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China
A really chilled out restaurant in Wahchai. Great for Sunday brunch. Fabulous old building and close to Wanchai MTR.
62 Johnston Road, Hong Kong
+852 2866 3444
Google map: bit.ly/sEZ6NY
This Chinese Restaurant is in North Point, a stone's throw from Wing Hing Street and the public toilet and refuse tip, but don't let that put you off. It's in a side street and under a bridge and doesn't look much from the outside, but the food is terrific and cheap too. They serve decent wine that's not expensive and is full of locals. Try the beef with peppers and onions in black bean sauce.
9 Tsing Fung St Tin Hau
+ (852) 2571 0913
Google map: bit.ly/pg1D5Q
I had seen this restaurant recommended for its crispy Peking Duck on the Grauniad website and in a couple of books. Went twice when I was in Hong Kong recently. Fantastic place with a great atmosphere and friendly staff and the duck really is to die for.
Full of locals which is generally a good sign. Advance booking recommended - turned up on spec one night and couldn't get in.
42 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon Nearest MTR station Tsim Sha Tsui East)
For dining, Caprice is a sure-fire winner. The chef here is Vincent Thierry who used to run the famous Le Cinq in Paris and the food is always excellent. You also have pretty harbour views. It’s quite formal so is a good place to go with clients, but if you want somewhere a bit more laid-back, then try Di Vino on Wyndham Street, which also has an excellent wine list.
There is a bar and restaurant called Weinstube. I found it accidentally and was surprisingly welcomed after listening to the craic going on at the bar by some local expat regulars, while having some really good schnitzel!
Staff are not over-friendly and if you need to know anything they just want to help you, from shopping to directions, or other places to eat or drink! I travel regularly to HK and pop in every time I'm there as it’s like a home away from home for me...hope it’s the same for you!
Weinstube: First floor, Ashley Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui (TST), Kowloon (opposite the Gaylord restaurant).
Dim sum is to Hong Kong as fish and chips (or perhaps a chicken korma) is to the UK. However, with countless restaurants in Hong Kong, where you do start? My recommendation would be at the dim sum restaurant (Lung King Heen) at the Four Seasons, Hong Kong. The dim sum served is of a different standard, each with its own twist on traditional classics. This delicous food is complimented with outstanding views of the harbour and impeccable service.
Situated on the first floor of the Four Seasons hotel. Make a reservation beforehand. Ask for a window view.
www.fourseasons.com/hongkong/dining/lung_king_heen.html
I lived in Hong Kong for four years and by far the most impressive view of Hong Kong island is from 'Aqua', a bar/restaurant at the 29th floor of 1 Peking Rd, Tsim Tsa Tsui on the Kowloon side. On the floor above Aqua there is a Chinese Restaurant called 'Hutong' that is also very impressive and with dimmed lighting to enhance the view even more.
1 Peking Rd, Tsim Tsa Tsui. www.aqua.com.hk/
If you go to Hong Kong around December the place is awash with hairy crabs - not an outbreak of unpleasantness, but a gastronomic opportunity. The ones I had were steamed and once one worked out how to get inside them, the ovaries were something between scrambled egg and mashed potato.
In every market, on every street. If your local restaurant doesn't have it on the menu, then buy a couple and ask them to cook them for you - you'll want other dishes too, as they weren't very filling.
When in Hong Kong - check out the Haagan Daz in Lan Kwai Fong, Central, for an Ice Cream fondue. I haven't found this available anywhere outside Asia (although I may be proved wrong). The dish features different flavours of ice cream, fresh fruit and a warm chocolate fondue dip. Perhaps for those with a sweet tooth.
www.haagen-dazs.com
Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong Island
I had some free time to go to Lantau, an island off Hong Kong, which is reachable by road and rail.
This is actually most people's arrival point, as Hong Kong's new airport was built on an artificial piece of land that was added to accommodate the huge structure.
The island is home to some amazing little fishing villages (Tai O), where locals go at weekends to buy their dried fish, as well as Big Buddha, the biggest outdoor buddha in the world. Next to the Big Buddha temple, is a monastery, where its possible to eat some fantastic vegetarian food, with beautifully decorated and ornate surroundings.
A great afternoon out, and the chance to be outside of the polluted areas like Hong Kong Island and Kowloon.
First went there in the 70s and again in the noughties. Fantastic, authentic food with crispy duck to die for
42 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon Nathan Rd.)
Hong Kong
2723-3637
Hong Kong Island has some fantastic beaches on the south side of the island.
Accessible by minibus, taxi and bus, these beaches can be a fantastic half-day out away from the city.
The beaches, from west to east, include Deep Water Bay, Repulse Bay, South Bay and over the point to Stanley.
Deep Water bay is a great place to enjoy the sun and sand and is connected to Repulse Bay around the point past Middle Island by a promenade (20min walk).
Repulse Bay is fundamentally a high-end residential area with a large beach and shops.
A short taxi ride from Repulse Bay is South Bay beach. This gem is usually less crowded and great for swimming and has a decent restaurant for snacks.
Over and around the point is Stanley (famous for its market) which has two beaches of note – the first is the main beach facing east (a short stroll from the main bus terminus); the second is St Stephen's beach. Facing into Stanley Bay, its a 15min walk along Wong Ma Kok Rd (taking you past one of HK’s many military cemeteries from WW2 – a sombre reminder of what went on here in recent history). Great for picnics and just enjoying the scenery, you can also take part in dinghy sailing and kayaking if you have the energy.
From Central Exchange Square terminus: to Stanley – 6, 6X, 260, 66 (6X, 260 via Deepwater Bay) all routes pass through Repulse Bay.
To South Bay: take a taxi from Repulse Bay (£2).
If you want to eat in LKF try running the gauntlet of Wing Wah Lane which is just off D'Aguilar Street (where most bars are concentrated).
As soon as you set foot on the street out come the chasing pack of touts trying to divert you into their restaurant but it is worth holding out and going round the bend to Co Co Curry which has a wide and tasty variety of Malaysian and Thai food as well as the extremely tasty Roti. Tasty and excellent value.
Perfectly washed down by a selection from their wide range of bottled lagers.
Wing Wah Lane, Lang Kwai Fong
Simply walk up Theatre Lane from Central MTR Station and be greeted by D'Aguilar Street. WWL is up the hill on the right.
34th Floor Restaurant with 270 degree views overlooking Victoria Park, Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club and Victoria Harbour.
All you can eat dim sum, sushi, sashimi, miso soup, freshly cooked noodles, sandwiches, quiches, fresh Fruit, chocolate fountain, Haagen-Dazs and cakes. Add all you can drink sparkling dry white wine and a price of HK$200 each (about £15) and you have a full stomach, few drinks, happy wife and happy wallet.
And if you have not had enough you can go back on a Sunday. Less of a buffet, more of a meal, and unlimited champagne instead of Sparkling Wine. HK$250 each.
Saturday Sparkling Tea Buffet is 1pm to 4.30pm.
Sunday Bubbly Brunch is 11.30am to 3pm.
Book early to get a window seat!!
www.excelsiorhongkong.com/
281 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay
Causeway Bay MTR Exit D1
Go at 5.30pm, see the stunning HK skyline by daylight in one revolution, then stay for a second revolution (it takes 66 minutes) and witness the lighting displays switching on one by one in many of the bigger towers. One of the famous ones plays hard to get and waits until all of the other flashy ones have shown their best before it suddenly lights up. The restuarant has a very nice buffet dinner starting after dark but you can stand at the bar for sunset drinks only. Staff are friendly and efficient. It isn't cheap but is excellent value for the location and entertainment. Be careful when you go to the toilet (in the central core) because in the five or ten minutes you are in there, the view changes and you can feel disorientated and lost.
The Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen's Road East, on the south edge of Wan Chai at the foot of the steep slope. Take a taxi (cheap and highly efficient) or take a 15-minute walk over from Wan Chai MRT through the narrow lanes and market stalls.
Dessert houses are small shops spread across the main city areas of Causeway Bay, Mong Kok and Tsim Sha Tsui, serving desserts of all types. Most of them are offered chilled, with the main ingredients been exotic fruit and pudding. Desserts are very popular amongst the locals and also ideal for anyone looking for sweet refreshment after an exhausting walk under the hot sun. Prices are very reasonable as well.
A local chain of Italian-style eateries. Adapted to local tastes but excellent value, very large portions and very family friendly (kids will love it).
There are about six branches dotted around Kowloon and Hong Kong Island. One is in Soho half way up the big escalator; www.fatangelos.com
This is the oldest traditional teahouse in HK. Straight out of the 1930s – the decor came from the original restaurant 100 years ago. The teahouse has a fantastic retro atmosphere. There’s excellent tea, great dimsum at lunchtime and at night the food is good, but it can be quiet.
Luk Yu is straight out of the movies, and is the actual scene of an old-style triad killing.
24 Stanley Street, Central, Hong Kong; tel: 852 2523 5463
To the North-East of the Happy Valley racetrack is the Happy Valley market, a concrete covered market which is thronging with all sorts of food during the day. However go upstairs and there are a couple of open courts with the ubiquitous plastic stools and tables where remarkably cheap and fantastically fresh food is served. Get your tea in a beaker and hit the fish in particular, but frankly you can afford to buy so much at the prices just to have a bit of everything.
Happy Valley, north-east of the racetrack, Happy Valley tram.
Go here for some of the finest curry outside India. On the steps outside, men with business cards might haggle with each other for your custom, but most of the restaurants inside the Chungking labyrinth are well worth checking out. Go in large groups so you can share as many dishes as possible.
The prices are excellent too: You should be able to feed five people for no more than £30 (under 500 HKD).
Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
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