Forget the Tropicana - if you want the most authentic Cuban music experience in Havana go to the Casa de la Musica. This is where the Cubans come to go out. Arrive early, get a table, get a bottle of rum and then watch the place erupt as the tables are thrown aside and the salsa begins.

Casa de la Música “Miramar”.
Avenida 35 esq. a 20, Miramar

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Cafe O'Reilly is an atmospheric little cocktail bar with some good live bands.

203 San Ignacio

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There is nothing better in Havana than sitting in the Cathedral Square. There's a fabulous cafe with white umbrellas. Drink the mojitos and enjoy watching the world go by. It's one of the best views in the city.

In front of the old cathedral in central Havana

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Music. Atmosphere. Forget tourist traps like the Floridita, even though it's a good place to start. Proceed a short walk south to the Bar Monserrate on the eponymous street, or east on Obispo to Lluvia de Oro, Cafe de Paris or two small bars on the south side of the street, the first Escabeche, the name of the second one escapes me, for cheaper drinks, better atmosphere and great music. Obispo is fun in the daytime too.

Bar Monserrate is on Avenida de Belgica, near Calle Obrapia

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Rooftop Bar with live Cuban music and beautiful views over Havana at night.

Parque Central

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It's a typical bar in La Habana Vieja (Old Havana), where the first daiquiri was made, years ago. The daiquiri is a delicious drink made of rum, lemon juice and tons of ice!

Obispo No.557 esq. a Monserrate, Habana Vieja, Ciudad de La Habana, Cuba;
tel: (53-7) 867 1300

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Just 20 minutes by taxi from Old Havana there are perfect Caribbean beaches – fine white sand and inconceivably turquoise water — which are the perfect escape from the heat of city. There are a few beach bars serving decent fried fish, etc. Swimming pools are a rarity in Havana, but there is a good one in the lovely Hotel Sevilla — cocktails available.

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Great bar on Obispo, one of the main thoroughfares in Habana Vieja (old town), great all-girl band in mid-late afternoons with a relaxing atmosphere, in the same street as the Hotel Ambos Mundos which contains Hemingway's room (no. 52). Also, there is an excellent bar in Calle O'Reilly, nearby - don't worry, it's not an Irish bar!

Calle Obispo 316, esquina de Calle Aguiar, Habana Vieja;
tel: 7-862-9870

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A little off the beaten track. In the midweek it's full of locals, very cheap to get in and to drink, and amazing bands. Seems the place Cubans go to meet people of the opposite sex. Best thing we did in Cuba

Ave. 20 No. 3308 esq. a 35, Miramar, Havana, Cuba

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The Parque Central area is the place to stay when visiting Havana. A cheaper alternative to the Parque Central Hotel is the adjoining Hotel Plaza, which was built circa 1905 and has since been renovated, with a marvellous entrance and lobby. Rooms are small and dark, but you only use them for sleeping. No pool but you can use the one down the street at the Hotel Sevilla for a few CUCs (1.08 $ U.S.) One should visit the rooftop dining room at the Sevilla, have a drink at the sidewalk cafe of the Inglaterra, and see what's happening on the Inglaterra roof, Friday or Saturday (all within 1 minute from the hotel). The roof of the Plaza gives the best view of the Bacardi building just to the east. The Sevilla and the Telegrafo are intermediate in quality and price, between the Plaza and the Parque Central. Also, it’s very close to the two art museums (don't miss the modern one of Cuban art, in between the Sevilla and the Museum of the Revolution).

Ingnacio Agramonte 267, Habana Vieja, Havana, in the north east corner of Parque Centrale, adjacent to Hotel Parque Central. Food, drinks, bottled water, bank just across the street

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In the dodgy back street bars of Centro Havana, you can get two types of bottled beers. Unless, that is, they have the dispensada machine in for the night (basically a machine which serves draught beer in glasses). Not only is it way cheaper than the bottles, it's much nicer and you always get all the locals in for the night, until the machine runs out of beer. Next night, it will be in another bar - just ask where it is for the evening and you'll get pointed in the right direction. You'll probably see the same bunch of locals as the night before - good for striking up a few local friendships...

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