Take a stroll in the Candelaria, the city’s beautiful colonial heart. Calles 10 to 16 between Carerras 1 to 7 are the best-preserved streets to see. The area has fantastic architecture, a certain squalid charm and a vibrant bar scene thanks to the numbers of students and artists living and working here. The adjacent Plaza de Bolivar is worth a visit too.

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A peak of over 3,000m offers magnificent, uninterrupted views of the city and the altiplano beyond. A colonial church, a restaurant and splendidly tacky vending stalls await you at the top. Take the cable car or funicular railway from the station at Carerra 2E 21-48. (It’s worth taking a taxi this far, as the surrounding neighbourhood is not the safest to wander around on foot.)

You can walk up, too. It takes an hour, but is only recommended on Sundays when the volume of locals making the pilgrimage to the shrine at the top is sufficient to deter the thieves and muggers who otherwise might try to relieve individuals of their possessions.

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