Beautiful square right in the centre of the old palace walls, with cathedral lit up at night. We passed through at about 11pm and there were loads of people sitting on cushions on the stone steps listening to a woman with guitar accompaniment who was singing from a bar, and waiters were coming round to take drink orders - perfect ambiance in magical setting!

right next to cathedral

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Tucked away in the middle of Split's old town, Cafe Nabeel is a curious but brilliant little local hangout where tourists also seem welcome. The kitchen rustles up hefty pies, best shared, and you can also fill up on toast. Late at night the cafe morphs into a lively night spot where the genial Nabeel can be seen showing off his 'bungra' dance moves - join in for a discount! Perhaps best of all is the decor - a bizarre mixture of local crafts and pieces of Star Wars Lego. An unmissable local oddity.

Head down Zadarska, off Narodni Trg central square in Split's old town.

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