Fifteen years ago, Czech friends advised us to visit this small medieval town, then untouched by communism or tourism, and situated in a curl of the Vltava river. The rose-brown castle appears above ancient buildings and includes a baroque theatre (retaining much of its original scenery and wardrobe)and a terraced garden with a new revolving outdoor theatre with summer performances.
We were both struck by the ancient atmosphere of this town, and returned to make sure it was all real.
Providing a more relaxed aspect of the Czech Republic after a few busy days in Prague, Cesky Krumlov is a refreshing getaway three to five hours south of the capital by bus and definitely not to be missed.
Follow the Vltava river 180kms south from Prague upstream into the gentle foothills of the Bohemian Forest towards the German border and find yet another truely exceptional Unesco World Heritage site. Cesky Krumlov is set in a tight loop of the Vltava, and dominated by an imposing castle built on sheer rock which gives stunning views over the medieval houses and narrow streets. The castle has a bear pit (complete with bears) and an historic theatre where original costumes are still worn for performances. The music festival in July and August attracts international performers; a modern art gallery exhibits works including those by Gerald Scarf, an intriguing photographic museum with images including Hitler's visit to the town during the war; these attractions are all discounted with a Cesky Krumlov card available from the tourist office. Well informed, multilingual town guides are very helpful and not expensive to hire for two or three hours. Despite some smart and expensive hotels (Hotel Ruze at the top of the town was configured from an ancient monastery), there are cheaper hotels and charming B&B's both within and outside the historic centre.
Families will love the canoeing on the winding river through gorges and the town itself but beware the diversions and salmon runs in the town which provide a bit of excitement to the unwary! And there are beautiful and undemanding walks in the gentle surrounding countryside and forest.
Fab self catering flat in a vaulted ground floor flat, middle of town, next to the river, access to garden which looks up at the castle tower. Full of character and art work. Lovely owner.
Where else can you stay in a tower? Ve Vezi is a great little pension at great prices; full of character and charm. The accommodation is fairly basic, though the room had a TV and fridge - for the price Ve Vezi is a bargain.
The pension is situated by the river right next to the Eggenberg brewery, which has its own pub and restaurant serving up their lovely beer and Czech staples. Within a couple of hundred yards you're in the thick of Cesky Krumlov's cobbled streets.
Marta the owner is fantastic and very helpful.
I would have no hesitation in recommending Ve Vezi.
Send your feedback or queries to email@example.com
Search Been there
Your tips about Cesky Krumlov