If you want to see the unofficial take on contemporary Cuba, go to see the Cuban collection in the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, just behind the revolutionary museum.

Artists have consistently been given more freedom of expression in revolutionary Cuba so, apart from seeing some really accomplished contemporary art, you get an idea of what Cubans really think about the revolution, both the positive and the negative.

Calle Trocadero, e/ Zulueta y Ave. de Belgica, Havana, between Parque Central and the revolutionary museum
Tel +53 7 8613858.

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Near to the Parque Maceo is Callejón de Hamel, an alleyway covered with brightly coloured murals, sculptures and shrines that pay testament to the city’s AfroCuban culture. Enjoy a strong black coffee from the tiny café, check out the gallery selling works by revered Cuban artist, Salvador Gonzalez, or watch local residents play a game of chess. Come on a Sunday morning and you might be lucky enough to catch the participants of a Santeria ceremony dancing, singing and invoking their orishas or spirits.

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