Colombia
We found this apartment service online and we can highly recommend it. Located in an old charming building, the apartments are thoroughly renovated to an excellent standard.
The location is also superb, with easy access to the important business districts as well as sights and Zona Rosa, Bogota's main shopping and nightlife area.
Like most parts of Latin America, you can buy tatty souvenirs in Bogotá. If you are looking for high quality, authentic and tasteful gifts, Galeria Cano is the solution. The handicrafts have information about their makers. The styles are often subtle. The prices are expensive by Colombian standards, but cheap by Western ones. And the staff at the airport shop are great.
Shops in Centro Comercial Urbino and at International Airport in Bogotá and at Plaza Bolivar in Cartagena.
www.galeriacano.com.co/index.htm
As a 'regular' at the much grander Hotel de la Opera, I was intrigued to stay several nights in this cheaper option in Candelaria historic district. The attempt to create a boutique hotel in a lovely old building has its quirks and is somewhat ramshackle, but it will suit anyone who does not expect 5-star comforts. Don't expect English to be spoken.
Dirección CALLE 9 NO. 6 45
Teléfonos 3421108
Email hotelcasadelabotica@hotmail.com
The place to be out and about at night. If you want to be seen with the right people, make sure you are seen there. Great places to eat, drink, dance, and most importantly, people watch.
Calle 92 with Kr 15
Ideally situated in the colonial Candelaria, and equipped with great bars and a restaurant, this hotel offers everything that you could need, including great views, guided tours and excursions. Prices from £60 for a double room.
Calle 10 5-72; www.hotelopera.com.co
It is difficult to spend too much money on food in Colombia but try this iconic Bogotá venue. Andres Carne de Res is actually a little out of town in the Chia district, but the trip is well worth the effort. Movers, shakers and the beautiful people descend on the sprawling bar, grill and restaurant nightly. The decor is unique, the vibe amazing, and once you are done eating the dancing goes on until the wee hours. Make sure you have someone to take you home again. The website will give you a better idea of the style of the place than anything I can tell you.
A Bogotá band with an English influence. Simply great tunes.
Acclaimed tale of a county girl who turns cocaine mule. An authentic flavour of the Colombian pueblo when it’s not being a horrific vision of some of the damage drug trafficking can inflict.
Bogotanos are absurdly proud of the gleaming new Transmilenio bus service, a kind of overground metro. A bendy bus might not seem that exciting, but compared to the insanity of the traditional bus routes, this is travelling in style.
Provides a showcase for the bewildering variety of plants that grow in the country, one of the planet’s most bio diverse.
Calle 57 61-13
Try any fruit. Especially if you have never seen or heard of it before. There are seemingly hundreds of exotic flavours to try.
The city’s trademark dish. A delicious chicken and potato soup served with rice, plantain, corn, avocado, capers and cream. A siesta afterwards may be necessary.
Emeralds are one of Colombia’s natural riches and a great temptation for bargain hunters. However, inferior stones can be passed off onto unsuspecting gringos with ease if you don’t know your stuff, so go for reputable outlets or avoid altogether.
The Mirador restaurant upstairs at Hotel de la Opera is right in the middle of the Candelaria, the romantic colonial section of the city. Sit on the fourth floor and enjoy a candlelit dinner watching the sensational high altitude sunsets and distant mountain lightning that flickers beyond the terracotta rooftops and view of the main plaza.
Calle 10 5-72; www.hotelopera.com.co
Best to leave it behind. Customs are quite hot on this one.
Woven baskets, hammocks and mochilas (a local bag) are all worth a look, as are reproductions of pre-Colombian pottery and gold work.
Try the pricey but high quality Artesanias de Colombia next to the church Iglesia de las Aguas on Carerra 3A, 18-60.
Gifted to the city by Colombia’s most famous artist. Botero’s trademark paintings of dumpy people abound, but a surprising number of other artists too including Miro, Picasso and more.
In the Candelaria, Calle 11 4-41
The Museum of Gold houses arguably the finest collection of pre-Colombian gold on the planet. Not to be missed. 2,500 pesos for adults, free on Sundays.
Calle 16, 5a-6a; www.banrep.org/museo
On Sundays and bank holidays a network of main roads is shut to traffic to create the ciclovia (which sounds better than ‘bike route’). It seems like the whole city is out and about, either on foot, bike, roller blades or unicycles. Those not riding are selling; hundreds of food stalls, vendors and entertainers will cater to your needs.
Start early on the Septima, (Carerra 7) and follow your nose.
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