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Vancouver at night
Photo: Tourism Vanc

Pacific delights
From the moment the plane comes over the Rockies, I get a bit misty eyed. Vancouver is an incredibly beautiful city, bordered by mountains and surrounded by water. Western Canada's largest metropolitan city, it is as culturally diverse as it is laid back. Scoring consistently in the worldwide rankings of quality of life, its consistency is richly deserved - it is a city that makes you want to be active, but also to slow down and breathe a little deeper.

Vancouver is an outdoor city, whatever the weather. Even on a rainy day there is still loads to offer; head to Vancouver Public Library and watch the world go by in the atrium, wander around the Vancouver Art Gallery on Robson Street or just relax with a coffee at Caffe Artigiano. Take a long walk (or run) around the seawall at Stanley Park, hire a car and head up to Whistler along the Sea to Sky highway for breathtaking views, or just spend the day meandering around the colourful markets of Granville Island.

Now negotiations over the NHL deadlock are complete, you can't leave without watching a Vancouver Canucks home game either live at GM Place, or across the road at the Shark Club over draft beers and hot wings.
Best view
Cypress Mountain on the North Shore
Best at sunset, Cypress Mountain offers an incredible view over the whole of Vancouver and the Georgia Strait. Beautiful in the summer months, although in winter there is the added bonus of seeing it from the slopes.

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Best thing to do for free
Get outside and head to the beaches
You'll be spoiled for choice. See what's available at
www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/parks/rec/beaches.

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Where to watch the world go by
Milestones, English Bay
Head onto the patio and order a round of their famous Bellinis to enjoy with the fantastic view of English Bay, the sunsets and the local thoroughfare.

1210 Denman Street; Tel: 662 3431; www.milestonesrestaurants.com

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Nighttime hangout
Yaletown Brew Pub
I love the Yaletown Brew Pub for pre-club drinks. A favourite haunt for locals, good food and good beer at a reasonable price.

1111 Mainland Street; Tel: 681 2739; www.markjamesgroup.com/restbrew/yaletown/yaletown.html

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Cultural highlight
UBC Museum of Anthropology
The building alone is worth the trip, designed by Arthur Erickson and based on traditional northern Northwest Coast post and beam structures. Check out the full scale Totem Poles and outdoor Haida Houses. Adults $9, concessions $7 and children under 6 free.

6393 N.W. Marine Drive; Tel: 604.822.5087; www.moa.ubc.ca

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Bring back
Okanagan wines
British Columbia is home to about 80 wineries and is rapidly gaining a reputation for producing excellent varieties. Try Quails Gate Riesling ice wine ($54.99) or Mission Hill 2002 Occulus ($39.99).

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Leave there
Souvenir plaques
The wooden plaques with a Canadian coin and a brass beaver. Also avoid any t-shirt that says "Fukeneh".

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Time for love
Seaside sunsets
Head down to Spanish Bank or Kits Beach to watch the sunset.

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Best-kept secret (till now)
Hon's Wonton House
A reasonably priced and tasty Chinese restaurant featuring two kitchens: one vegetarian and one not. Unfortunately there is no alcohol licence. The potstickers are highly recommended!

1339 Robson Street; Tel: 685 0871

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The thing to eat
Sushi, sushi and more sushi
Head to Tojo's (www.tojos.com) on West Broadway for the city's very best. For the more budget conscious, Tsunami on Robson Street has Vancouver's only floating sushi bar. The quality of the sushi is fantastic, but be prepared to queue for lunch.

Tojos, 777 West Broadway; Tel: 872 8050. Tsunami. 1025 Robson St; Tel: 687 8744.

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Green space
Lynn Canyon
My favourite by far is Lynn Canyon on the North Shore. Spend a day or an afternoon hiking around second growth rainforest, and be sure to include a trip over the suspension bridge.

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Best ride
Aquabus
Take the Aquabus (www.aquabus.bc.ca), Vancouver's commuter ferry service from Granville Island. A relatively cheap way of getting from one side of False Creek to the other with the added bonus of a scenic river cruise. Beautiful at night!

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Keep the kids happy
Science World
A landmark from Expo 86, the "Golf Ball" is now home to Vancouver's Science World. There are five permanent galleries in the centre, as well as ALCAN Omnimax theatre, a feature gallery for special exhibitions and Centre Stage for live science shows.

1455 Quebec Street; Tel: 443 7443; www.scienceworld.bc.ca

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Escape the crowds
Indian Arm
Head out of the city and spend the day kayaking in Indian Arm.

2156 Banbury Road, North Vancouver; Tel: 929 2268; www.deepcovekayak.com

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The film to see before I go
Hollywood North
Vancouver's reputation as Hollywood North is richly deserved, and as the third largest film production area in North America has provided locations for large and small budget films since the 1930's. Though not the most challenging of films, the X-Men series and The Fabulous Four were shot in and around Vancouver and give a great snapshot of the city.

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... and the novel to read
City of Glass: Douglas Coupland's Vancouver
As a former Vancouverite, Douglas Coupland’s City of Glass made me homesick from the get-go; the pages are full of beautiful and haunting images interspersed with his musings on all Vancouver has to offer from art, architecture, design, landmarks and film making. His is a satirical journey, full of bizarre and charming reminiscing, and cleverly using each letter of the alphabet as a tour of his beloved city.

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Where to eat (budget)
The Edge Café
My breakfast haunt when I was studying just up the road, The Edge Café has since been taken over and refurbished. The emphasis on good, fresh fast food is still apparent and the staff are as friendly as ever.

191 Smithe Street; 604 681-4347

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Where to eat (moderate)
The Red Door
Pan Asian cuisine based on traditional recipes and using the principles of wok hay, the food here is fantastic and the service impeccable. They don't take reservations, but there is a bar where you can have a seat and a drink beforehand. Try the Red Door Sweet Chili Chicken or the Shaking Beef.

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Where to eat (posh)
C Restaurant
Amazing food and service. The emphasis is not just on the food but on the whole experience of dining, from the design of the restaurant to the service to the wine list. Try the Octopus bacon and Pan Seared Queen Charlotte Halibut. One word of advice - don't be shy to ask for wine recommendations.

1600 Howe Street; Tel: 681 1164; www.crestaurant.com

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Where to stay (budget)
YWCA
Vancouver's YWCA is clean, cheap and best of all, central. From the Y you're only a few minutes walk from Robson Street and the West End.

733 Beatty Street; Tel: 895 5830; www.ywcahotel.com/explore/rooms.html

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Where to stay (moderate)
The Century Plaza
Only a 10 minute walk from the city centre, the Century Plaza's rooms are spacious and clean and great rates are available during the week. Out of town suburbanites use it as a base to crash after a night out.

1015 Burrard Street; Tel: 687 0575; www.century-plaza.com

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Where to stay (posh)
The Sylvia Hotel
One of Vancouver's more beautiful heritage buildings. The views from the front rooms are amazing.

1154 Gilford Street; Tel: 681 9321

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Find out what's on
The Georgia Straight
Pick up a free copy of The Georgia Straight (www.straight.com) from locations across the city. The Vancouver Sun Friday edition also has a great 'Arts and Life' section.

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Get there from the airport
Airport transfer: Taxi
The best way to get downtown is to get a cab, which is approximately $26. Alternatively you can catch the 'Airporter' coach for around $12 which will take you directly downtown or to the ferry terminal to Vancouver Island.

www.yvrairporter.com

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