Canada
One of my favourite places in Toronto to go for afternoon tea is the King Edward Hotel. A tradition since 1903, the afternoon tea menu changes depending on the season, and the Nutcracker Tea, offered until the end of December, is not to be missed.
From 2:30pm to 5:30pm every day (except December 24, 25 and 26), tea is served at Victoria’s Restaurant in the hotel. The Nutcracker Afternoon tea is CDN $39 per person and offers delicate finger sandwiches, some of which are duck confit and smoked turkey, gorgeous pastries, including the mincemeat crumble tart and finally, my favourite, warm scones served with imported Devonshire cream and homemade strawberry preserves. And of course, there’s the tea. Only in December, you can choose the Nutcracker tea, which is infused with hazelnuts and vanilla or the Gingerbread House tea, a black tea with ginger root, nutmeg, vanilla, licorice, cinnamon and allspice.
Le Royal Méridien King Edward Hotel
37 King Street East
Toronto, Canada
+ 1 416 863 4106
Google map: bit.ly/Sob896
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Food trucks have become very popular in Toronto over the last year, with over 12 vehicles
located anywhere in the city at any given time. And while they are all the rage, locations are often announced at the last minute.
The best way to find out where any of the city’s gourmet food trucks are located is to visit
www.torontofoodtrucks.ca, or follow the trucks on Twitter via @ontfoodtrucks.
Items served from these trucks are not strictly hamburgers and hotdogs. Options include fish tacos, Southern barbeque, brisket sandwiches, eggplant manicotti, lobster, and empanadas, just to name a few.
There’s lots of ethnic food to be had, including the Blue Donkey Streatery, specializing in
Greek cuisine, with items like souvlaki, gyros, fried calamari and feta fries, all under CDN $10; Gourmet Gringos offers tacos, arepas and homemade empanadas; and Fidel Gastro sells unique items such as the Sloppy Jose: cola braised brisket with home style baked beans and a roasted corn aioli, Sgt. Slather: BBQ pulled pork, guacamole cream and crushed tortilla chips and Cheekita Cheekita: beef cheek with pineapple salsa.
www.torontofoodtrucks.ca
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The Danforth, a popular neighbourhood in the city’s east end, is named after the east-west arterial road that crosses through the city.
On the western end of Danforth Road, between Broadview and Chester, the area consists of health stores, juice bars, yoga studios and many shops devoted to naturopathic medicine and holistic healing. Known as The Carrot Common, www.carrotcommon.com, this shopping area consists of an organic grocer, vegetarian food emporium, juice bar, wholistic dispensary and other shops selling non-GMO and environmentally safe products. Also in the vicinity, there are some great restaurants, pubs and clothing stores.
Going further east, the area between Chester and Pape is referred to as Toronto’s “Greektown” with plenty of fruit markets, loads of authentic Greek restaurants to suit any budget or taste, specializing in either grilled fish or meat, several bakeries showcasing baklava and spanakopita in their windows, as well as lounges and bars that are open very late.
And finally, between Pape and Woodbine, you will find a mix of Italian bakeries, Asian grocers, some more pubs, and a large assortment of great North African restaurants, all run by local families. My favourite Ethiopian restaurant for breakfast, lunch or dinner, is Lalibela, www.lalibelaethiopianrestaurant.com. I highly recommend the coffee ceremony after any meal. For Moroccan, I prefer Walima Cafe, www.walimacafe.com, which offers great tagine dishes and incredible appetizers.
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Those who have visited Southeast Asia know how much fun the night markets are: one can spend hours strolling through the closed off streets, shopping, eating, browsing and catching some live entertainment.
Toronto’s oldest Chinatown – there are six in the Greater Toronto Area – is hosting the second annual Toronto Chinatown Night Market, giving visitors and locals an opportunity to experience a traditional Asian night market without spending the exorbitant airfare to get there.
The free event runs from July 20th until September 7th, 2012, from 5pm until 10pm every Friday and Saturday night. The area where the market takes place (Huron Street, south of D’Arcy Street) will be closed to vehicles between 3pm and 12am.
Street vendors sell everything from handicrafts to toys and household items. There is fortune telling – both English and Chinese, as well as games, giveaways, and music. This year, the focus of the event is food, with many food stalls set up, as well as street food eating contests.
www.chinatownbia.com
Google map: bit.ly/P8MIgU
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Ah, Nadege. This patisserie is truly a little piece of France in Toronto. I adore this shop. Upon entering, your senses are inundated with the smells of freshly baked croissants and bread, your eyes feast on the beautiful array of pastries, tarts, cakes, buttery croissants, a few sandwiches and various flavours of macarons including salted caramel, rose, pistachio and mojito.
Nadege is also the name of the owner: a pastry chef, chocolatier, confectioner, ice cream maker, traiteur, artist and baker, with experience running Michelin award-winning restaurants in France.
The space has a beautiful outdoor patio, where you can enjoy one of many delicious sandwiches, including smoked turkey with cranberry sauce, or even a pastry with coffee or tea.
This is the place to go to for a gourmet indulgence. Desserts and sandwiches may be a little pricey, but worth every single penny.
Nadege is open every day, beginning at 8AM.
www.nadege-patisserie.com
780 Queen Street West, Toronto, ON
+1 416 368 2009
Google map: bit.ly/R81tS6
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When I’m looking to have an extra special brunch, one of my favourite spots is Dessert Trends. Here, the food is made using high quality ingredients and the presentation is just as important as taste. I’ve had everything on the brunch menu, with all items being delicious and memorable.
For meat lovers, the house made fennel and pork sausage with scrambled egg on cornbread, balsamic onion compote and a side salad is sure to please. On days when I’m not so ravenous, I go for the lemon dill scramble which comes with a buttery brioche, smoked salmon and salad. The salade nicoise is also a lovely choice, especially if I’m brunching later in the day; it comes with seared ahi tuna, fingerling potatoes, eggs, olives, anchovies, French beans and a champagne vinaigrette.
The real reason I come here, though, is for the desserts. The master pastry chef, Donald
Duong, is a classically trained French chef who has won numerous awards, having made cakes for the Queen, the Pope, the Canadian Prime Minister and several other dignitaries. The desserts and cakes are all works of art that are as delicious as they are beautiful. Rows and rows of lovely creations line the glass counter: mini cheesecakes, tarts, cakelets, I can never resist them and have also tasted most of these creations. Happily, though, different desserts rotate every few weeks, so I always get to try something new.
If you’re not able to make it for weekend brunch, I recommend visiting this place for a great cup of coffee and a splendid dessert. Afternoon tea is now also being offered in the newly renovated space upstairs, with the mandatory fresh scones, croissants and clotted cream, as well as other delectables, like melon and prosciutto sandwiches, pineapple and watermelon gazpacho, and various petit fours.
Brunch is available on weekends, starting at 10 AM. Please note this place is closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
www.desserttrends.ca
154 Harbord Street, Toronto, ON
+1 416 916 8155
Google map: bit.ly/PlGkxo
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Torontonians, myself included, love to brunch on weekends and dining at a new venue is always a treat. That’s not so difficult to do, as the city has so many brunch options to choose from. Most recently, I tried a popular hangout in Toronto’s west end, Saving Grace, located in the city’s Little Portugal neighbourhood.
This spot is renowned for its great food as well as its famously long line-ups on the weekend. Having been forewarned, my friend and I arrived on a Saturday, a few minutes before the 10AM opening and within minutes, there were at least 10 people behind us.
Saving Grace is a very small restaurant in what used to be a residential home. The small, high- ceilinged room seats about 20 people at closely placed tables. Servers were constantly smiling and attentively serving customers in this bright and airy space with whitewashed walls and sparse décor. No one seems to mind the close quarters or long line ups, though, because this space is all about the food.
Serving brunch seven days a week, the menu consists of a variety of egg dishes, French toast, sandwiches and salads. The chalkboard on the wall always lists the specials of the day. After careful consideration and much thought, I ordered the savoury french toast, which lived up to my expectations. Made with melted Gruyere, baked apples, and caramelized onions, the flavours were spectacular and I also enjoyed the large salad that came with it. My friend ordered the pancakes with fruit, which was also a hit. Four small, dainty pancakes came served with sliced fruit and maple syrup: not too filling and just the right amount. The freshly squeezed juices were also delicious: the pink grapefruit is not overly tart, and the pear and ginger is perfectly refreshing on a hot summer morning.
I was seriously impressed with the food and am already planning my next appearance, but I haven’t decided whether I’ll have the Old White Cheddar Sandwich, which comes with bacon, tomato, avocado, lettuce and rosemary mayo on a toasted whole wheat raisin bread or the Rajasthani scrambled eggs with spicy red onions, tomatoes, chickpea masala, and spicy paratha.
Saving Grace is open for brunch at 10AM on weekends, and 9AM weekdays.
907 Dundas Street West, Toronto, ON
+1 416 703 7368
Google map: bit.ly/PrM358
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Hot, spicy, sweet and sour food – try it all at this year’s 15th annual Hot & Spicy Festival, taking place from July 20 – 22, 2012. Serving up diverse flavours from around the world, entertain your tastebuds with food paired with samplings of the hot sounds of the region.
Highlights include an International Chef Competition, featuring a Taco Takedown where
each chef serves their own individual dish - purchase a sample platter of these creations and determine yourself who the winner should be; the Red Hot Market offers some of the spiciest hot sauces available; learn about the slow food movement and how to smoke fish at the “Hot & Spicy” smokehouse; or attend one of the canning workshops and the farmer’s market.
www.harbourfrontcentre.com/summer/hotandspicy/
Harbourfront Centre, 235 Queen’s Quay West
Toronto, Canada
Google map: bit.ly/L60lak
How to get there: Take either the 509 Exhibition or 510 Spadina streetcar west from inside
Union Station (to exit from the subway platform by the correct stairs, look for the Harbourfront
signs). Both streetcars stop directly in front of Harbourfront Centre.
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Beginning July 12 until August 30, 2012, a variety of restaurants – American, Mexican, Peruvian and Thai, among others – will serve food at Nathan Phillips Square for $7 CDN or less.
Located in front of Toronto City Hall, join Torontonians as they leave their office towers for the lunch hour to grab items such as pulled pork sandwiches, empanadas, oysters, jerk chicken – you get the idea – all while taking in free live music featuring Canadian artists playing music from around the world.
How to get there: Take the subway to Queen (Yonge line) or Osgoode (University line) and walk on Queen St.
www.toronto.ca/special_events/thursdays/2012/
100 Queen Street West
Google map: bit.ly/LI6yPV
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Like most Toronto foodies, I look forward to Summerlicious, a celebration spotlighting some of Toronto's best restaurants, where you can sample a wide variety of original and delicious cuisine through three-course prix fixe menus. Available at over 180 of Toronto's restaurants, like its counterpart, Winterlicious, this event offers very large discounts from the usual pricing, with lunch ranging from $15, $20 or $30 and dinner for $25, $35, and $45.
Summerlicious runs from July Friday, July 6 until Sunday, July 22.
Several new restaurants this year are sure to draw a crowd, especially Colborne Lane, www.colbornelane.com and La Societe, www.lasociete.ca, both great spots for food and value.
There is usually a mad rush to secure reservations, especially in the evenings, so call soon.
To review the list of restaurants, menus, and their locations, and then book online, click the link: www.dine.to/toronto_summerlicious_restaurants.php
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The Beaches, known to locals as “The Beach” is a great neighbourhood to visit all year-round, but especially more so in the summer.
The boardwalk, stretching for hours, has some of the best views of Lake Ontario, with buskers and artists selling their goods on hot summer days. Located 15 minutes via streetcar east of the downtown core, the area’s main strip is Queen Street East, which has antique shops as well as specialty and one-of-a-kind boutiques, restaurants, cafes, and pubs. Visit Licks Burgers, www.lickshomeburgers.com, located at 1962 Queen Street East for a quick bite. A local institution for the over 30 years, I’ve been eating burgers and ice cream here for decades and am never disappointed.
The boardwalk goes through four different beaches, two of which are certified for cleanliness and swimming: Kew Beach and Woodbine Beach are always filled with sunbathers as soon as summer hits. I’ve taken many long walks on the trails, and on a few occasions, I’ve walked from the east end of the city to the west end, in about roughly four hours.
There are parks near the boardwalk as well, with trails, a playground, water park, boat launch and a marina.
From Queen or Osgoode subway station, take the Queen streetcar 501 east.
www.lickshomeburgers.com
1960 Queen Street East, M4L 1H8
Google map: bit.ly/Ly549l
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Dined at this excellent restaurant just last evening, after attending an afternoon play at Stratford Shakespeare Festival. During dinner, I found out that it is currently their 35th year (they’re a seasonal restaurant). Cuisine, service and decor was noteworthy, concise, well executed; better than any fine dining restaurant to be found in Toronto, trust me! If you are going to Stratford in Canada to see theatre, then you should try to dine at Rundles. I’d go to Stratford again just to dine at this temple of Canadian gastronomy.
www.rundlesrestaurant.com
9 Cobourg St, Stratford, Ontario, Canada, N5A 3E4
+1 519 271 6442
Google map: bit.ly/LjOZOT
Centro is the place to go for imported Italian foods. This family-run shop has been in the Corso Italia neighbourhood for over 30 years, and it’s one of my mum’s favourite places to shop. Upon entering, you will see an enormous array of cheeses hanging from the ceiling, a deli counter stretching the entire length of the store, and shelves with cookies, crackers, pasta, coffee, olive oil and other delights from Italy.
While some of the cheese and deli sold is locally produced, most of the products are imported directly from Italy. The cheese sold here is some of the finest. My mum will only buy her beloved parmigiano reggiano here and I really love the taleggio and gorgonzola, always fresh and tasty.
The deli meats are great too, and you can have a panino, or sandwich, made right before your eyes. The lady behind the counter can fill up a freshly baked bun with whatever your heart desires: prosciutto, mortadella, marinated eggplants, salami, etc.
My mum and I always try to get here before lunch, so we can head to the back of the store where there is a very modest dining area serving some of the best homemade Italian food. The place is usually filled to capacity, so getting here just before noon is a must. Whether it’s a veal sandwich with tomato sauce and roasted red peppers with mozarella, two sausages with rapini or dandelion on the side, lasagna with salad, homemade ravioli, and even Italian wedding soup, there is no skimping here. Portions are generous, the food is superb and the price is great - lunch will cost roughly $10 or so.
www.centrotrattoria.com
1224 St. Clair Avenue West (near Dufferin)
Toronto, Canada
+1 416 656 8111
Google map: bit.ly/GPtJ3g
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Open every day of the week, Tre Mari has been in business since 1960, offering Italian pastries, cookies, and bread, which are baked non-stop throughout the day. The bakery also features a full service hot table with lunch and dinner specials such as pasta, veal, sausage and meatball sandwiches, most plates for less than $10. The barista makes a great coffee, too.
Whenever I visit the bakery, I always follow the same pattern, taking a quick look around the bakery for an interesting find, and then stopping in front of the large display case, admiring the delicious confections. On my last visit, there were cannoli – crispy, light golden shells filled with a smooth and sweet ricotta cheese filling, millefeuille – ever so thin and light pastry layered with thick, creamy custard and icing sugar on top, lobster tails – deep fried pastry goodness in the shape of a lobster tail, and filled with crème fraiche, and chocolate marzipan logs, using a chocolate that is more bitter than sweet, which blends nicely with the almond. On this particular visit, I was torn between the cannoli and the chocolate marzipan, so I bought both. I sat down in the café and ordered an espresso, thick and earthy and not too strong. Pure heaven.
There are other Italian bakeries in the neighbourhood, some of them a bit more high end with fancy espresso machines and tablecloths, but I love Tre Mari for its simplicity and old world charm. There’s something really nice about sitting in this bakery, watching generations from the same family – grannies and grandkids – enjoying food and their time together.
www.tremaribakery.ca
1311 Saint Clair Avenue West
Toronto, Canada
+1 416 654 8960
Google map: bit.ly/GINYVa
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The Chef’s House is the first restaurant of its kind in Canada. It’s run by the famous George Brown College Chef School, with students training to cook, bake and serve the public in an open-concept kitchen. Housed in a 3,200 square foot heritage building, the 70-seat space offers daily lunch and dinner menus, food and wine workshops, as well as special food events.
Everything in the restaurant is made from scratch, including breads, salad dressings,
condiments, and ice cream. The menu changes every few weeks, all while taking advantage of local produce and the best available seasonal ingredients. The restaurant promotes local, sustainable food and is an advocate for the Slow Food Movement.
www.thechefshouse.com
215 King Street East, Toronto, Canada
+1 416 415 2260
Google map: bit.ly/zI4cV8
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St. John’s Bakery provides much more than delicious, organic bread. This business is
owned and operated by St. John’s The Compassionate Mission. With strong values and a focus on using only organic, natural and mostly local ingredients, St. John's provides training opportunities and employment to people struggling with poverty, mental illness and other issues.
While the bakery specializes in handmade organic sourdough breads made in the traditional French method, other types of bread, such as rye, baguettes and spelt are also made. All sweets – scones, tarts, croissants, cookies, and cakes – are also handmade from scratch.
My favourite is the olive boule. This round sourdough loaf is crusty on the outside and soft in the inside, and packed with pieces of black olive and hints of cilantro. I’m also a big fan of the rosemary breadsticks, but if I don’t get there by Saturday morning around 9am, they’re all gone.
St. John’s bread is very well-known and their products can be found all over Toronto at organic food suppliers and farmers markets.
www.stjohnsbakery.com
153 Broadview Avenue, Toronto, Canada
+1 416 850 7413
Google map: bit.ly/ArMoP8
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My all-time favourite Thai restaurant in the city is Salad King. I started eating here well over 20 years ago when it was a tiny kitchen with two tables, mismatched chairs and counter service. Still going strong and always packed, the food here is still exceptionally delicious and affordable. What has changed is the crowd: no longer devoted exclusively to university students, it now caters to young professionals, families, and drop-in fans from across the city. Don’t let the line up scare you, be patient – it’s well worth it.
The restaurant is full of energy and may be a bit louder than the usual resto, but this is all part of the experience. Seating is at communal tables and you can even ask your server for items not on the menu, which has a spice scale from mild to 20 chilis. I once ate next to a fellow who was eating his green curry with 11 chilis and he couldn’t stop crying. My spice scale is 4 chilis.
www.saladking.com
340 Yonge Street, Toronto, ON M5B 1R8
+ 1 416 593 0333
Google map: bit.ly/zmFLe5
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Winterlicious, and it’s cousin Summerlicious, are two extremely popular food festivals held yearly in Toronto. This year, Winterlicious runs from Friday, January 27 until Thursday, February 9.
During the event, major restaurants from across the city offer a special three-course fixed price menu, some at very large discounts from their usual pricing. Ranging from $15, $20 or $30 for lunch and $25, $35, and $45 for dinner, the meal includes a starter, an entrée and dessert, with drinks and gratuity extra.
This event has grown from 35 restaurants participating in its inaugural year 10 years ago, to 175 participating this year. Reservations are accepted beginning January 12 – make them early to avoid disappointment. In fact, be armed with three or four restaurant choices as you may not get your first pick.
Depending on which reservations you choose, this event can be a great value, as some of the restaurants participating have starters costing near $25. My favourites – for food and value – are Auberge du Pommier, Canoe, Kultura, and Mistura.
wx.toronto.ca/inter/se/restaurants.nsf/Winterlicious
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This free event showcases outdoor entertainment, including carolers, brass band concerts, choirs and European folklore dancing. The Distillery District is a historic area with brick-lined streets filled with cafes, restaurants, and shops, all housed in Victorian-era industrial buildings.
The entire district is decorated and lit up for the season, including a 45-foot White Spruce tree with 18,000 light ornaments, located in the main square. There are endless things to do for people of all ages. Kids can ride the Ferris wheel, visit the Reindeer Zoo, walk through a fairy tell forest maze, learn about Christmas traditions all over the world, and make ornaments and stocking stuffers. Adults can try a variety of specialty beers, mulled wines and Christmas cocktails, as well as shop for hundreds of unique and local handicraft products, as well as
Christmas merchandise and specialty baked goods. There is also plenty of “street” food to be had: hot chestnuts, grilled sausages, and warm pretzels with artisan mustard. This is the perfect place to get you in the mood for the Christmas holidays.
www.torontochristmasmarket.com
Distillery Historic District, Toronto, Canada
+1 416 364 1177
Google map: bit.ly/s4vwiP
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Most Torontonians love their coffee and donuts and the place to go is Tim Hortons, also known as “Tim’s” or “Timmies”. This chain of restaurants, found every few blocks throughout Toronto and its suburbs, is as Canadian as the maple leaf.
Line-ups in the morning are usually right out the door at most locations, as a decent cup of coffee and a breakfast sandwich won’t put a dent in your pocketbook. The coffee is actually quite good, for a fast-food joint, and they have other options besides donuts: tea biscuits, sandwiches, wraps, and soups. The restaurant prides itself on their “always fresh” policy and their coffee is served within 20 minutes of brewing.
Founded in 1964 by a Canadian hockey player, Tim Hortons is Canada’s largest fast food
service with over 3,500 stores in Canada. It also has locations in the US and many Canadian Forces bases, including Kandahar.
The most famous of its donuts are the “Timbits”, donut holes available in various flavours: Dutchie (donut with raisins, covered in a sugary glaze), Honey Dip, Chocolate, Jelly Filled, Glazed, and Apple Fritter.
Donut flavours vary from store to store, and they always have special flavours throughout the year: red glazed donuts for Canada Day and the Strawberry Bloom donut, a bloom-shaped donut, dipped in vanilla fondant with a strawberry filling and topped with strawberry-flavoured sprinkles.
To experience true Canadiana culture, every visitor to Toronto must step into a Tim Horton’s at least once.
www.timhortons.com
* Giulia is our Been there local for Toronto. You can see her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/places/canada/toronto/index.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/GiuliaFalsetti
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