Catch the surprisingly efficient bus to the terminal and forget all about hotels. On disembarking the bus you will be greeted by a group of locals beseeching you for your custom. Take a brief tour of their houses (known as casa particulares) and you will find beautiful Spanish colonial villas, some even based around beautiful central courtyards. This town is a Caribbean time-warp, and the whole town has been designated a Unesco heritage site.
The hospitality of your Cuban hosts is invariably great, and I defy anyone to find better food in Cuba than that on a well financed home table - huge roast fish, lobsters, goat and pork - far better than the shambolic state-run restaurants.
Cuba is so much more than Havana, and frankly nothing like Varadero. Head to Trinidad, eat with Cubans, take a horseride in the mountains and snorkel in the black coral - This is what it's all about.
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