A full day trip from Valparaiso is the hike up Cerro la Campana. Darwin made the trip up in 1834 and declared it one of the highlights of his journey. It's a 3-4 hour, reasonably tough but non-technical hike up to the top where you will be rewarded with incredible views of the Andes (including Aconcagua, the highest mountain outside of the Himalayas) on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other. Quite spectacular.

Take 2-3 litres of water, some snacks, and get there early - 9am at the latest to ensure you're first to the top. Around 8.30am the ranger will turn up and sign you in. You cannot start the climb after 10am.

Sector Granizo just past Olmue, 45 minutes drive from Valparaiso

More info and photos: corrugatedcity.blogspot.com/2008/04/cerro-la-campana-ii.html and corrugatedcity.blogspot.com/2008/04/cerro-la-campana.html

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If you want a real sense of Valparaiso's international roots, visit the three cemeteries on Cerro Panteon - Number 1, 2 and the Dissidents' Cemetery are full of British, German, Italian, Spanish, Chinese, Portuguese and other nationalities' tombs... all with beautiful sea views. A fascinating look at the history of South America's most unique city.

Cerro Panteon - from plaza Anibal Pinto take Subida Cumming and walk up.

More info: corrugatedcity.blogspot.com/search/label/Cemeteries

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Fantastic restaurant on Cerro Concepcion - all pasta and gnocchi dishes and a great wine list. Highly recommended.

Corner Templeman/Abtao

corrugatedcity.blogspot.com/2008/04/restaurant-review-pasta-e-vino.html

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Every new year, Valpo is home to the biggest and best fireworks display in South America.

Over a million people from Chile and abroad descend on the city for one huge party. Hotels need to be booked by October at the latest (prices 3-5 times normal) and reconfirmed at least 3-4 times in December to ensure they're honoured.

The fireworks used to be only in Valparaiso but now stretch 20-30km all the way along the cost to Con Con. The display lasts almost half an hour.

The best place to watch them is on Cerro Concepcion and Alegre where the police are out in force making it the safest area to be.

youtube.com/watch?v=jZnkUdb5Q34

All over Valpo

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