Balkan restaurant with a delightfully wacky interior – yes, those are upside down chairs you can see hanging from the ceiling! There’s also a gorgeous garden which is open in summer if you really can't cope with the riot of colour on the walls but the real attraction here is the food. The grilled octopus was beautifully presented and tasted delicious which came as something as a shock given this is a landlocked country. Despite being popular with Czech celebs like Karel Gott (their answer to Cliff Richard) and Oscar winning screenwriter/director Zdenek Sverak, the prices are reasonable – and the welcome is as warm as you would expect in the Mediterranean. I deeply regret having strolled past this place, assuming it must be as a tourist haunt – don’t make my mistake!
Újezd 33, Praha 1, Mala Strana
+420 257 212 388
Google map: bit.ly/17o6yw8
* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague
This church may be less well known than many in Prague, but inside it reveals the story of an act of great heroism from the days of World War II. Two Czech partisans, Jan Kubis and Jozef Gabcik, had assassinated the hated deputy Reich- Protector of occupied Bohemia and Moravia, Reinhard Heydrich. They were hiding out in the crypt along with five of their comrades when they were betrayed to the Gestapo by one of their own. There followed a three hour siege, during which 800 members of the SS and Gestapo were held at bay, until Kubis and Gabcik took their own lives. The crypt today is a compelling place to visit, with a strong sense of the events that unfolded there many years ago. There is a small museum and shop, and a film made by the Nazis with dramatic footage of Hitler attending the state funeral of Heydrich. At street level you can see the air vent with the surrounding stonework still scarred by the bullets that were fired at it in an attempt to dislodge the Czech partisans. It is also possible to follow the story to its final dreadful conclusion by visiting the village of Lidice, outside Prague – shortly after the assassination the anticipated reprisal took place there, the men shot, women and children deported to concentration camps and the village dynamited.
Petrin Tower is a great experience if you don't mind heights and steps. If walking up 299 steps fills you with horror you can take the funicular railway to the top. The views at the top will take your breath away, the whole of Prague city in every direction, your reward.
You might think the Art Deco Imperial Hotel is too posh for you and your kind but think again. I visited it after a hard day's work wearing shabby clothes and the staff didn't bat an eyelid (such a lack of snobbishness that is typical of all Czech people that I've encountered.) On the ground floor it has a beautiful cafe/bar decorated with Art Nouveau mosaics. Treat yourself to a cocktail and enjoy the splendour of your surroundings.
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