Croatia
A tiny local bar/club - you won't hear yourself think or see across the room for smoke - but to meet local people, enjoy cheap local drinks and escape the pompous arses in Carpe Diem in a lively and exciting atmosphere - this is perfect.
Down one of the backstreets off the main strip of bars (the walkway by the yachts, where Carpe Diem is) - you'll probably need to ask a local!
Dvori Sv. Jurja is an estate on top of the Hvar overlooking the sea and island of Scedro. It is a very unique and chilled place comprising of three stone houses in a typical Mediterranean garden with all amenities you need: a pool, tennis court and a vegetable garden. Ideal for a relaxing holiday far enough from hustle of the Hvar town and yet not too far from beaches and the nightlife should you want it. Surrounded by lavender fields and untouched nature, with wild horses roaming around offers many opportunities for walks, hikes as an alternative to the usual beach experience. We stayed there with friends for two weeks last summer and have actually organised our wedding there. The owners, Olga and Veljko were amazing hosts and provided all the support and help we needed which ensured we had an unforgettable wedding plus a great holiday.
www.hvarskidvori.info/Home_v2.aspx
+38521761404
Lucica BB, 21465 Jelsa
On an island known as the 'Ibiza of Croatia' - achingly cool bars and golden sandy beaches, budget accommodation is hard to come by. Step forward, The Green Lizard Hostel. Fifteen minutes uphill walk from the ferry port, you a rewarded by a spectacular outdoor patio where an honest bar of cool beer awaits. As the sun goes down, make use of the outdoor kitchen and BBQ area whilst enjoying a pre drinking session before heading to party the night away in paradise on the hostel run nights out.
Hvar,
Croatia
21450
www.greenlizard.hr
Google map: tinyurl.com/346k7m8
We stayed there last summer, lovely place filled with paintings made by the land lady, only few min walk from the beach. We had great time and would highly recomend it!
www.tudorholidays-hvar.com
Jurja Novaka 6, 21450 Hvar, Croatia
Phone: (00 385) 21 741 772
We booked an apartment in their house and the place was great.We had a great apartment on the top floor with great sea view.
Jelsa is a small fishing town around 20km east of Hvar town. With several restaurants, bars and ice-cream cafes it has a charming, family feel. It is a great base to go on and explore from, with day trips to Brac Island and lots of places to hire bikes and scooters.
The catamaran goes once a day from Split to Jelsa via Brac Island and costs no more than a few pounds. Word of warning though: the bus services to and from Jelsa are somewhat limited.
I spent a day on a sea kayaking trip with Hvar Adventure. It was great experience in amazing surroundings. Loved it and recommend it.
Great place in Jelsa on Hvar, with very reasonable prices. I enjoyed my stay at the hostel and I recommend it.
Two great apartments right in the old town and next to the harbour. Owned by a very friendly family who will tell you all you need to know about the island and its history as well as helping you plan trips around the island.
All of a sudden there has been a craze in the market to travel to Croatia’s coastline. It is absolutely no wonder, considering Croatia boasts some of the most stunning coasts in Europe. I came across this beauty a couple of years ago and loved it so much I went again this year.
What I loved most about the islands (especially the first time) is the serenity and lack of built up resort style beachfronts that can be found everywhere else in the world. No matter how spectacular a place is, if its panorama is filled with man-made constructions and obstructions that I could also find on the Gold Coast, Ibiza, Cancun etc., then it has lost the unique splendour and appeal that I love about Hvar, Mljet or The Elaphite Islands.
With the Croatian islands still being relatively untouched like this, my travel tip is to see this place yourself. Don’t pay a tour guide or company to show you around! You don’t need to! With fresh fruit markets and ample accommodation in the townships (no matter how small) you save yourself a fortune, compared to paying for your stock standard tour group, which hardly compares to exploring these islands using your own aptitude. The islands are small enough to see on your own and the transport between islands is common, cheap and only a short distance!
You can get a ferry in the morning and be at the next place well before lunch. Hire a moped or bicycle and see more of the islands then any tour could show you. On many occasions I found myself on a beach that was not only magical but I was the only person there. Travel this seaside paradise with no time limits, stay on the islands you love and move on from the locations that you don’t. Explore these islands, use only a small amount of effort and less money than you would spend on the weekend in London - and you can find so much more than you bargained for!
The catamaran from Split to Hvar takes one hour, and the ferry takes just over two.
If you're not pressed for time (they cost the same - 38kuna or £3.50), take the ferry as you can sit on the top deck and sunbathe as you pass by beautiful islands.
from Split harbour, Jandrolinja ferries/catamarans
Lovely rocky beach with deck chairs for hire and plenty of shade from forest if wanted. Large area so not crowded. The sea was crystal clear and the snorkelling was great!
one of closest Pakleni islands - take a taxi boat from Hvar town (30kuna/£2.80 return), about 15/20 mins
Fantastic rustic family-run restaurant, serving Dalmatian tapas. The home-made food was excellent and the family were very welcoming. The drunken figs dessert was great! Might be worth reserving as we had to wait a while. Average price.
Head up hill towards fortress from main square, past Zimmer Frei bar and Paradise Garden restaurant (also excellent). Turn left and walk along until you see the barrel with the restaurant name painted on it on one of the tiny roads leading up off to your right.
Great late night bar/club, a local recommended this to us. Everyone spills out onto the steps outside. Lively fun crowd.
alley on right behind Nautica, leading off main harbour. You pass a small casino on your right just before the alley.
Italian restaurant right on main square - great food, reasonable price and beautiful setting.
Main square, Hvar Town
We had a fantastic week in Hvar, which has earned the reputation as the St Tropez of Croatia.
Some info that i would have found useful/interesting before going: Its reputation is accurate - it is fun and fashionable, and the price of eating and drinking is more comparable to western European cities than other parts of Croatia/other towns on Hvar island.
Hvar town is beautiful but very busy in July and August (although if you want to party then this is great!).
If sandy beaches are your thing, then Hvar probably isn't. The beaches are either pebbles or large rocks (can be uncomfortable).
There are sea urchins! Buy some rubber shoes.
Snorkelling is great, definitely worth investing in a snorkel kit.
Beautiful pebble beach to the east of Hvar. You have to walk down a dirt trail to get to it. The snorkelling here was excellent, and the beach was quite large and not too crowded. We had a great meal here in the restaurant on the beach - huge plate of grilled prawns and scampi!
If driving from Hvar, there's a long car parking bay on the side of road with a bus stop.
This was our favourite beach. Not too overcrowded, round pebbles, bright turquoise water, no sea urchins (common on many of the beaches on Hvar).
We headed for a little sheltered cove off to the right of the beach which was meant to be for nudists. Not only does this have shade from the trees, but there were less people. The majority of people sunbathing there weren't nude, and as long as the odd naked couple doesn't disturb you, it's ideal! Great snorkelling here too, as on most beaches in Hvar.
Good restaurant on beach with BBQ fish and meat.
Get taxi boat from Hvar for 30 kuna return (£2.80), takes about 20 mins. The beach is called Mekcevina or something similar
If you are planning on going to Zavala or Sveti Nedelja beach, don't go by scooter. Nothing can prepare you for the long, dark tunnel you have to pass through to get to them.
Scooters aren't meant to use it, although they didn't tell us this in the rental shop. There are literally no lights, so it is pitch black as the scooter lights are not designed to light up the road but just to be seen.
We had to follow the car in front very closely to see by his tail lights, and the tunnel was damp so we were afraid of slipping. On the way back it was worse as there was a car behind us and we were able to see the road which was not properly surfaced, full of ruts and pot holes, and very narrow. We were both shaking when we finally got to the end!
on way to Zavala beach
If you are planning on staying a little further out of Hvar centre and renting a scooter or car to get into town or see more of the island, be aware that there only seems to be one company that rents them and it's very expensive!
We were shocked to pay £32 a day for a banged-up old scooter which could hardly make it up the hills (we paid £7 a day last year in Greece). Cars were £56 a day.
Having said that, it is worth it for at least a day, to visit some of the beaches, and to take the old road via Brusje on the way home, gorgeous view from top of Hvar looking out towards Brac as the sun sets.
Rent scooters from the bus station at Hvar
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