Beautiful square right in the centre of the old palace walls, with cathedral lit up at night. We passed through at about 11pm and there were loads of people sitting on cushions on the stone steps listening to a woman with guitar accompaniment who was singing from a bar, and waiters were coming round to take drink orders - perfect ambiance in magical setting!

right next to cathedral

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Almost every village and town along the Croatian Coastline has a summer festival of some sort, in July or August or both. Omis, half an hour's drive from Split is one of the heartlands of traditional Klapa music and has a festival devoted exclusively to it every summer. It’s multi part harmony singing, normally male only and without accompaniment, and the sweet stirring tones of the harmonies belie the physique of the singers.

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