A walking tour of old Havana, consisting of majestic churches, forts, mansions, an original 18th century perfumerie and a pharmacy is a must, especially the visit to the rum factory. Visit Castel Morro, next to the statue of Christ and Che Guevera's house.

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Music. Atmosphere. Forget tourist traps like the Floridita, even though it's a good place to start. Proceed a short walk south to the Bar Monserrate on the eponymous street, or east on Obispo to Lluvia de Oro, Cafe de Paris or two small bars on the south side of the street, the first Escabeche, the name of the second one escapes me, for cheaper drinks, better atmosphere and great music. Obispo is fun in the daytime too.

Bar Monserrate is on Avenida de Belgica, near Calle Obrapia

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