Near to the Parque Maceo is Callejón de Hamel, an alleyway covered with brightly coloured murals, sculptures and shrines that pay testament to the city’s AfroCuban culture. Enjoy a strong black coffee from the tiny café, check out the gallery selling works by revered Cuban artist, Salvador Gonzalez, or watch local residents play a game of chess. Come on a Sunday morning and you might be lucky enough to catch the participants of a Santeria ceremony dancing, singing and invoking their orishas or spirits.

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