The Nacional - where else would one stay? The perfectly concocted mojito served on the terrace with the warm breeze off the Gulf of Mexico was a travel moment to savour. Also Hotel Ingleterra is a safe, central bet. Unlike most places in Havana it has the merit of not being on the Ernest Hemingway circuit.

Both in central Havana;
www.hotelnacionaldecuba.com;
www.hotelinglaterracuba.com

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Newly renovated hotel in the middle of the old town - beautiful old courtyard and rooms. Not cheap, but costs less and is much nicer than something like the Nacional - and a good option if you need to book a hotel for the first few nights for visa reasons. Staff are a bit Fawlty Towers but it's quite atmospheric and comfortable. Big cigar shop, and peacocks, for some reason.

Calle Mercaderes, Habana Vieja.

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