Either is a very appropriate name for, what must be, one of the coolest bars in the world. Work your way down from the Pile Gate, through the old town which is delightful, find the Jesuit Church and then the "outside wall" - there are a couple of hand written signs saying simply "Cold Drinks". There is a small doorway through the wall which leads you to a tiny bar nestling on jagged rocks. There are only about a dozen tables which all face out to the fabulous Adriatic, various rocks and small islands. Entertainment is provided by local lads slightly showing off by diving off the fairly high rocks and the conversation is a babble of languages with Australian accents to the fore (the Aussies can always find a good Buza!). Magical spot and worth the prices for the views and ambience.

www.cafebuza.com/
Trgovina Buža - caffe bar Buža
Crijevićeva 9, 20 000 DUBROVNIK
+385 91 589 4936
Google map: bit.ly/vzFqcR

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On of the main things to be done when visiting Dubrovnik. You can walk around the city walls with great views to be had.

Main entrance near the Pile gate, on the left hand side as you come through the gate.
Google map: bit.ly/btTpel

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Probably the best beach area in Dubrovnik.
As with most beaches in Croatia, very little if any sand with pebbles the order of the day.
However views are great and water is clean and clear.
Loungers and sun umbrellas can be hired.

No 4 or No 6 bus from Pile Gate will take you near the beach.
Beach is located at bottom of Kralja Zvonmira.
Google map: bit.ly/cMYVSl

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The city centre beach Banje is just a short walk from the Ploce Gate. As with most beaches in Croatia, the water is clean & clear but the beach itself is pebbly rather than sandy. Most of this beach has been sold off to the East - West bar / restaurant. Sun loungers & umbrellas are available for hire at 120KN for two loungers and one umbrella.
The locals tend to congregate in the half that still is under municipal control.

Banje beach outside Ploce gate
Google map: bit.ly/bdjbOy

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You don't have to be a resident to visit the terrace bar at the Hotel Excelsior, which has a fantastic view of the Old Town and is blessed with afternoon sunshine.

hotel-excelsior.hr

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Walk through a small doorway in the city walls and you come out onto an amazing bar set into the rocks on mutliple levels, overlooking the sea. You get waves crashing in front of you, and the city wall rises behind you. Stay for a glass of wine or local beer at sunset, and the only noise you'll hear is some quiet chatter, the waves crashing below, birds squawking as they play above your head, and some Sinatra or similar playing quietly in the background. When it gets dark, the waitress brings out candles for all the tables.

It's all very basic, with plastic cups and chemical toilets, but it's so worth it for the view and the atmosphere.

There's two Buzas (the name means 'hole in the wall', I think) but Buza 1 seemed to be closed when we were there.

Follow the city walls around at the very south of the old town on Od Margarite. Look out for a doorway in the wall, with a wooden sign saying 'Cold Drinks'.
www.dujoy.com/default.asp?mode=locator&idLocation=415

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It is a spectacular drive, with mountains on the left and blue sea on the right, though you also head into the mountains in places. On a hot sunny day in a convertable motor and a partner at your side, it is a joy. Set off after breakfast and you'll be in wonderful Dubrovnik by mid-afternoon. Stay a day or two in Dubrovnik, then take the afternoon ferry back to Split. By doing this you get to see the coast and islands as the sun goes down. Bliss!

You can reach Split by bus or plane from Zagreb, or fly directly from UK. Hire a convertable motor car there, and head south. If not in a convertable make sure you get a car with air con or you'll boil!

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See the stunning coastline and islands on the coastal ferry, enjoying life in the slow lane. The full trip involves an overnight which you could spend on the deck or pay a bit more for a cabin. Otherwise enjoy part of the route between the major cities and islands along the coast - the ferry calls at Split, Hvar and Korcula amongst others.

Get tickets and timetables at any Jadrolinja or Atlas Travel office found in ports and towns all along the coast - and inland. Or visit Via Mare for bookings crossing from Italy - www.viamare.com.

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