- Shanghai
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China
Enoteca is a pair of wine bars where bottles start at around 90RMB- the same price as you pay in a Shanghainese supermarket.
The low profit margins don't mean that corners are cut though, as the service is spot on, French-style bar food (Croque Monsieur, creme brulee) is delicious and the XinTianDi branch has great live music on Wednesday nights.
Classy on the cheap with a loyal following.
Enoteca 1
53-57 Anfu Lu, near Changshu Lu
Tel: 5404 0050
Enoteca XinTianDi
58 Taicang Lu, near Jinan Lu
Tel: 5306 3400
Windows Scoreboard- the best of the three Windows around town, Scoreboard serves up a steak dinner for 30RMB, and 10RMB beers to a crowd of expat college kids and credit crunchees.
The music is a lot better than the service, and there are screens showing random TV channels everywhere you look, but it's hard to argue when Fish and Chips cost 10RMB a plate.
3F, 681 Huaihai Zhong Lu
near Sinan Lu
Tel: 5382 7757
C's Bar
Open until the last person leaves, students and expats rolling dice together over classic Hip-Hop, occasional left-field club nights (check out Antidote or Brown Nylon Suit), 10RMB beer, 20RMB whiskey.
685 Dingxi Lu,
near Fahuazhen Lu
6294-0547
On clear days, it's hard to beat the view from the Nanpu river in the South of Shanghai.
Tickets cost 68RMB to go up the elevator to the start of the bridge's arch. From there it's some 360 steps to the observatory deck at the top.
From this point you can see the Expo site (opens in June 2010), and the city laid out like a map as far as the eye can see: The Pearl Tower, the Financial Centre, People's Square, and miles of skyscrapers in every direction.
Ticket office at the very end of Lujiabang Lu (near Xietu Lu).
farm2.static.flickr.com/1292/543456092_f3b2854f9b.jpg
ispyshanghai.com
Shanghai's Maglev airport train shoots you across 30km at over 500 kph - the world's fastest. Take it for an experience rather than ease, unfortunately it doesn't take you right into the city centre but the station is well connected by taxis which wait around the station.
A one-way ticket is just around GBP5 so well worth the experience.
The Grand Hyatt is within easy reach of the Shanghai Stock Exchange and World Financial Centre, and is the highest hotel in the world. It occupies the 53rd to 87th floors of the Jin Mao Tower and has good desks in its rooms, as well as high-speed internet access and a 24-hour concierge. There is also secretarial support and a translation service available from the communications centre.
If you get some down-time, go to the Huxington Tea House in the Yu Yuan Garden. This is apparently Shanghai’s oldest tea house and they perform a traditional tea ceremony every evening from 8.30pm to 10pm. Be sure to get a table on the top floor looking out over the lake. And for something livelier to do in the evening, The House of Blues and Jazz gets a good range of international acts and is an intimate venue with a music-loving crowd.
The Glamour bar on Shanghai’s bund is an amazing place. Very chi-chi with pink lighting and huge Chinese print panels, it has three huge windows that look out on the city. They sometimes have live cabaret events and the best martinis in town.
Not so much a recommendation but more of a warning... The airport Maglev train is great for the experience but please be warned that it doesn't go straight into the city. This may come as a surprise to newcomers to the city. You will have to transfer to a taxi once you arrive at the station and therefore make sure you know where you want to go (ie have your hotel's address in Chinese) once you get off.
At the airport
I've pulled together some of my top tips for Shanghai - I've categorised each tip into time periods so that you can pick and choose depending on how much free time you've got.
0-2 hours: Avoid! Bund Tourist Tunnel - 10 minutes
Crossing the Bund can be done by boat, car or underground, but don't waste your time on the rather retro (read tacky) Bund Tourist Tunnel. The name is apt as only tourists would be crazy enough to spend their money on a underground fair ride that is more likely to cause an epileptic shock than any degree of amusement. It is however, the quickest way to cross the river if you are on the banks on the Bund (and it's rush hour so the tunnel is blocked). Give a try... if you really must.
Xian dan di - 1-2 hours
Ironically housed in the former offices of the Communist party, this beautiful refurbished part of town could be accused of being rather faux in terms of its connection with real China life... but it's there and it exists and it is part of Shanghai ex-pat life. The clean streets, the trendy restaurants and the outrageous prices probably tell you that you are in a place for tourists and expats, however, it's worth a look around and for a pitstop.
Go to Starbucks - 30 mins to 1 hour
I kid you not, some would accuse me of sacrilege but there is a reason... please bear with me. A lot of the Starbucks in the city benefit from sitting in the most prestigious and ideally located positions in the city for great panoramic views. My personal recommendation would be the Starbucks situated on the East bank of the river overlooking the Bund just opposite the Shangri-La hotel. Grab yourself a Chinese tea and watch the sunset over the river. The glowing fuzz of the city ahead will warm you before you retreat to your hotel.
Enjoy drinks over the Bund - 1-2 hours
A visit to Shanghai will not be complete without a visit to the historic 'Bund' district, the colonial waterside developed on the west bank of the Huangpu River. Many of the bars/restaurants (I recommend 'M on the Bund' - www.m-restaurantgroup.com/) offer expansive views over the Bund and the tall skyscrapers in the Pudong district. The food's not bad either! English and Chinese menus are available. Other nearby highlights include the old HSBC building (no longer housing HSBC) and Huangpu Park.
Stroll along Nanjing Road (to buy the other half a gift) -
2-4 hours
Home to Shanghai's main shopping street so be prepared to be greeted by tens of thousands of people. The shops range from the local to international with department stores dotted along the way. Be sure to stop by one of the many snack stores to take on board some of the delicious buns or dumplings that make China famous. Be sure you check the custom regulations for transporting goods though, be particularly careful with any foodstuffs.
Enjoy a river cruise along Huangpu River - 1-3 hours
One observation you will undoubtedly make whilst travelling in Shanghai is that the river is bustling with life. Container ships, tankers, passenger boats all zip up and down the river at a hectic speed. Board a river cruise boat from the ferry terminal at the south of the Bund district. Here you will be able to enjoy a one, two or even three hour river cruise. Take care though... Shanghai like many other Chinese cities is prone to a spot of smog. Try and pick a clear day. Try Huangpu River Cruise (239 Second Eastern Zhong Shan Road, Shanghai - tel +86 21 6374 4461). Nearest station - Wai Tan
Sleep in the clouds - 8 hours
Nope, I'm not talking about your business class flat bed on the way back home, I'm talking about the ever impressive Grand Hyatt Shanghai. Based in Pudong it's close to the financial centre and closer to the airport. Ask for a room overlooking the Pearl TV tower or over the park.
When in Shanghai, why not live the high life. Try out the Sky bar from the top of the Grand Hyatt Shanghai Pudong, located some 90 floors up. You can get views of all of Shanghai... just make sure it's clear on the day!
Guilin Park provides a haven of tranquility in this busy city, ideal for spending a quiet hour between business meetings and experiencing an authentic tourist-free Chinese park. It's a beautiful place where you can walk in peace, sit sipping green tea, or watch people practice tai chi in the mornings. It's located in a suburb about 20 minutes by taxi from the Bund.
Address: No. 128 Guilin Road (E), Shanghai, Zipcode: 200233
Use this mobile phone translation service whilst in China and connect to a team of operators who will be able to translate for you when you pass your mobile phone to the Chinese person with whom you need to communicate. So useful in lots of situations in a country where so few people speak English. The service can be used for business communication, travel around the country, hotel reservations and so much more.
Get a cab out to the Maglev stop and get the train to the airport - its the fastest train in the world and though the station is in the middle of nowhere, the experience is one you'll remember forever.
Any visit to Shanghai would not be complete without tasting the famous Shanghai dumpling (Xiaolongbao). These delicious dumplings are also know as soup dumplings, as the dumplings are filled with (often piping hot) soup. There are different versions to the dumpling but most are filled with pork and soup. It is typically served with vinegar, ginger and soy sauce.The most famous dumpling shop is in Nanxiang Mantou Dian in Shanghai where up to 30 minute queues can snake through this pretty historic site.
Nanxiang Mantou Dian, Shanghai
Ask your hotel to write down the address in Chinese. All hotels (plus locals) will know what you are talking about!
The Shelter is a dark tunnel that is currently beating all nightclub competition in the city by a mile.
Hip-hop, dub, techno and d'n'b all sound good in this underground spot where the drinks are reasonable, people smile while they dance and the pretentious need not apply.
No chrome, no flashy lightshows, no rolling dice, no sparklers in Champagne bottles, great music. A breath of fresh air (despite all the tobacco smoke).
5 Yongfu Lu near Fuxing Xi Lu.
Line 1 Changshu Lu Station
6437-0400
Taikang Lu is located near the central shopping street of Huaihai Xi Lu. It's one of the few remaining hutongs in the city. It offers an authentic Chinese feel, whilst resembling parts of Mediterranean Europe. Locals hang out their washing and go about their daily lives whilst you can visit boutiques and enjoy a range of international foods, including excellent Chinese cuisine.
Taikang Lu
It gives you an overview of all the places you can visit, where you can eat and drink as well as info on daily Shanghai life.
This bar might appear a trifle tacky, but the great live music, good drinks and friendly service more than offset the dubious visuals. Here, one can enjoy good clean fun. Beer starts at 20RMB.
13 XingFu Rd near FaHuaZhen Rd
logoshanghai.com
This hotel is an absolute gem of colonial history. For about £40 the Richard Executive Suite makes you feel like a visiting diplomat!
The building has a rich history and is located on the edge of the bund - within easy walking distance of Shanghai's main attractions.
It really made our visit to Shanghai, I can't imagine there is a better place to stay in the city.
I would also recommend a cocktail at M on the Bund - if you want to continue the glamorous feel.
www.pujianghotel.com/
15 Huangpu Road Shanghai,China ZIP：200080
TEL:008621-63246388
FAX：008621-63243179
E-mail: sales@pujianghotel.com
www.m-restaurantgroup.com/ for cocktails.
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