In Montreal as an anglophone it is tempting to stick to Ste Catherines and St Laurent, but it is definitely worth your while overcoming a fear of the language barrier and heading to the French side. The areas of Rue Mont Royal, rue St Denis and around provide better shopping, friendlier cafes and a real insight into the true heart of the city.

Leave metro Sherbrooke and walk north up St Denis, or station Mont Royal and walk East/West along rue Mont Royal and then South down St Denis

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Shopping Malls are huge in Canada — in more than one sense of the word. When it drops below -30C in winter these vast retail temples (Centre Eaton downtown has everything) are the only places to be.

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Independent bookstore that's become a cornerstone of the McGill area since 1975. Standing (ongoing) vote as one of the "Best of" in Montréal by the Montréal Mirror, since 1999. Possibly earlier. Knowledgeable staff, Canadian fiction, rare books.

Oh, and it's right near two of Montréal's independent repertory movie houses, Cinéma du Parc and Excentris.

469 Rue Milton (cross Durocher);
tel: (514) 845 5640;
www.vehiculepress.com/montreal/urban_word.html

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Less chic than Marche Atwater, but bigger, cheaper and with much better street food. Shops include the fantastically named "Qui L'ait Cru?" for cheese.

7075 Avenue Casgrain; tel: (514) 277 1379;
Metro: Jean Talon, then walk 3 or 4 blocks west (along Jean Talon) and one south;
www.madeinmtl.com/main.php?langval=2&rdv=179

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This boutique has its roots in Toronto and basically recycles clothes. They take old sweaters, jeans and other items and turn them into ultra-cool, modern creations, each one unique. Prices range from $30 - $250. The staff are friendly and they often have really great sales.

4832 Boulevard St-Laurent;
tel: 1 (514) 499 9898;
www.preloved.ca

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Casa del Popolo is the very best venue for new music, and a lovely place to have a beer and some veggie food in the afternoon. (Try the back garden.)

And Dante Hardware, on Rue Dante near Jean Talon Market, is something you'll only find in North America: a store that is half fine cookware, half hunting rifles! Not to be missed.

Casa del Popolo: 4873 Boulevard St-Laurent; tel: (514) 284 0122;
www.casadelpopolo.com;
Dante Hardware: 6851 St Dominique (on the corner of Rue Dante); tel: (514) 271 2057

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Marche Atwater is a market selling a wide range of fresh fruit, veg, cheese, bread, cakes and other tempting foodstuffs. It is housed in a big old art deco building by the Lachine Canal, with many stalls outside in the summer, some of which also sell flowers and shrubs. Well worth stopping by if you're in the area for a cheap and tasty lunch or just to stock up if you're self-catering.

Avenue Atwater, St. Henri;
Metro: Lionel-Groulx.

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