scrolling hoardings that ring the rink.

Games against old rivals the Toronto Maple Leafs and the Boston Bruins are especially tense.

The length of the hockey season and the sheer number and frequency of games means finding a game while you're in town and getting a ticket or several shouldn't be too difficult, despite the team's popularity.

Those who like to organise things in advance can check the schedule and buy tickets online at the Canadiens website: www.canadiens.com/eng/index.cfm
Alternatively, ticket agencies and posh hotels in Montréal itself can almost always help you out closer to game-time.

The Bell Centre has its own website, with details of its location and amenities: www.centrebell.ca/eng/arena/index.cfm

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Because it's the best and the coolest and the classiest local jazz club in Montréal. Good menu with great ambience; jazz is always good, and always full of locals. Generally a cover charge, depending on the band, so you'll be among the non-student scene of the city. Size is fairly small, so while it's great to have a conversation and be able to see the musicians' actual fingers play (and both of these at the same time), you will risk not getting a seat if you show up after 22h30.

1254 Mackay (cross Ste. Catherines ouest);
tel: (514) 931 6808
www.upstairsjazz.com

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