A short water taxi from Hvar Town takes you to the beautiful islet of Marinkovac, the highlight of which is not the amazing, sheltered bay in the southern corner, but rather the small, blink-and-you'll miss it bar by the taxi pontoon.
Having missed our boat we had to console ourselves with a glass of their own wine and were invited by the owner to take a walk around the vineyard from which the grapes came. Truly locally sourced.
The owners are wonderfully enthusiastic and knowledgeable about wines, and it was a pleasure to settle in and miss a few more boats while we chatted with them.
Take the water taxi from Havr Town to Marinkovac, the bar is right next to the pontoon.
Google map: bit.ly/LuIS1k
Though Hvar is known for its posh port and brilliant beaches, those with steel knuckles and a set of wheels can go for a joy ride on the narrow, twisted back lanes of the island's old roads. Not for acrophobes, the summit near the charming village of Grablje reveals heart-stopping panoramic views of the Adriatic Sea and Croatian mainland. Ancient stone walls mix uniquely with modern patchworks of lavender bushes and olive trees; dense pine forests nestle below the horizon. Back at sea level, stop in tiny Milna where inexpensive fresh fish, delicious omelettes, and perfect white stone beaches reward hardy souls in the only open-air alfresco cafe.
A tiny local bar/club - you won't hear yourself think or see across the room for smoke - but to meet local people, enjoy cheap local drinks and escape the pompous arses in Carpe Diem in a lively and exciting atmosphere - this is perfect.
Down one of the backstreets off the main strip of bars (the walkway by the yachts, where Carpe Diem is) - you'll probably need to ask a local!
Great late night bar/club, a local recommended this to us. Everyone spills out onto the steps outside. Lively fun crowd.
alley on right behind Nautica, leading off main harbour. You pass a small casino on your right just before the alley.
A very trendy bar on the harbour front and the place to be seen on the island. We went in September and it was packed, and I hear it's extremely busy in the summer months with huge queues so pick your time carefully. Great cocktails, music and a beautiful setting - makes you feel fabulous!
Ok so its not exactly off the beaten path, however Hvar is beautiful nonetheless. For the best seafood ever and fun, friendly staff go to Palladini restaurant in the backstreets behind the main square. The beaches in Hvar are rocky, but for a £3.50 return fare in a taxi boat you can explore some of the neighbouring islands such as Palmizana and Jerolim for the nudists.
As far as nightlife is concerned, the main bar is Carpe Diem, which is fun but pretty expensive.
Find accomodation through the tourist office www.hvar.hr. The general standard of private accommodation on is very high; we stayed at apartments Konstantin and experienced true Croatian hospitality.
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