A bit of a hidden gem, the grim street-level entrance belies the splendid interior, and an atmosphere which is reminiscent of the belle epoch.

The service is quite superb, which really stands out after a couple of days of Czech service, which can be surly. Have the Czech breakfast, which includes delicious apple cake. The English breakfast - toast and marmalade, baked beans and chopped up frankfurters, is only worth ordering for its comedy value.

As to Prague, being careful crossing the roads cannot be stressed enough. The drivers only stop on red lights (in theory) or if a pedestrian's corpse jams their wheels. Beware the trams, which are quiet and easily missed above the hubbub.

Try to get off the main streets at night, as the pimps, drug dealers, strip club and bar advertisers are utterly persistent and will follow you for long distances. Unless, of course, you are there for "sucky sucky" or the half price attentions of a lesbian midget.

One more thing: Large numbers of British stag groups are absolutely running riot there, and you can feel the resentment, even hatred, of many of the locals. If you are Prague-bound, start practising your Canadian accent now.

Narodni Trida 20, in the New Town.

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