Balkan restaurant with a delightfully wacky interior – yes, those are upside down chairs you can see hanging from the ceiling! There’s also a gorgeous garden which is open in summer if you really can't cope with the riot of colour on the walls but the real attraction here is the food. The grilled octopus was beautifully presented and tasted delicious which came as something as a shock given this is a landlocked country. Despite being popular with Czech celebs like Karel Gott (their answer to Cliff Richard) and Oscar winning screenwriter/director Zdenek Sverak, the prices are reasonable – and the welcome is as warm as you would expect in the Mediterranean. I deeply regret having strolled past this place, assuming it must be as a tourist haunt – don’t make my mistake!

lukalu.cz/
Újezd 33, Praha 1, Mala Strana
+420 257 212 388
Google map: bit.ly/17o6yw8

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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This church may be less well known than many in Prague, but inside it reveals the story of an act of great heroism from the days of World War II. Two Czech partisans, Jan Kubis and Jozef Gabcik, had assassinated the hated deputy Reich- Protector of occupied Bohemia and Moravia, Reinhard Heydrich. They were hiding out in the crypt along with five of their comrades when they were betrayed to the Gestapo by one of their own. There followed a three hour siege, during which 800 members of the SS and Gestapo were held at bay, until Kubis and Gabcik took their own lives. The crypt today is a compelling place to visit, with a strong sense of the events that unfolded there many years ago. There is a small museum and shop, and a film made by the Nazis with dramatic footage of Hitler attending the state funeral of Heydrich. At street level you can see the air vent with the surrounding stonework still scarred by the bullets that were fired at it in an attempt to dislodge the Czech partisans. It is also possible to follow the story to its final dreadful conclusion by visiting the village of Lidice, outside Prague – shortly after the assassination the anticipated reprisal took place there, the men shot, women and children deported to concentration camps and the village dynamited.

www.pravoslavnacirkev.cz
Resslova 9a, 120 00 Praha 2, Czech Republic
+420 224 920 686
Google map: bit.ly/Z2hECq

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Petrin Tower is a great experience if you don't mind heights and steps. If walking up 299 steps fills you with horror you can take the funicular railway to the top. The views at the top will take your breath away, the whole of Prague city in every direction, your reward.

www.petrinska-rozhledna.cz/
Petřínské sady, 110 00 Praha 1, Czech Republic
+420 724 911 497
Google map: bit.ly/W11ZVQ

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You might think the Art Deco Imperial Hotel is too posh for you and your kind but think again. I visited it after a hard day's work wearing shabby clothes and the staff didn't bat an eyelid (such a lack of snobbishness that is typical of all Czech people that I've encountered.) On the ground floor it has a beautiful cafe/bar decorated with Art Nouveau mosaics. Treat yourself to a cocktail and enjoy the splendour of your surroundings.

www.hotel-imperial.cz/
Na Poříči 15
Praha 1, PSČ: 110 00
+420 246 011 600
Google map: bit.ly/Y1eejz

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Buy a Prague one day travel pass and rumble along on a number 22 tram from the National Theatre across the River Voltava. Then let the quaint funicular railway take the strain up Petrin Hill. Built in 1893 the Petrin Observation Tower is an Eiffel lookalike and sways slightly in the wind. You can go up by lift or climb the 299 wooden stairs on the outside to the viewing platform with its superb panorama over Prague. Stroll back to the city down through gardens and apple orchards. Two hours, all in, for a fiver.

www.petrinska-rozhledna.cz/
Petřínské sady, 110 00 Praha 1, Czech Republic
+420 724 911 497
Google map: bit.ly/W11ZVQ

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The "cultural hall" tour takes you around areas you would only see if you went to a number of concerts - there's some stunning art and architecture plus an interesting history.

www.obecnidum.cz/
náměstí Republiky 1090/5, 110 00 Praha 1-Staré Město, Czech Republic
+420 222 002 780
Google map: bit.ly/YDhjDf

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Mucha painted 20 huge canvases, inspired by the Czechoslovak and other Slav nations and with his trademark Art-Nouveau style. Monumental and stunning, with an excellent interpretive leaflet, see it while you can as they are destined for a permanent home, when Prague can agree where, and how to fund it.

www.ngprague.cz
Dukelských hrdinů 530/47, 170 00 Praha 7-Holešovice, Czech Republic
+420 224 301 122
Google map: bit.ly/WRdxtw

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The Czech Repulbic is just about the best in Europe for a self-planned walking trip. There is an amazing network of well-marked colour-coded footpaths across most of the country. Outside almost any railway station (and there are often railway stations in the smallest of villages) you'll find a sign indicating a variety of walking routes, with distances and likely times. And the routes, over hills and through forests and meadows, past castles and manor houses, up mountains and into old villages and towns, can be fantastic. Good walking maps (I found four different publishers) are widely available for much of the country at reasonable prices. And at the end of the day it's always been my experience that it was possible to find a guest house or cheap hotel in the village and a hearty dinner washed down with lots of pilsner beer.

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Prague has a surfeit of beer gardens set in various parks around the city, where small shacks sell cheap beer and wine to a laid-back crowd. One of the nicest and most romantic is in Letenské sade; with fantastic views over the city and often at least one person strumming a guitar there's no better place to enjoy a summer's afternoon. There is also an acclaimed restaurant housed in an impressive Neo-Renaissance château in the park should you feel like treating yourselves.

Nábřeží Edvarda Beneše, 170 00 Praha 7, Czech Republic
+420 221 714 444
Google map: bit.ly/Z9BkmX

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This is an excellent, authentic Czech bar/restaurant, out of the city centre, but not so far. You can eat your fill for a very modest outlay.

www.zlatyklas.cz
Plzeňská 609/9, 150 00 Praha 5-Smíchov, Czech Republic
+420 251 562 539
Google map: bit.ly/12AIg1j

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Starbucks, Costa, Paul: visitors to Prague can’t help noticing that the coffee giants have descended on the city. Thankfully though there are still plenty of cool indie cafes to discover including new kid on the block Prazirna.
The clue to Pražírna’s unique selling point is in its name, the Czech word for coffee roasting house. Yep, you guessed it – all their beans are roasted on the premises. As you would therefore expect, every possible kava variation is on the menu – Americano and cappuccino; flat white and filter, all at reasonable prices. Despite its stripped-down interior – the walls are unadorned brick apart from the odd arty black and white photo – this aspiring hip haunt somehow manages to be cosy rather than austere. There’s squishy seating on offer in its two spacious basement rooms as well as the usual hardbacked seats if you need to take advantage of the Wi-Fi and get on with some freelancing. The service is friendly and attentive but this remains a place you feel able to linger without ordering every five minutes.
The coffee itself is of course excellent quality, proffered on a small metal tray and served with a decent-sized tumbler of tap water. Don’t expect Starbucks style mega portions though: here at Pražirna, less is more. There are classic Czech winter warmers on offer too like medovina (a boozy hot tipple made from honey) and svařák (mulled wine) if you’re not a slave to caffeine.

All in all, Pražirna is a very welcome new addition to Prague’s indie café scene. I always leave there feeling full of beans.

kavarnaprazirna.cz/en/
Lublaňská 676/50, Prague 2
+420 720 385 622
Nearest metro/tram: I.P. Pavlova
Google map: bit.ly/W5Fcp1

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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If you’re planning a romantic winter break to Prague, be sure to check out one of the city’s outdoor ice-rinks. If you’re keen to get in touch with your inner Torvill (or Dean) then go to Ovocny Trh, a small square a short walk from Staromeskske Namesti, where you can whirl around the ice while admiring the pretty architecture of the Estates Theatre where Mozart’s Don Giovanni once premiered. While the rink not exactly huge there are skaters of all ages and abilities so you needn’t feel self-conscious if you’re more likely to stumble around than effortlessly glide. The best part? Skating is free and skate hire is a super reasonable 50kc for 60 minutes.

www.praha.eu/jnp/cz/home/zabava/sport/kam_vyrazit_na_brusle.html

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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The Red Room is a faintly grungy expat haunt just behind Karlovo Namesti replete with black sofas and dark corners for lounging. You don’t come here for the beer – they only have Staropramen and Hoegaarden on tap which any self-respecting Czech would turn their nose up at – but there’s an extensive range of cocktails if you prefer Long Island Tea to lager. The bar’s main draw is the music. Should you find yourself at a loose end at the end of your long weekend in the city and fancy seeing live acts in an intimate venue, the Red Room is the place to head for. Sunday is open mic night and the standard is refreshingly high. On my last visit I was treated to a French double bass player accompanied by a pal riffing away on clarinet and a British lady with an angelic voice belting out ballad standards like ‘Stand By Me’ as well as the usual mix of aspiring singer-songwriters. Should you need to take a break from the tunes there’s a backroom with a pinball machine and table football. Would-be performers should get there by 8.30pm to sign up for a slot.

www.redroom.cz/index.html
Myslikova 28, Prague 1
+420 222 520 084
Google map: bit.ly/X0psQE

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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Prague Castle is equally gorgeous in snow or sunshine. However, as with any popular tourist attraction, the crowds can be a little overwhelming at times. Ducking into one of the small galleries dotted around the site is one way of escaping the throngs of visitors as well as any inclement weather. The Prague Riding School’s current offering – a retrospective of Stanislav Kolibal’s work – is an engaging collection of abstract sculptures and barely touched canvases which both know-nothings and connoisseurs can enjoy. The highlight for me was the exact replica of Kolibal’s 1967 debut exhibition where his talent and range as an artist are already in ample evidence. The minimalism of the massive iron installations dominating the gallery’s main hall are neatly juxtaposed by the familiar imposing gothic outline of St Vitus Cathedral which can clearly be seen through the huge windows. There’s no need to buy a ticket for the whole site: you can just pay for entrance to the gallery without coughing up the required 250kc to do a tour of the cathedral.
On until 6 January 2013

www.kulturanahrade.cz/en/exhibitions/programme/programme/stanislav-kolibal-another-world-324.shtml
Pražský hrad, 119 08 Praha 1 Czech Republic
+420 224 373 531
Google map: bit.ly/ZkE7xO

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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If you’re keen to do more while on Old Town Square than take in the Astrological Clock, wander around the Christmas market and sample the mulled wine, make sure you pay a visit to the Czech Press Photo exhibition. This photojournalism competition, which takes place annually, spans two floors of the Old Town Hall and is an excellent way to get an insight into Czech society beyond beer and dumplings. Unsurprisingly the overall first prize was awarded to a shot capturing the national outpouring of grief following former Czech President Vaclav Havel’s death but the variety of images on display is impressive. Those which document contemporary Czech life are among the most interesting such as the shots of a zabijačka, or pig killing, the eighty six year old twins who wear identical clothing and the jockeys at the Velky Pardubice steepchase.

czechpressphoto.cz/en
Old Town Hall, Old Town Square
Google map: bit.ly/TXwa9N


* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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Bright and airy with a stripped-down interior that somehow still remains cosy, Mistral Café is a great choice if you want a restaurant which offers both international and Czech cuisine at prices that won’t break the bank in a super-convenient location: smack bang next to the only metro station in Prague’s Old Town (Staromeskska). There’s a great value daily lunch menu on the chalk board in Czech but all the staff speak English so get them to translate it if you want a palate-pleasing bargain. Somewhat unusually for the Czech dining scene, Mistral is child-friendly with a funky wendy house at the disposal of your little ones. This isn’t just a yummy mummy haunt though: the friendly service and laidback vibe make this place a hit with tourists and locals alike. There’s also a chance to experience some genuine Czech desserts – the trdelník you see offered on the Christmas markets sadly, like goulash, is a Hungarian interloper. Try bábovka – a marble sponge cake which every self-respecting local Grandma can whip up in a flash.

www.mistralcafe.cz/
Mistral Café, Valentinska 11/56, 110 00 Prague 1
+420 222 317 737
Google map: bit.ly/11FPH43

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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When sightseeing in Prague’s gorgeous Old Town, it’s tough to find somewhere for a coffee and a sit-down that isn’t a tourist trap. K4 is an underground student hangout – literally – housed in the basement of the Faculty of Arts on Celetna Street, a stone’s throw from Staromeskske Namesti. Push back the vast wooden door at number 20, descend the stairs on the left opposite the porter’s glass booth and you’ll find a cavernous collection of rooms replete with lounging undergrads pouring over their lecture notes or playing chess. Prices are super reasonable (as you would expect given the clientele) and there’s a small gallery too with free exhibitions featuring local up-and-coming artists. There’s no table service though – make your way to the bar in the back room and then take your pick from coffee, draught beer or a shot of that infamous Czech spirit Becherova to fortify you before continuing your wanderings.

galeriek4.cz/
Celetna 20, Prague 1
Google map: bit.ly/UQEFU5

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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We discovered cosy Café Calma on a recent visit to Prague and it became one of our favourite haunts. They served a good range of cakes and pastries, and the breakfasts were great, with excellent croissants. The café also serves proper meals, including decent vegetarian options. Eating at Café Calma was inexpensive and the staff were friendly and helpful. In summer you can sit outside and watch life go by in the adjacent square.

www.calma.cz
Kyjevská 527/2, 160 00 Praha 6-Dejvice, Czech Republic
+420 602 235 660
Google map: bit.ly/UOd7hZ

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The contemporary art gallery DOX takes its name from the ancient Greek word ‘doxa’ meaning ‘common belief’ or ‘popular opinion’. Don’t be fooled though: the exhibitions held in this relatively new space are anything but orthodox. Since opening to the public almost four years ago, featured works have included David Cerny’s infamous Entropa, a giant sculpture which controversially depicted Germany as an autobahn in the shape of a swastika and Bulgaria as a Turkish toilet as well as an eclectic range of paintings, installations and drawings by both emerging and established artists. It may be a little off the beaten track but still DOX remains the ideal place for visiting art lovers to check out what it means to be a 21st century Bohemian.

DOX, Poupětova 1, Prague 7
dox.cz/en/
Google map: bit.ly/YMaLEz

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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Should you find yourself taking a stroll in Letná Park – the one with the giant metronome where the huge statue of Stalin once stood – you might decide to grab a table in the beer garden and take in the fantastic view of the city. If however, it’s a decadent cake fix you need, head to the nearby Alchymista Cukrárna.
Alchymista is a fine example of the cukrárna, a Czech culinary institution best described as a cross between a French patisserie and Italian gelateria. If the weather’s sunny, sit outside in the beautifully kept garden and indulge yourself with a glass of rosé while tucking into a slice of something sweet. The range of coffee is excellent – devotees to the bean can pay a visit to the coffee museum next door – and there are also teas and homemade lemonade on the menu. Expect to pay 40 – 50 CZK for coffee and 50 – 70 CZK for cake. This is my favorite cafe in the Golden City and undoubtedly worth the trip to the neighbourhood. A real gem.

Alchymista Cukrárna, Jana Zajíce 7, 170 00 Prague 7
alchymista.cz
Google map: bit.ly/Sujffj

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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