Don’t be taken in by the apparent sophistication of Cuba’s beautiful, historic hotels – the restaurants are nearly always a let down. Best to have a pre-dinner cocktail in one of the atmospheric old bars, then go and eat in a paladar, a family-run restaurant inside the homes of ordinary families – a uniquely Cuban phenomenon. Food is homemade and fresh. Leave a big tip as they pay high taxes.

Apart from the famous La Guarida, some of the best are: Cocina de Lilliam (Calle 48 #1311, Miramar, +7 209 6514); Casa de Adela (Calle F #503, Vedado, +7 832 3776); Le Chansonnier (Calle J #257, Vedado, +7 832 1576). Book ahead.

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Widely regarded as the best paladare in Havana (if not Cuba), La Guardia certainly doesn't disappoint. It is a restaurant that is located in a beautiful private home and boasts a fantastic menu. Booking is essential as it is quite small but very popular. We had the receptionist at our hotel (the very nice Sevilla in Old Havana) to call and book us a table. The walls are decorated with photos of previous patrons (not as tacky as it sounds), inlcuding Queen Sofía of Spain, Prince Albert of Monaco, Jack Nicholson, Steven Spielberg and Pedro Almodovar. The chair that Queen Sofia sat on is mounted on the wall.

It is located in central Havana, in a residential area. A taxi there is recommended. On approach to the building you may not think that you are not in the right place as there are no signs. You will walk (or may be escorted by a young boy for a couple of CUC) into a beautiful representation of Cuban shabby chic with huge sweeping marble staircases and wall murals. I think the restaurant is on the second floor. Stunning food, great decor, wonderful staff. Not only the best paladare in Havana, but from my experience the best restaurant. Very highly recommended.

Calle Concordia 418, Between Calles Gervasio and Escobar, Centro Habana;
tel: 537- 624940;
www.laguarida.com (in Spanish, has some photos);
Guardian review: travel.guardian.co.uk/countries/story/0,,1587466,00.html

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Restaurant reviews of Havana inevitably mention the Floridita, where Hemingway sank an epic number of Daiquiris and it is this - rather than the cuisine or value-for-money - that is its primary claim to fame (the same applies to the Bodeguita del Media but in that case it was an epic number of Mojitos). If you were to order a pizza at the Floridita what you won't realise is that these are made in the kitchens of Il Gentiluomo, which it adjoins round the back.

Far better to go there to start with, watch your pizza being made and ideally be entertained by a fabulous quartet while you're waiting (just as well as the service is fairly glacial; ask them to play 'Oye Como Va' or 'Chan Chan', rather than the more stereotypical fare). You'll save 30-50% over the Floridita's prices and be able to see what you're eating!

behind El Floridita, on Calle Obispo

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