Take a day trip to the spa town - stroll around, drink the disgusting water, go for a meal and the best bit - walk in the woods above the town.

Get a bus from Prague bus station (Florenc), they go every half or three-quarter hours. The journey takes two hours. When you get there, get some bus tickets from the tabak at the town bus station. Ask for Kolonada, go for a stroll along it - about 1 hour. Have a meal there, then walk it off by taking the funicular Diana by the Pupp Hotel (goes every 15 minutes) and walking in the forest. Unless you know someone there, there isn't much else to do, unless it's the film festival, in which case it's very buzzy, but only then.

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This is an a amazingly immaculate late 60's hotel, which feels like being in 2001: A Space Odyssey. The Hotel Thermal has an open air thermal pool on the valley slope from which you can enjoy the incredible mini St. Petersburg, golden domed skyline.

www.thermal.cz
Tel 359 001 111

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You can get very cheap spa treatments in wonderful establishments ranging from the basic health institutions such as Lazni III, a huge sanatorium on the river with huge metal baths, mineral pools, saunas and swimming pools, to the luxurious Hotel Pupp - where all the celebreties stay during the Kalovy Vary Film Festival.

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