There isn't much 'stuff' in Cuba. With the exception of resort towns with tourist tack, Cuba is not a conventional shopping destination, unless you are searching for one very particular type of item: used books.
Used book stalls line the Plaza de las Armas in the old town of Havana, dusty piles of Cuban history books and biographies of Che and Fidel so big and solid they could be used as furniture. As a reflection of Cuban Communism's preference for education over consumption, the availability of books is a case in point.
On the spectrum of literary enterprises, a gem lies between Havana's outdoor stalls and the country's clean, somewhat sparse new bookshops: La Escalera, in the heart of Santiago de Cuba. The proprietors are some of the most popular men in the world - lining the grey, concrete walls of the slender space (more of a corridor than a shop) are the fistfuls of postcards, photographs, and flags visitors have sent from home-New Zealand, France, Norway, Argentina, Japan. The shop is a typical used bookshop in its creative uses of space, its piles of books with crumbling dust jackets, its large boxes and air of contented disarray. But it is the empty rum bottles festooning the top shelves (what, you thought shelves were for books?) the musical instruments, political posters, newspaper clippings, and literary detritus elbowing for space on every inch of wall and floor that breathe a unique identity into the shop. A single fluorescent bar behind a large poster of a laughing Che throws a weak blue light that stands no chance against the powerful Caribbean sun slanting in through the narrow front door.
The name 'La Escalera' means 'the staircase,' presumably in reference to the short staircase in the back of the corridor-shop which leads to what, from most angles within the shop, appears to be another wall.
For any used bookstore lover, this one is a dream come true, for no better reason than the proprietors. Friendly, engaging, and relaxed, they encapsulate Cuban lightheartedness and antiquarian bookstore charm. One or more of the gentlemen who run the shop will be seated on the staircase, or a plastic beach chair in front of it, smiling and laughing and posing for a photo in front of the wares before standing and effusively pressing the shop's business card into the palm of your hand, in the hopes that a postcard or photo will arrive from you one day.
In a country where access to the outer world is limited, the people rely on visitors to bring the world to them instead. In this small corridor-shop in a corner of Cuba, you can enjoy travelling through the pleasures of an old and dusty bookshop while the locals enjoy travelling through you for the duration of your visit.

265 Calle Jose Maria Heredia, between San Felix and Porfirio Valiente. Around the corner from Museo Provincial Bacardi Moreau
Google map: bit.ly/cvO5gb

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Lovely, lovely people. Clean, comfortable rooms. Great food. Great hospitality and very moderately priced ($20).

House located in the vicinity of La Maison, a kind of nightclub with fashion shows in the evening.

Address: Anacaona 107
e/ Aguilera y Taino
Terrazas de Vista Alegre
Santiago de Cuba
Telephone: +53-22-641970
Website: www.geocities.com/hospedajesantiago/HS_en.html

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Cycling in Cuba is a great way to get fit, get around, see lots & have an adventure! People are very friendly & helpful. Brings snacks if you are cycling! Staying in casa particulares will almost guarantee you get a good feed if you have your meals at the casa but the motels & hotels serve up less satisfying meals.

West of Santiago, Cuba is a remote, beautiful stretch to cycle with hardly any traffic, no Casa Particulares and not much food! Bring energy bars, peanuts etc from home. It's worth bringing a water filter as well since we could not buy mineral water at the motel we stayed at. There were lots of mosquitoes at night all along the coast so bring your insect rep. Some parts of the road next to the sea had been washed away but you'll be fine on a mountain bike everywhere. We had racing bikes and had to take it slow to avoid punctures but it was only stretches of 100 meters, no more. Happy cycling!

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You can undertake excursions/daytrips and explore the Sierra Maestra, go to the beach or Parque Bacanao from Santiago.

I recommend a trip to 'El Cobre' a pilgrim's church just outside of town (by taxi), well worth seeing and for a Christian a very impressive experience.

As for beaches ... there are many around with different characteristics ... though none have white sand and/or a great deal of infrastructure. Try 'Siboney'- the beach most frequented by tourists. Expect some hussling, or 'Mar Verde' or 'El Frances' all about half an hour's taxi ride from town.

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The music played in Santiago is mainly traditional Cuban music (Son, rumba, trova). Listen to it in the Casa de la Trova, which is open during the day or in the evening head to Patio de dos Abuelos, Cafe Cantante, El Rincon del Feeling or Casa de las Tradiciones.

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You should be aware that personal space for a Cuban is very different from ours and you may perceive their close approach as threatening. A firm 'no' is usually sufficient to keep things at bay.

All women - note that Cuban men are very, very complimentary and open in their admiration and approach. This is not meant to be disrespectful and the power to take things further is entirely with the ladies! Don't get frightened, just enjoy !!

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Homestay is THE way to go if you want to really get close to the Cuban people and culture. And my Spanish has come on really well with my trips to Cuba because the people are interested in talking to you and have the time to do so.

There is lots of help available these days with regard to investigating and even pre-booking homestays. Websites like www.cuba-junky.com provide lists of homestays and first information on the houses. And companies like www.takeyourtimetravel.com offer holidays in Cuba with homestay, pre-booked from the UK.

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This venue hosts a show, live music (Son and salsa) and dancing to recorded music after. It is located in the basement of Teatro Heredia (weekends only).

Airconditioned and therefore a nice place to go to especially in the summer.

You need to get your tickets before 7.00 p.m. on the door and that way find out if the venue is open to the public that day.

Teatro Heredia, Plaza de la Revolucion, Santiago de Cuba

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Friendly family run casa colonial located very centrally in Santiago de Cuba.

Well equipped rooms with stereo, fridge, ensuite. Daysi cooks great food!

Lose A. Saco No. 513 e\ Mayia,
Santiago de Cuba,
Telephone: 53 22

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The Santiago Festival (end of July) is a great experience, but it doesn't get started until 10/11pm, and continues well into the early hours. It involves many lavish parades with dancing and costumes, and there is a great party atmosphere. The only problem is that you need to get there early ( 8pm) to get a good seat.

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