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St Nicholas Cathedral, Prague
Photo: Richard Jenkins

Czech list
Ian Traynor
Still the most stunning and beautiful city in central Europe, Prague is at its best in winter in the damp mists swirling off the river Vltava. Endlessly mysterious and jaw-droppingly exquisite. Try it in November or February, away from the crowds and the tourist hordes. Get lost in the little streets of the old town or the medieval cobbles of the Mala Strana (little quarter) beneath the omni-present castle.

Stride up Wenceslas Square towards the giant horse and imagine 1989, 200,000 people gathered here, the most gentle of revolutionaries celebrating their velvet victory.

In winter, the medieval Charles Bridge across the river is negotiable and can be experienced at its best, a bright sunny day with snow on the ground. The sprawling castle itself is a must. The majesty of St Vitus’s cathedral. The Old Town Square. Best of all is just to wander, the city centre is a good size to manage on foot.
Best view
Letna Hill
Spoilt for choice, but a useful tip is to head up to the top of Letna Hill on the north-west side of the river, north of the castle. From there you have a stunning panorama down the river of the bridges flanked by the castle on the right and the old and new towns on the left.

  1. Prague
  2. | view

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Best thing to do for free
Walk
Even when crowded with visitors, notably around Karlova street and the Charles Bridge connecting the old town to the little quarter, it is surprising how little detours from the main drag take you into relatively quiet and delightful squares and alleys.

  1. Prague
  2. | walk
  3. | free

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Where to watch the world go by
Old Town Square
One of the many cafes on the Old Town Square.

  1. Prague
  2. | watch the world go by

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Nighttime hangout
AghaRTA jazz club
In a thriving night scene, beware - according to taste - the ubiquitous sex, stag, and hen clubs. For a more sedate, but atmospheric taste of bohemian Prague nightlife, try the AghaRTA jazz club in the city centre where local musicians hang out most nights of the week.

Agharta jazz club, Krakovska 5, Nove Mesto, Prague 1; Tel: 222 211 275; Open: Club 7pm-midnight daily Concerts 9pm Jazz Shop 5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 7pm-midnight Sat, Sun; Admission: 100kc (no credit cards); www.agharta.cz/

  1. Prague
  2. | music
  3. | club

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Cultural highlight
The Laterna Magika
In a city where irony and theatre appear hardwired into its genetic makeup, the theatre where Vaclav Havel plotted the 1989 revolution ineffably captures the spirit of Prague through ingenuous performances combining mime, film, theatre, dance, and light.

Nova Scena, Narodni triad 4, Nove Mesto, Prague 1; Tel: 224 931 482; Open: Box Office 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; Tickets: 300-600kc (no credit cards); www.laterna.cz/

  1. Prague
  2. | culture
  3. | theatre

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Bring back
Bohemian glass
Prague is famous for the Bohemian glass industry going back to the middle ages. There is plenty of over-priced trash. But also interesting modern glass to be bought at bargain prices if you search.

  1. Prague
  2. | local speciality
  3. | shopping
  4. | souvenir

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What to avoid
Lager louts
British lager louts and the increasingly ubiquitous British stag or hen weekends. A wretched sight.

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Time for love
Kampa
The sandy, tree-lined waterfront at the Kampa on the Vltava under the castle is a lovely spot.

  1. Prague
  2. | romance

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Best-kept secret (till now)
Flea markets
Very good flea markets, but hard to find, unreliable in their timings, and rarely in the centre. Ask around, depending on the time of year. The Globe English language bookstore, coffee house and internet cafe, just outside the city centre, is the ideal place to ask about what's on.

Pstrossova 6; Tel: +420224 934 203; www.globebookstore.cz/

  1. Prague
  2. | secret
  3. | market

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The thing to eat
Roast duck, cabbage and dumplings
You can eat well in Prague these days, but cuisine is not the reason for visiting. On a cold winter's night, however, roast duck, fruity red cabbage and dumplings have a certain appeal.

  1. Prague
  2. | local speciality

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Green space
Letna park
The Letna park above the river.

  1. Prague
  2. | park

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Best ride
Tram
A clattering old tram running through the little quarter, down to and across the river is a cheap and efficient way of seeing the city. Also, take a boat trip down the river from the quaysides by the national theatre or Charles University.

Tram no.22 for the city from the Castle, tram no.91 for the historic tram from the Vystaviste in Prague & through Mala Strana, to the National Theatre, through Wenceslas Square, Namesti Republiky and back through Prague 7; Open: Historic Tram Sat and Sun and holidays from Easter to mid Nov, leaves Vystaviste every hour from 2pm-7pm, 40min ride; Tickets: 20kc for adults, 10kc for children.

  1. Prague
  2. | ride

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Keep the kids happy
City zoo
On the river to the north in Prague 7, the city zoo offers a decent day-out. The charming palace of Troja is next door also on the river and worth a peek.

Zoologicka zahrada v Praze U Trojskeho zamku 3, Troja, Prague 7; Tel: 296 112 230; Nearest metro: Nadrazi; Open: Jan, Feb, Nov, Dec 9am-4pm daily. Mar 9am-5pm daily. Apr-May & Sept-Oct 9am-6pm daily. June-Aug 9am-7pm daily; Admission: 80kc, 50kc children and students, 230kc family, under-3s free (no credit cards); www.zoopraha.cz/

  1. Prague
  2. | family

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Escape the crowds
Pruhonice park
On the south-eastern edge of the city, you should be able to find a quiet spot amid the 500 acres of Pruhonice park, at its best in spring.

  1. Prague
  2. | escape
  3. | park

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Film to see before I go
Closely Watched Trains
Czech New Wave classic from the 60s, directed by Jiri Menzel, the film is a poignant allegory about wartime resistance under Nazi occupation with pointed defiance of the then communist regime.

  1. Prague
  2. | film
  3. | film location

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... and the novel to read
Tales of the Little Quarter
Jan Neruda's Tales of the Little Quarter is steeped in Prague lore. Jaroslav Hasek's The Good Soldier Schweik is a hilarious romp and exploration of the Czech national character.

  1. Prague
  2. | books

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Where to eat (budget)
Kure V Hodinkach
Great beer and hearty Czech pork, duck, and chicken dishes for around €10.

Seifertova 26, Zizkov, just out of the centre; Tel: 420 2227 34212

  1. Prague
  2. | eating
  3. | budget

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Where to eat (moderate)
Cerny Kun
Good quality Czech food, excellent lamb, at around €20.

Vodickova 36, inside the Lucerna Palace; Tel: +420224212659

  1. Prague
  2. | eating

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Where to eat (posh)
Kampa Park
High-class international food on the riverside served with flair. Up to €60.

Na Kampe 8b; Tel: +420257532685; www.kampapark.cz/

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  2. | eating
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Where to stay (budget)
Prague Centre hotel
Perfectly decent, just out of the centre at around £50 per night for a double with breakfast.

Legerova 32

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  2. | accommodation
  3. | budget

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Where to stay (moderate)
Hotel Maximilian
A neat little hotel in a great location with a cheap and good French-style bistro next door. Around €120 for a double room.

Hastalska 14; Tel: +420225303111; www.maximilianhotel.com/

  1. Prague
  2. | accommodation

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Where to stay (posh)
Hotel Pariz
A sumptuous restored art deco pile in a central but quiet location, up to €300 for a double room.

: U Obecniho Dom 1; Tel: 222 195 195; Nearest metro: Namesti Republiky; www.hotel-pariz.cz/

  1. Prague
  2. | accommodation
  3. | posh

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Find out what's on
The Prague Post
English language weekly newspaper, available at kiosks and grocer’s in the city centre, has a decent listings of what’s on, where to eat, drink, and stay.

  1. Prague
  2. | events

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Get there from the airport
Airport transfer: get a taxi
A taxi will cost around €20 or you could take a bus to the city centre.

  1. Prague
  2. | transport

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Your tips about Prague

eating (68) | accommodation (49) | family (8)
culture (26) | budget (26) | transport (20) | architecture (17) | restaurant (16) | food (15) | cafe (14) | hotel (12) | beer (11) | historic site (10) | art (10) | more...

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