This is a Roman palace near the main square in Split (which also has a little cafe in it). There is a tower to climb up where you have fantastic views of the city, as well as being able to go underground and see the rooms that they have excavated. Well worth a look.

Look for the large tower and the main square - they are all within close distance from one another.

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Tucked away in the middle of Split's old town, Cafe Nabeel is a curious but brilliant little local hangout where tourists also seem welcome. The kitchen rustles up hefty pies, best shared, and you can also fill up on toast. Late at night the cafe morphs into a lively night spot where the genial Nabeel can be seen showing off his 'bungra' dance moves - join in for a discount! Perhaps best of all is the decor - a bizarre mixture of local crafts and pieces of Star Wars Lego. An unmissable local oddity.

Head down Zadarska, off Narodni Trg central square in Split's old town.

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Newly opened, already doing a roaring trade, and in a lively back street between Split Old Town and the ferry port, The Bistro Black Cat has something a bit different to offer. Sit on the shady terrace and enjoy a full English breakfast, filled croissants, enormous gourmet salads, tapas and a range of international cuisine at local prices. Or just drop by for a real cocktail with fresh ingredients during Happy Hour between 5 and 6pm.

You’ll find Bistro Black Cat, on the corner of Petrova and Šegvićeva, by walking east to the end of Split Riva, passing the market on your left, and then over the bridge over the railway lines on to Petrova. You’ll quickly come to Šegvićeva on your right and the welcoming sign of “Bistro Black Cat”. Or phone 021 490 284 for directions if you get lost! Open 8 am to 12 pm.

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Get a ferry timetable at Split ferry terminal and find one of the little routes that goes around several of the small islands. The ferries provide the islanders' bus service, and deliver the post and supplies. If you pick a good route you'll sail into half a dozen tiny blue-water harbours of outlying islands, and all for just a few pounds. Most tickets are valid all day, so you can step off for lunch on an island before continuing. The ferries usually do a circuit, so you'll be back in Split by nightfall. If you are backpacking, you can see almost the entire coastline this way.

Get a timetable at the Split ferry terminal on the waterfront. Most staff speak English and will know the best routes to take.

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Almost every village and town along the Croatian Coastline has a summer festival of some sort, in July or August or both. Omis, half an hour's drive from Split is one of the heartlands of traditional Klapa music and has a festival devoted exclusively to it every summer. It’s multi part harmony singing, normally male only and without accompaniment, and the sweet stirring tones of the harmonies belie the physique of the singers.

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Well equipped, air conditioned flat about 10 minutes walk from Diocletian's Palace and waterfront, run by friendly helpful multi-lingual family resident in the same block.

Luciceva 13 21000 Split
www.apartment-split.com
00 385 98 331 475
Train station Split. Trains infrequent.
Well served by long distance coach and local bus links. Split Airport accessible by dedicated coach and local bus service.

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If you’re in the middle of a heat wave and the beaches are too hot, head for the banks of the Cetina river, near Omiš (around 16 miles from Spilt) and take a plunge in icy cool fresh water.

Along the River Cetina are two restaurants which can be reached by ferry from Omiš (for about 35 kunas pp). Radmanove Mlinice is about 4 miles upstream and Restoran Kaštil Slanica, a mile further.

Radmanove Mlinice
Tel: 021 862 073

Restoran Kaštil Slanica
Tel: 021 861 783

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