Lumbarda is a large holiday village, located on the south eastern tip of the island of Korcula. This does not sound like something special, but boy did we have good time there! Not in bars, discos and clubs, but in local family farms where we tasted fantastic local grown food and wine. I can recommend agrotourism Lovrić (big up for Mr. Renci - thank you for everything!), and also the beautiful beaches in the vicinity and unspoiled nature. If you ask me, this is the best family vacation we ever had!

www.lovric.info/
+385(0)20712052
Google map: bit.ly/RMG2VE

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I recommend taking a flight to Dubrovnik and flying home from Split. The reason is that going in that direction you will be able to book your island hopping ferries in advance and avoid getting up at five or six am (to queue for tickets) on the day if you travel in the opposite direction. We visited Korcula where we stayed with the redoutable Priam in Karbouni,who made us feel part of their family summer, the canoes were free and the sea clear and enticing. We also went to Mljet which was more touristy but stunning. Trogir was used to film Dr Who and is small enough to get to know in three days, Split is an extraordinary a old town built in a Roman Palace. We could do the whole thing again with a completely different list of islands.

One more thing: the ice cream parlours were to die for and there was an ice cream "barista" in Dubrovnik who juggled the scoops as he served them. We took the kids with small backpacks each and they thrived on it.

Ferries to Korcula from Dubrovnik come in to Korcula Town and some Split ferries leave from Vela Luca a bus ride down to the other end of the island. Try starting with www.croatiaferries.com/ and itinerise!

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Escape the cruise ship hordes in Korcula Town and the sunworshippers on Orebic beach by heading out to peaceful Stupe Island. This tiny outcrop in the Adriatic Sea (you can walk right round it in 20 minutes) has a small beach, superb snorkelling, rocks to dive off and a family-run shack, or Kornoba, serving freshly-caught grilled fish. The kitchen is built right into the rock and wooden tables overlook the dock beneath a shade of reeds. You can reach the island by water taxi from Korcula or, as we did, towed behind a speedboat on an inflatable banana! Just don't forget to ask to be picked up again after sunset.

Otok Stupe, Korcula Archipelago, Croatia
For table booking call mobile: +385 (0)98 933 76 11
www.korculainfo.com/restaurants/konoba-grill-stupe.html
Google map: bit.ly/MAco1h

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Specifically, I recommend the mussels at KB: I saw them hand-delivered the morning of the day I dined there. KB serves a heaping plateful for less than $10. These are the best mussels I've eaten in my life, and I take my food (too) seriously.

Trip report, photos: shallowmusings.typepad.com/travel_musings/

Here's the website with the address:

www.gastronaut.hr/restoran.asp?id=5076

If you're walking from the town center to Hotel Liburna: it's halfway, on your right.

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