Croatia
You don't have to be a resident to visit the terrace bar at the Hotel Excelsior, which has a fantastic view of the Old Town and is blessed with afternoon sunshine.
Walk through a small doorway in the city walls and you come out onto an amazing bar set into the rocks on mutliple levels, overlooking the sea. You get waves crashing in front of you, and the city wall rises behind you. Stay for a glass of wine or local beer at sunset, and the only noise you'll hear is some quiet chatter, the waves crashing below, birds squawking as they play above your head, and some Sinatra or similar playing quietly in the background. When it gets dark, the waitress brings out candles for all the tables.
It's all very basic, with plastic cups and chemical toilets, but it's so worth it for the view and the atmosphere.
There's two Buzas (the name means 'hole in the wall', I think) but Buza 1 seemed to be closed when we were there.
Follow the city walls around at the very south of the old town on Od Margarite. Look out for a doorway in the wall, with a wooden sign saying 'Cold Drinks'.
It is a spectacular drive, with mountains on the left and blue sea on the right, though you also head into the mountains in places. On a hot sunny day in a convertable motor and a partner at your side, it is a joy. Set off after breakfast and you'll be in wonderful Dubrovnik by mid-afternoon. Stay a day or two in Dubrovnik, then take the afternoon ferry back to Split. By doing this you get to see the coast and islands as the sun goes down. Bliss!
You can reach Split by bus or plane from Zagreb, or fly directly from UK. Hire a convertable motor car there, and head south. If not in a convertable make sure you get a car with air con or you'll boil!
See the stunning coastline and islands on the coastal ferry, enjoying life in the slow lane. The full trip involves an overnight which you could spend on the deck or pay a bit more for a cabin. Otherwise enjoy part of the route between the major cities and islands along the coast - the ferry calls at Split, Hvar and Korcula amongst others.
Get tickets and timetables at any Jadrolinja or Atlas Travel office found in ports and towns all along the coast - and inland. Or visit Via Mare for bookings crossing from Italy - www.viamare.com.
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