I stayed in a small place (the minority cafe with a great cook but it may have changed hands by now) on Guihua road opposite a traditional medicine shop. It's cheaper and quieter than West Street (only minutes away) with a really great cake shop on the corner.

If walking up West Street towards the river turn left, over a bridge and it should be somewhere around there.

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An oasis of calm for weary travellers in China!

Four Streets of hotels, bars, restaurants and budget travel agents.

An excellent, clean, air-conditioned room (with shower) cost me CNY 60 (GBP 4) per night. Beer is CNY 6 a pint! Internet use is free all over town in bars and hotels.

You can get an English breakfast and yes a sandwich. I was caught staring at one for too long because I have been away for a long time. I just about got away with it as the shopkeeper spoke good English.

You can also revamp your traveller's wardrobe as the shops offer clothes in Western sizes and most people speak good English here.

Come here by tourist boat (CNY 400) or bus (CNY 20.) Stay here and not Guilin as it is much cheaper (see above.)

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