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The Bell Tower, Xian
Photo: Thomas Irvin

Walled treat
Most visitors, of course, head for the famed Terracotta Warriors, but there's more to Xi'an than them. Once the apex of the legendary Silk Road, the ancient capital still holds a few surprises.

Take, for example, the Muslim quarter, where you'll find, among other things: a grand mosque built in dyed-in-the-wood Chinese temple style; the Big Wild Goose Pagoda where Xuan Zang (better known as the slightly girlie young monk Tripitaka from the TV series Monkey) began his epic journey to the west; and a hustling, bustling market place. All of this enclosed within a vast city wall, which'll take you a whole day to cycle round.

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