- Hvar
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Croatia
All of a sudden there has been a craze in the market to travel to Croatia’s coastline. It is absolutely no wonder, considering Croatia boasts some of the most stunning coasts in Europe. I came across this beauty a couple of years ago and loved it so much I went again this year.
What I loved most about the islands (especially the first time) is the serenity and lack of built up resort style beachfronts that can be found everywhere else in the world. No matter how spectacular a place is, if its panorama is filled with man-made constructions and obstructions that I could also find on the Gold Coast, Ibiza, Cancun etc., then it has lost the unique splendour and appeal that I love about Hvar, Mljet or The Elaphite Islands.
With the Croatian islands still being relatively untouched like this, my travel tip is to see this place yourself. Don’t pay a tour guide or company to show you around! You don’t need to! With fresh fruit markets and ample accommodation in the townships (no matter how small) you save yourself a fortune, compared to paying for your stock standard tour group, which hardly compares to exploring these islands using your own aptitude. The islands are small enough to see on your own and the transport between islands is common, cheap and only a short distance!
You can get a ferry in the morning and be at the next place well before lunch. Hire a moped or bicycle and see more of the islands then any tour could show you. On many occasions I found myself on a beach that was not only magical but I was the only person there. Travel this seaside paradise with no time limits, stay on the islands you love and move on from the locations that you don’t. Explore these islands, use only a small amount of effort and less money than you would spend on the weekend in London - and you can find so much more than you bargained for!
The catamaran from Split to Hvar takes one hour, and the ferry takes just over two.
If you're not pressed for time (they cost the same - 38kuna or £3.50), take the ferry as you can sit on the top deck and sunbathe as you pass by beautiful islands.
from Split harbour, Jandrolinja ferries/catamarans
Lovely rocky beach with deck chairs for hire and plenty of shade from forest if wanted. Large area so not crowded. The sea was crystal clear and the snorkelling was great!
one of closest Pakleni islands - take a taxi boat from Hvar town (30kuna/£2.80 return), about 15/20 mins
Fantastic rustic family-run restaurant, serving Dalmatian tapas. The home-made food was excellent and the family were very welcoming. The drunken figs dessert was great! Might be worth reserving as we had to wait a while. Average price.
Head up hill towards fortress from main square, past Zimmer Frei bar and Paradise Garden restaurant (also excellent). Turn left and walk along until you see the barrel with the restaurant name painted on it on one of the tiny roads leading up off to your right.
Great late night bar/club, a local recommended this to us. Everyone spills out onto the steps outside. Lively fun crowd.
alley on right behind Nautica, leading off main harbour. You pass a small casino on your right just before the alley.
Italian restaurant right on main square - great food, reasonable price and beautiful setting.
Main square, Hvar Town
We had a fantastic week in Hvar, which has earned the reputation as the St Tropez of Croatia.
Some info that i would have found useful/interesting before going: Its reputation is accurate - it is fun and fashionable, and the price of eating and drinking is more comparable to western European cities than other parts of Croatia/other towns on Hvar island.
Hvar town is beautiful but very busy in July and August (although if you want to party then this is great!).
If sandy beaches are your thing, then Hvar probably isn't. The beaches are either pebbles or large rocks (can be uncomfortable).
There are sea urchins! Buy some rubber shoes.
Snorkelling is great, definitely worth investing in a snorkel kit.
Beautiful pebble beach to the east of Hvar. You have to walk down a dirt trail to get to it. The snorkelling here was excellent, and the beach was quite large and not too crowded. We had a great meal here in the restaurant on the beach - huge plate of grilled prawns and scampi!
If driving from Hvar, there's a long car parking bay on the side of road with a bus stop.
This was our favourite beach. Not too overcrowded, round pebbles, bright turquoise water, no sea urchins (common on many of the beaches on Hvar).
We headed for a little sheltered cove off to the right of the beach which was meant to be for nudists. Not only does this have shade from the trees, but there were less people. The majority of people sunbathing there weren't nude, and as long as the odd naked couple doesn't disturb you, it's ideal! Great snorkelling here too, as on most beaches in Hvar.
Good restaurant on beach with BBQ fish and meat.
Get taxi boat from Hvar for 30 kuna return (£2.80), takes about 20 mins. The beach is called Mekcevina or something similar
If you are planning on going to Zavala or Sveti Nedelja beach, don't go by scooter. Nothing can prepare you for the long, dark tunnel you have to pass through to get to them.
Scooters aren't meant to use it, although they didn't tell us this in the rental shop. There are literally no lights, so it is pitch black as the scooter lights are not designed to light up the road but just to be seen.
We had to follow the car in front very closely to see by his tail lights, and the tunnel was damp so we were afraid of slipping. On the way back it was worse as there was a car behind us and we were able to see the road which was not properly surfaced, full of ruts and pot holes, and very narrow. We were both shaking when we finally got to the end!
on way to Zavala beach
If you are planning on staying a little further out of Hvar centre and renting a scooter or car to get into town or see more of the island, be aware that there only seems to be one company that rents them and it's very expensive!
We were shocked to pay £32 a day for a banged-up old scooter which could hardly make it up the hills (we paid £7 a day last year in Greece). Cars were £56 a day.
Having said that, it is worth it for at least a day, to visit some of the beaches, and to take the old road via Brusje on the way home, gorgeous view from top of Hvar looking out towards Brac as the sun sets.
Rent scooters from the bus station at Hvar
I spent a long time researching apartments in Hvar as I had heard it was better to book ahead in August (although in the end, there were lots of people offering accommodation as we got off the ferry).
This was one of the few apartments I found that looked comfortable, central (in old fortress part of town) and modern for a reasonable price. We paid £34 a night for two people. The terrace was huge and had a fantastic view of the harbour and Pakleni islands. We had air con (you will need it in July/Aug), and were two minutes' from the main square. Owners were friendly and speak good English. I think they also have an apartment for four people.
Prosper Caric <prosper.caric@st.t-com.hr
00385 91 725 2481 (Natasa Caric)
(google "prosper caric" for photos)
We recently came home from a lovely holiday in Hvar. I am a PADI certified diver, but my girlfriend had not tried it before, so we decided to do a introductory dive with Viking. The diving centre were excellent - very well organised and professional, as well as very welcoming and friendly. Thoroughly recommended !!
While I was recently visiting Croatia on a property buying excursion, I headed out to the island of Hvar for a few days to relax and forget about things for a while. Whilst wandering around the old square, I came across a sign for a company offering adventure tours. I opted for one of their slightly less adventurous options, a sailing trip to the isalnd of Vis. I have to say, I had an absolutely fabulous day - the crew were so friendly, Vis was amazing, and I even had a go at steering the boat! So, if you're on Hvar and fancy something a bit different, be sure to look them up!
These only go on sale of the day of travel and can sell out fast for weekends and holidays. The ticket office opens at 6am. I went at 8am recently and all were already gone, so beware!
A very trendy bar on the harbour front and the place to be seen on the island. We went in September and it was packed, and I hear it's extremely busy in the summer months with huge queues so pick your time carefully. Great cocktails, music and a beautiful setting - makes you feel fabulous!
A mellow town on the other side of the island from Hvar town, where bohemians from Zagreb like to spend their summers. Hvar is undoubtedly beautiful but crammed full of posing Italians.
Just off the coast from Split.
For peace and nature lovers it would be wise to find accommodation somewhere around city of Hvar: www.hvarinfo.com might be a site to look. I found my accommodation in Basina bay there. Otherwise, you might find your self sleepless if you try to find accommodation somewhere in city centre.
Its a restaurant (like tapas, but Dalmation-style) and I recommend it because the staff are lovely, the food is outstanding (try the drunken figs!), and best of all, you sit at upturned half-barrels and drink local wine out of tumblers in the candlelight - there are no electric lights in there. Perfect.
Hvar Town, wander and you'll find it. I think its near sweet and pretty zimmer frei bar (the one with the white laundry hanging outside - love the bloomers).
We sailed to Hvar island and stopped at a beautiful bay called Jelsa Bay. There is a great garden restaurant and bar there called Villa Verde - the cocktails are amazing!
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