Riding in the Torres del Paine national park, Patagonia, is exhilarating. Chilean saddles are deep and comfortable, with stirrups like buckets - giving the illusion it is impossible to fall off. The gauchos are black eyed and long haired, with knives stuck in their belts. We rode to the Milodon cave made famous by Bruce Chatwin, then to an Indian graveyard high on a mountain where condors wheeled above our heads close enough to hear the wind in their feathers. We saw an armadillo and rode past herds of guanaco, always within sight of the granite towers and horns of the Torres. We passed turquoise lakes and glaciers and raced for miles through pampas. I wanted to take all the horses I rode home with me - and a gaucho too.

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