Starbucks, Costa, Paul: visitors to Prague can’t help noticing that the coffee giants have descended on the city. Thankfully though there are still plenty of cool indie cafes to discover including new kid on the block Prazirna.
The clue to Pražírna’s unique selling point is in its name, the Czech word for coffee roasting house. Yep, you guessed it – all their beans are roasted on the premises. As you would therefore expect, every possible kava variation is on the menu – Americano and cappuccino; flat white and filter, all at reasonable prices. Despite its stripped-down interior – the walls are unadorned brick apart from the odd arty black and white photo – this aspiring hip haunt somehow manages to be cosy rather than austere. There’s squishy seating on offer in its two spacious basement rooms as well as the usual hardbacked seats if you need to take advantage of the Wi-Fi and get on with some freelancing. The service is friendly and attentive but this remains a place you feel able to linger without ordering every five minutes.
The coffee itself is of course excellent quality, proffered on a small metal tray and served with a decent-sized tumbler of tap water. Don’t expect Starbucks style mega portions though: here at Pražirna, less is more. There are classic Czech winter warmers on offer too like medovina (a boozy hot tipple made from honey) and svařák (mulled wine) if you’re not a slave to caffeine.

All in all, Pražirna is a very welcome new addition to Prague’s indie café scene. I always leave there feeling full of beans.

kavarnaprazirna.cz/en/
Lublaňská 676/50, Prague 2
+420 720 385 622
Nearest metro/tram: I.P. Pavlova
Google map: bit.ly/W5Fcp1

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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Bright and airy with a stripped-down interior that somehow still remains cosy, Mistral Café is a great choice if you want a restaurant which offers both international and Czech cuisine at prices that won’t break the bank in a super-convenient location: smack bang next to the only metro station in Prague’s Old Town (Staromeskska). There’s a great value daily lunch menu on the chalk board in Czech but all the staff speak English so get them to translate it if you want a palate-pleasing bargain. Somewhat unusually for the Czech dining scene, Mistral is child-friendly with a funky wendy house at the disposal of your little ones. This isn’t just a yummy mummy haunt though: the friendly service and laidback vibe make this place a hit with tourists and locals alike. There’s also a chance to experience some genuine Czech desserts – the trdelník you see offered on the Christmas markets sadly, like goulash, is a Hungarian interloper. Try bábovka – a marble sponge cake which every self-respecting local Grandma can whip up in a flash.

www.mistralcafe.cz/
Mistral Café, Valentinska 11/56, 110 00 Prague 1
+420 222 317 737
Google map: bit.ly/11FPH43

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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When sightseeing in Prague’s gorgeous Old Town, it’s tough to find somewhere for a coffee and a sit-down that isn’t a tourist trap. K4 is an underground student hangout – literally – housed in the basement of the Faculty of Arts on Celetna Street, a stone’s throw from Staromeskske Namesti. Push back the vast wooden door at number 20, descend the stairs on the left opposite the porter’s glass booth and you’ll find a cavernous collection of rooms replete with lounging undergrads pouring over their lecture notes or playing chess. Prices are super reasonable (as you would expect given the clientele) and there’s a small gallery too with free exhibitions featuring local up-and-coming artists. There’s no table service though – make your way to the bar in the back room and then take your pick from coffee, draught beer or a shot of that infamous Czech spirit Becherova to fortify you before continuing your wanderings.

galeriek4.cz/
Celetna 20, Prague 1
Google map: bit.ly/UQEFU5

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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We discovered cosy Café Calma on a recent visit to Prague and it became one of our favourite haunts. They served a good range of cakes and pastries, and the breakfasts were great, with excellent croissants. The café also serves proper meals, including decent vegetarian options. Eating at Café Calma was inexpensive and the staff were friendly and helpful. In summer you can sit outside and watch life go by in the adjacent square.

www.calma.cz
Kyjevská 527/2, 160 00 Praha 6-Dejvice, Czech Republic
+420 602 235 660
Google map: bit.ly/UOd7hZ

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Should you find yourself taking a stroll in Letná Park – the one with the giant metronome where the huge statue of Stalin once stood – you might decide to grab a table in the beer garden and take in the fantastic view of the city. If however, it’s a decadent cake fix you need, head to the nearby Alchymista Cukrárna.
Alchymista is a fine example of the cukrárna, a Czech culinary institution best described as a cross between a French patisserie and Italian gelateria. If the weather’s sunny, sit outside in the beautifully kept garden and indulge yourself with a glass of rosé while tucking into a slice of something sweet. The range of coffee is excellent – devotees to the bean can pay a visit to the coffee museum next door – and there are also teas and homemade lemonade on the menu. Expect to pay 40 – 50 CZK for coffee and 50 – 70 CZK for cake. This is my favorite cafe in the Golden City and undoubtedly worth the trip to the neighbourhood. A real gem.

Alchymista Cukrárna, Jana Zajíce 7, 170 00 Prague 7
alchymista.cz
Google map: bit.ly/Sujffj

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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I love this place, which offers much more than the name suggests, including baguettes and gâteaux and a wide selection of filling and tasty pastries. My favourite savoury snack is the totally un-pc Sýrový šnek (literally "cheese snail"), a pastry spiral made with mozarella and gouda, making it slightly gooey. The sweet pastries are excellent too!
Rembrandt Donuts is a little more expensive than the average Prague bakery, but the higher prices are definitely worth it.
After 6pm, you can buy many items are at a reduced price. Some branches are little more than holes in the wall, but others have seating areas.

Branches include at and Jindřišká 24, Na Poříčí 31 and Spálená 16.
+420 224 230 253
Google map: bit.ly/O093KK

www.rembrandtdonuts.cz/Prodejny.html (branches)

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This café is a place of contrasts: a modern menu, hyper-technical coffee and trendy staff with media specs and funky haircuts are ‘off-set’ by sepia prints and old-world pictures and documents about the building in walnut frames. Floor-to-ceiling curtains and elegant arm chairs in the back room lend a luxurious, adult feel. It’s a splendid blend of the modern and historic, which given its location just under the Hunger Wall in the Lesser Quarter, is important.
The coffee at Café Lounge is really excellent, and available to take away. Unusually for Prague, the menu features a flat white (67 czk) - served in a glass tumbler, with a heart drawn into the foam and a delicate biscuit on the side. Other coffee offerings include vacuum press coffee (95/125 CZK for a tricky arrangement that involved what looked like a high-school chemistry kit) as well as the usual cappuccino and espressos. Coffees and teas are all served with a suduko game to attempt while you sip, which is a charming touch. Café Lounge also offers a very extensive food menu from breakfast through to snacks and main meals, as well as daily options.
Service is impressive. Knowledgeable, friendly but unintrusive. A great experience and well worth the visit for something a little smarter than usual.

www.cafe-lounge.cz
Plaská 615/8, 150 00 Prague 5
(+420) 257 404 020
Google map: bit.ly/HUJPuy

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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A rather surprising new, albeit temporary, addition to a previously bland building, the café on the ground floor of Veletrzni Palace seems more of a science laboratory than a traditional cafe. Large bowl-shaped test tubes and gargantuan funnels and filter papers combine to offer up fresh filter and siphon coffee brews. (From 70 czk for a filter coffee).
An incredibly modern cafe frequented by tourists and Prague hipsters - the perfect place to rest gallery-wearied feet.
Offers tea, coffee and a small range of sweet snacks.
Open throughout summer 2012.

www.ngprague.cz/en/5/sekce/veletrzni-palace/
Dukelských hrdinů 47, 170 00 Prague 7
Google map: bit.ly/HYoRvw

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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Prádelna Café has a laid-back, homely charm. Spending an hour or so there is like friend’s mum’s kitchen on a Saturday afternoon. Expect bare wooden tables, blue and white decor, dried lavender and massive windows facing the street.

Located 50m from Jiřího z Poděbrad metro station (on the green line), the “Laundry cafe“ is so named as the buidling previously functioned as a...laundry! Even today, the cafe retains that sort of friendly, clean efficiency you expect from a laundrette – the proporietor bakes cakes in the main room while taking orders and making cappucino. Prádelna offers a broad drinks menu and decent food options, including daily soups (from 38 CZK), pates (from 65 CZK), paninis (63 CZK) and homemade ice cream and desserts. Their fresh baked cakes come extremely highly recommended.

A great local business with friendly service.

pradelna-cafe.cz/onas.php
Slavíkova 21 , 120 00 Prague 2
+420 774 843 477
Google map: bit.ly/GIZtey

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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The design shop within the DOX Centre for Contemporary Art in Prague 7 stocks stunning glassware, porcelain, jewelry, lighting, furniture and other work by a number of leading contemporary Czech designers.
This bright white, airy, almost clinical space is a refreshing change to some of the more traditional Czech gift stores in central Prague and is still a great place to pick up a souvenir. How about a stylish Czech made mechanical pencil by Versatil or a Merkur construction set?
There’s a lovely café with outside seating, where you can admire your purchases afterwards. Oh yes, and a world class museum of contemporary art is downstairs. Just in case.

www.dox.cz/en/
DOX, Centre for Contemporary Art
Poupětova 1, Praha 7, 170 000
+420 774 145 434
Nearest tram: Ortenovo náměstí (trams 5, 10, 12, 15, 54)
Nearest metro: Nádraží Holešovice
Google map: bit.ly/zcl7y7

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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Part café, part shop, part postcard museum. Choco Café is definitely one for all chocoholics.
Set in the Old Town, Choco Café offers the widest variety of chocolate and chocolate drinks I have ever seen. Its offerings include chocolate with quinoa or pineapple and hot chocolate served with ginger or chili.
Be prepared, the hot chocolate is pretty much just melted chocolate – rich, smooth and thick enough to stand a spoon in. 55 CZK for the standard. Whipped cream and other ingredients such as chili, fruit, and alcohol are extra.
Choco Café accommodates non-chocolate fanatics as well, offering a small non-chocolate menu including teas, and some food. A good central lunch stop.
Café Chocolate also operates as a postcard museum and shop and a chocolate shop. It sells some of the most beautifully presented chocolate bars you’ll ever see – mainly by Italian chocolate company Stainer. Each wrapper is a work of art in itself, and the chocolate is delicious.
Cosy and snug in the winter. The back opens onto a small garden for fresh air in the summer.

www.choco-cafe.cz/
Liliová 4/250, Praha 1, 110 00
+420222222519
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 10:00 – 20:00
Nearest metro: Staroměstská or Mustek
Google map: bit.ly/tTlXuf

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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The name Čajovna Ve Věži (the tearoom in the tower) gives you a fairly big clue as to what to expect. A tea room right at the top of the remarkable tower at the edge of Letna park. The whole way up, you will be wondering if you have come to the right place. Don’t worry, you have. Just keep going right to the top.
As well as a special location, Čajovna Ve Věži's boasts a lovely herbal smell throughout and a cosy ambience - decor includes mismatched chairs and tables, Persian rugs, a large Buddha and several small oriental wall hangings. Like a favourite teddy bear, everything looks a little tired but well loved.
The menu is only available in Czech, although as most teas have Japanese or Chinese names, this is not too tricky. Staff speak some English but a phrase book might be useful.
Čajovna Ve Věži offers over 80 teas (from 40 to 115 CZK) from India, China, Japan, Turkey, Nepal, Vietnam and Tibet, as well as some fruit teas and non-caffeinated teas. A small selection of soft drinks is also available, as well as wine.
Light snacks are also offered – nuts (from 30 CZK), sandwiches (35 CZK), corn on the cob (44 CZK) and sushi (85 CZK).
Slightly slow service is more than compensated for by the location, atmosphere, and the excellent teas.

www.dojo.cz/cajovna/rozvrh/index_eng.html
Na výšinách 1/Korunovační, Prague 7
+420 724 593 215
Nearest tram: Sparta (trams 1, 5, 8, 25 or 26).
Open 16:00 - 22:00 in winter and 17:00 - 23:00 in the summer.
Google map: bit.ly/vbodTC

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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Don't let the fact that Dobrá Čajovna is located on tourist-heavy Wenceslas Square dissuade you. Credited with being the lynchpin of the 1990s revival of Czech tea houses, Dobrá Čajovna is a refreshing change from some of the other international or tourist-priced options in the area. Tucked away off Wenceslas Square, it is hidden from view in a little courtyard, the entrance to which is marked by a discreet sign. It is a quiet, still haven, not drowned out by the hustle and bustle of Prague’s main street.
The menu (available in English and Czech) is fantastically informative and includes over eighty loose-leaf teas. With a three or four line description of each tea, the menu reads more like a novel and includes “a good tea to drink whilst reminiscing” (The Calling for Nepal), tea that is “suitable for drinking when returning from a walk in the park at twilight”, (Silver Monkey’s Paw), and tea “for a quiet meeting with close friends” (Sencha Kyoto). Dobrá Čajovna also has a small food menu offering snacks such as nuts and Japanese rice crackers. Savoury dishes including couscous and hummus are also available. Soft drinks are offered and are, happily, limited to exotic sounding chilled fruit juices – no crowd-pleasing Coca-Cola!
Dobrá Čajovna has inside seating as well as an outside area with bamboo sun umbrellas, low tables and stools, and is non-smoking throughout. Excellent service - attentive and very well informed.
Dobrá Čajovna also has a shop selling leaf teas, teapots and cups.

www.tea.cz/cajovna/
Václavské Náměstí 14, 11100 Prague 1
Open Mon-Fri 10:00 to 21:30, Sat-Sun 14:00 to 21:30
Nearest metro: Mustek
Google map: bit.ly/uKditw

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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MamaCoffee is a great example of the growing interest in Fair Trade in the Czech Republic. With five branches in Prague, MamaCoffee was the first Fair Trade coffee roaster in Central Europe and it is fair to say, remains one of the most popular.
Its largest café on Vodičkova off Wenceslas Square is always busy, its two stories frequented by locals, expats and tourists alike. Table service is offered by helpful staff who are will offer advice on their range of Ethiopian, Honduran and other coffee beans and Fair Trade Teas, which are all also available to buy. They are also happy to leave you to relax, or work on your laptop (offering free Wi-Fi upstairs).
MamaCoffee offers good quality snacks – cakes, brownies and sandwiches. I had the best spinach quiche of my life here, which was an unexpected perk.
Floor to ceiling windows and a non-smoking policy make this a lovely, bright place to relax or work, and offers high quality Fair Trade coffee at reasonable prices.

www.mamacoffee.cz/
Vodickova 6, Prague 1
Nearest metro: Mustek
Nearest Tram 3, 9, 14, 24 or 91 (to Vodickova)
Mon - Fri: 8:00 - 22:00, Sat - Sun: 10:00 - 22:00
Google map: bit.ly/vgIibU


* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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This cute café in Prague 2 has a range of attractions: newsagents (“trafika”), shop and tobacconists up front, with café behind, piano in the corner, occasional music events and small vinoteka.
Like a much-loved teddy bear, local favourite Dobra Trafika is a little worn around the edges, which makes local residents love it even more.
The menu includes several pages of teas and coffees, cakes and delicious stuffed pitta breads, at cheap-as-chips prices.
Delightfully scruffy, living-room-cosy and great value.

www.dobratrafika.cz
Korunní 42, 120 00 Praha 2
+420 737907635
Nearest metro: Jiriho z Podebrad
Cafe open Mon-Fri from 7.30, Sat from 8.00, Sun from 9.00, until 23.00 each day.
Google map: bit.ly/qG6G2d

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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Czech tea houses are a relatively recent development. Local legend claims that a good cuppa was unheard of in the Czech capital until 1848 when Russian anarchist Mikhail Bakunin requested tea in a Prague café and was met with blank faces.
Fast forward 150 years and the tea drinking, which took off at the end of the 19th century but subsided under the communist regime, has flourished once more. Prague boasts innumerate independent čajovny as well as one small tea chain, each with distinct character and appeal but all offering a wonderfully relaxed environment in which to while away a few hours.
Čajovny serve čaj in abundance – fresh loose teas from across the globe. Most offer extensive menus (around 60-80 tea varieties is a standard) and some offer hookah with flavored tobacco.
Čajovny are casual, hippified places, popular with Czech students, offering a relaxed, chilled-out vibe. A great antidote to an afternoon of sightseeing!

My favourites include:
Dobra Čajovny on Wenceslas Square – www.tea.cz/cajovna/
Nearest metro: Mustek or Muzeum

Tea in the Tower
www.dojo.cz/cajovna/rozvrh/index_eng.html
Na výšinách 1 / Korunovační Prague 7
Nearest Tram: Sparta (1,5,8, 25 or 26)

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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This modern, cheerful café in Vinohrady is very close to the National Museum. Bright, airy and colourful, when you walk inside you will feel like you’ve stepped back in time.
A very fresh interior with blocks of pastel colours on the walls is complemented by genuine Art Deco tables, chairs and light fittings.
Attracting Prague’s young hipsters, this café is a great place to relax any time of day, offering a good breakfast menu (including excellent scrambled eggs), salads, toasted sandwiches, pastries and generous portions of cake. Kaaba also offers an excellent range of coffee and other soft drinks and has a well-stocked bar.
Offers free WiFi and friendly staff.

www.kaaba.cz
Mánesova 20, Prague 2 - Vinohrady
+420 / 222 25 40 21
Mon- Fri from 8am, Sat from 9am and Sun from 10am
Nearest Tram – No. 11 Italská
Nearest Metro – Namesti Miru
Google map: bit.ly/oonky9


* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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When you step into Café Louvre on Národní, it is as if you step back in time. Opened in 1902, Louvre has always ranked highly in Czech kavarna culture. For a time it was the meeting ground of philosophy groups whose members included Franz Kafka and Max Brod. Many key players in the European literary scene of the early twentieth century spent time here, including Czech the Čapek brothers and Otto Pick.
Although the café closed for several years under the communists, its interior underwent considerable reconstruction in the 1990s. Today visitors will still get a feel of the grandiose café scene that existed at the beginning of the last century, as they walk up the wide staircase with marble walls and an iron handrail. The main room of the café, overlooking Národní below, boasts high ceilings, large windows and huge mirrors, which makes this one of the most splendid locations to drink caj or kava in the whole of Prague.
Louvre does offer full savoury meals, including soups, salads and pancakes. However, the best reason for a visit is the magnificent coffee and cake menu. Their homemade cakes, strudels and waffles will satisfy even the sweetest tooth – the blueberry cake on linz dough with vanilla ice-cream (65 CZK) keeps me coming back again and again.
An impressive drinks menu makes Louvre a winter time favourite – hot chocolate with rum and whipped cream (59 CZK) will keep you warm when it’s cold outside.
For good quality coffee and dessert set in historic opulence, look no further.

www.cafelouvre.cz/
Národní 22, Praha 1, 110 00
+420 224 930 949
Nearest metro: Narodni Trida or Mustek
Nearest tram: Narodni Trida (6, 9, 18, 21, 22 or 91)
Mon-Friday: 08.00 to 23.30
Sat-Sun: 0900 to 23.30
Google map: bit.ly/mQerhN


* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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Prague is full of places claiming to have been frequented by Kafka, Max Brod and the like,
but in Café Montmartre you really believe it.
Walking through the door is like stepping back in time (aside from the laptops set out by the
modern crowd who now sit where Kafka used to) to the beginning of the twentieth century,
when the café regularly held literary events, debates and dances. Founded in 1911, the café
was closed in 1937 and only reopened fairly recently. Great care has been taken to recreate
the kavarna’s original character, with kitch, mismatched chairs, threadbare sofas and faded
photographs of the original clientele.
Good coffees and cakes and a well-stocked bar, for reasonable prices in the city centre. This
cosy gem will appeal to those looking for something authentic and not too sterile.

Řetězová 7, Prague 1
+42(0)222 221 244
Google map: bit.ly/qEjxTb

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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If you fancy brunch with the girls a la Sex and the City, Café Amandine might be right up your street. Not the cheapest but not eye wateringly expensive and certainly one of the loveliest.
The purple and green boutique interior is lovely, and the pastries excellent. Service could be quicker, but you’re here to linger so it doesn’t really matter.
Breakfast and brunch set menus are available every day, including “Parisienne” (croissant and coffee) or “Bonne Santé” (Greek yoghurt and muesli), as well as an a la carte menu offering a good variety of eggs – scrambled, poached and boiled. Café Armandiene also offers a weekend brunch special – a glass of something fizzy, coffee or tea, juice, and mini viennoiseries, eggs and breads for 295 CZK.
Quiche, tartines, sandwiches, hot dishes, salads, pancakes and blinis are also available throughout the day.

www.cafeamandine.cz‎
Na Moráni 1689/17, 120 00 Praha 2 - Nové Město, Czech Republic
+420222524305
Google map: bit.ly/q8Z7wW

Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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