Endlessly disorientating and inspiring, encompassing extremes on a truly Chinese scale, there can be few cities on earth at any time that have undergone such rapid and spectacular change. Don’t come here to relax, but to gawp in wonder at a crush of humanity on the move, at history being made in front of your eyes. By turns imperial, communist, capitalist and something completely new, this is a place where ideas are being transformed almost as fast as the cityscape.

In a modernisation drive ahead of the 2008 Olympics, streets and neighbourhoods are torn up and rebuilt at such a pace that even long-time residents often feel lost. Yet there are still stunning reminders of the past - few in the world as architecturally impressive as the Forbidden City and the Great Wall or as politically contentious as Tiananmen Square and the mausoleum for Mao Zedong. Now that cars clog the roads instead of bicycles, this is for the most part neither a clean nor an attractive city, but you can still savour the earthy beauty of the old hutong alleyways, where tranquil courtyards are just a step away from bustling streets.

With food cheap, take time to taste the varied dishes of China’s regions, especially the weird and wonderful fare available at Xiaochi Jie (Snack Street) near Wanfujing. But the absolute must for any visitor is to spend a few hours, ideally early in the morning, in a park - Ritan and Chaoyang are personal favourites though almost any one will do - which teem with vitality, affability and the very best of the city’s communal spirit.