A full day trip from Valparaiso is the hike up Cerro la Campana. Darwin made the trip up in 1834 and declared it one of the highlights of his journey. It's a 3-4 hour, reasonably tough but non-technical hike up to the top where you will be rewarded with incredible views of the Andes (including Aconcagua, the highest mountain outside of the Himalayas) on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other. Quite spectacular.

Take 2-3 litres of water, some snacks, and get there early - 9am at the latest to ensure you're first to the top. Around 8.30am the ranger will turn up and sign you in. You cannot start the climb after 10am.

Sector Granizo just past Olmue, 45 minutes drive from Valparaiso

More info and photos: corrugatedcity.blogspot.com/2008/04/cerro-la-campana-ii.html and corrugatedcity.blogspot.com/2008/04/cerro-la-campana.html

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If you want a real sense of Valparaiso's international roots, visit the three cemeteries on Cerro Panteon - Number 1, 2 and the Dissidents' Cemetery are full of British, German, Italian, Spanish, Chinese, Portuguese and other nationalities' tombs... all with beautiful sea views. A fascinating look at the history of South America's most unique city.

Cerro Panteon - from plaza Anibal Pinto take Subida Cumming and walk up.

More info: corrugatedcity.blogspot.com/search/label/Cemeteries

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Every new year, Valpo is home to the biggest and best fireworks display in South America.

Over a million people from Chile and abroad descend on the city for one huge party. Hotels need to be booked by October at the latest (prices 3-5 times normal) and reconfirmed at least 3-4 times in December to ensure they're honoured.

The fireworks used to be only in Valparaiso but now stretch 20-30km all the way along the cost to Con Con. The display lasts almost half an hour.

The best place to watch them is on Cerro Concepcion and Alegre where the police are out in force making it the safest area to be.

youtube.com/watch?v=jZnkUdb5Q34

All over Valpo

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Ok, this is actually in Vina del Mar, Valpo's more modern sister city a ten-minute drive up the road. However, Cerro Castillo is a must visit for anyone interested in the history of this part of Chile.

The area is known as Cerro Castillo because:
-it's a hill
-there are numerous old houses built like castles

It's a quiet residential area - no cafes, no restaurants, no toilets - but is Vina's poshest address. Some of the houses are spectacular -tudor houses nestle next to gothic mansions and there are the eponymous castles dotted around the place, the most notable being the local police HQ. The Presidential Palace is also to be found on Cerro Castillo.

It was on Cerro Castillo that Chile's wealthiest families from Santiago and Valparaiso had their seaside residences in the country's most elite Balneario. It shows in the architecture.

At the foot of the hill is the Club Arabe-Siria and opposite is the Castillo Wulf, now the town council. Also just around the corner is the Cap Ducal, a restaurant and hotel right on the water and shaped like a cruise liner.

The new Sheraton is also at the foot of the hill.

From the new Sheraton or Castillo Wulf and Cap Ducal there are steps or a road leading up to the hill. From the other side, there's access from the beginning of Calle Valparaiso.

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Valparaiso is a city designed for exploring on foot, albeit feet wrapped in sturdy shoes. Its winding roads, beautiful little alleyways and stunning views await the intrepid explorer.

The Sendero Bicentenario is a self-guided walking tour of the entire city.

The easiest and most popular part of the tour is around Cerros Concepcion and Alegre - the ex-British and German enclaves with the city's finest architecture, hotels and restaurants - but it's well worth exploring other parts of town as well.

You'll be treated to incredible views of the city and the ocean at pretty much every turn.

You should be careful not to wave around expensive cameras in some areas, especially behind the Matriz Church, but overall the city is safe and welcoming.

www.senderobicentenario.cl/index_eng.html

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