Czech Republic
You might think the Art Deco Imperial Hotel is too posh for you and your kind but think again. I visited it after a hard day's work wearing shabby clothes and the staff didn't bat an eyelid (such a lack of snobbishness that is typical of all Czech people that I've encountered.) On the ground floor it has a beautiful cafe/bar decorated with Art Nouveau mosaics. Treat yourself to a cocktail and enjoy the splendour of your surroundings.
www.hotel-imperial.cz/
Na Poříči 15
Praha 1, PSČ: 110 00
+420 246 011 600
Google map: bit.ly/Y1eejz
The Red Room is a faintly grungy expat haunt just behind Karlovo Namesti replete with black sofas and dark corners for lounging. You don’t come here for the beer – they only have Staropramen and Hoegaarden on tap which any self-respecting Czech would turn their nose up at – but there’s an extensive range of cocktails if you prefer Long Island Tea to lager. The bar’s main draw is the music. Should you find yourself at a loose end at the end of your long weekend in the city and fancy seeing live acts in an intimate venue, the Red Room is the place to head for. Sunday is open mic night and the standard is refreshingly high. On my last visit I was treated to a French double bass player accompanied by a pal riffing away on clarinet and a British lady with an angelic voice belting out ballad standards like ‘Stand By Me’ as well as the usual mix of aspiring singer-songwriters. Should you need to take a break from the tunes there’s a backroom with a pinball machine and table football. Would-be performers should get there by 8.30pm to sign up for a slot.
www.redroom.cz/index.html
Myslikova 28, Prague 1
+420 222 520 084
Google map: bit.ly/X0psQE
* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague
When sightseeing in Prague’s gorgeous Old Town, it’s tough to find somewhere for a coffee and a sit-down that isn’t a tourist trap. K4 is an underground student hangout – literally – housed in the basement of the Faculty of Arts on Celetna Street, a stone’s throw from Staromeskske Namesti. Push back the vast wooden door at number 20, descend the stairs on the left opposite the porter’s glass booth and you’ll find a cavernous collection of rooms replete with lounging undergrads pouring over their lecture notes or playing chess. Prices are super reasonable (as you would expect given the clientele) and there’s a small gallery too with free exhibitions featuring local up-and-coming artists. There’s no table service though – make your way to the bar in the back room and then take your pick from coffee, draught beer or a shot of that infamous Czech spirit Becherova to fortify you before continuing your wanderings.
galeriek4.cz/
Celetna 20, Prague 1
Google map: bit.ly/UQEFU5
* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague
Red Pif is a wine shop, wine bar and restaurant, tucked away in the crooked streets in Betlémská, in Prague Old Town. An urban feel establishment, Red Pif is quite modern in terms of Czech vinny bars (wine bars) and offers an interesting blend of Czech and French influences.
As well as a long and detailed wine list, Red Pif offers a daily food menu including varied meat and fish main courses as well as charcuterie plates for sharing.
Not the cheapest place to drink in Prague (many wines are around 60 czk for a small glass, and there is a corkage charge of 100 czk for drinking in-house), but certainly one of the most trendy. Book ahead – Red Pif only has about 10 tables for diners, and is deservedly busy throughout the week.
www.redpif.cz
Betlémská 267/9, 110 00 Praha-Staré Město, Czech Republic
+420 222 232 086
Nearest metro: Narodni Trida
Nearest tram: 17 or 18 (to Karlovy lázně)
Google map: bit.ly/KXPPBO
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
The name Čajovna Ve Věži (the tearoom in the tower) gives you a fairly big clue as to what to expect. A tea room right at the top of the remarkable tower at the edge of Letna park. The whole way up, you will be wondering if you have come to the right place. Don’t worry, you have. Just keep going right to the top.
As well as a special location, Čajovna Ve Věži's boasts a lovely herbal smell throughout and a cosy ambience - decor includes mismatched chairs and tables, Persian rugs, a large Buddha and several small oriental wall hangings. Like a favourite teddy bear, everything looks a little tired but well loved.
The menu is only available in Czech, although as most teas have Japanese or Chinese names, this is not too tricky. Staff speak some English but a phrase book might be useful.
Čajovna Ve Věži offers over 80 teas (from 40 to 115 CZK) from India, China, Japan, Turkey, Nepal, Vietnam and Tibet, as well as some fruit teas and non-caffeinated teas. A small selection of soft drinks is also available, as well as wine.
Light snacks are also offered – nuts (from 30 CZK), sandwiches (35 CZK), corn on the cob (44 CZK) and sushi (85 CZK).
Slightly slow service is more than compensated for by the location, atmosphere, and the excellent teas.
www.dojo.cz/cajovna/rozvrh/index_eng.html
Na výšinách 1/Korunovační, Prague 7
+420 724 593 215
Nearest tram: Sparta (trams 1, 5, 8, 25 or 26).
Open 16:00 - 22:00 in winter and 17:00 - 23:00 in the summer.
Google map: bit.ly/vbodTC
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
Upon entering Sudička, a subterranean restaurant in Prague 2, you’ll be glad you knew to come in and didn’t pass straight by. This warmly glowing, inviting gem of a place is almost entirely hidden from pavement level – some small windows around ankle level are all that give it away.
Sudička offers an intimate, cosy space for drinks or dinner, lit by candles and low lighting.
The menu is creative, with a range of excellent salads (my favourite is smoked salmon with strawberries), cheese specialties including raclette and fondue and heartier dishes to warm your cockles throughout winter. Sudička boasts an impressive wine list (including several by the glass) as well as a particularly wide range of teas.
Lovely staff and very reasonable prices complete the experience.
www.sudicka.cz/
Nitranská 1355/7, 130 00 Praha 3
+420 222 511 609
Opening houses described as Monday - Saturday from 3:33 pm to 11:33 pm (mostly even longer) , which seems to cover most bases for evening dining!
Sunday closed
Nearest Metro:
Nearest Tram: 10 or 16 (Vinohradska vodarna) or 11 (Jiriho z Podebrad)
Google map: bit.ly/qIEtxs
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
Two minutes from the Old Town square but tucked away on a side street this place has everything - a restaurant, a wine bar, a café and a food shop.
On winter evenings it’s a lovely place to go with friends for wine of varying prices but consistently good quality. Many are available by the glass. During the summer, sit in the peaceful courtyard at the back of the restaurant for al fresco dining.
The evening menu is very good but the real bonus is the daily lunch menu - choose between two and three courses, with or without wine, and you will have change from 200CZK.
Expect European cuisine with a twist of Czech including duck, rabbit and dumplings.
Havelská 500/25, Praha 1
+420 226 006 122
www.uzavoje.cz/cz/
Nearest metro: Mustek
Google map: bit.ly/krtkqp
This underground jazz bar boasts fantastic live performances, and takes up several levels. The basement has cool stone walls with a high vaulted ceiling. Although the live performance had a cover charge it was well worth it, as the music lasted for hours. Drinks were a bit more expensive then other places but it was still relatively cheap at about £1 per beer. Also worth a try is the absinthe.
Corner of Stupartska, behind Tyn Church
Satre Mesto, Prague
This café is steeped in history and is one of the best coffee houses in Prague. There is a huge breakfast selection and the restaurant serves superb traditional Czech food. The summer terrace is also a really great way to imagine you’re in the company of Kafka, Capek and Einstein who all frequented here. We were staying at the hostel downtown, so it was the perfect place to meet up with friends for a drink as the café is open every evening until 11:30 pm.
Národní 22, Praha 1, 110 00,
tel: +420 224 930 949
A little slice of Cuba in the heart of Prague’s Old Town. This cigar bar has a vibrant, chatty atmosphere and an easy-going charm, epitomised by the customer graffiti that covers the interior. The writing is on the wall at the Bodeguita.
Address: Kaprova 5, 110 00 Prague 1 (short walk from Old Town Square).
Telephone: (420) 224813922.
Website: www.bodeguita.cz.
The best thing about the beer is the price, 50p for a half litre. Of the big 5 brewers, Urquell is the market leader controlling more than half the market, which used to make a great lager, until they changed the brewing process, now there are far more interesting brews to be drunk. Try Gambrinus pale lager which is more of a golden beer, the style that as become very popular in the UK (like Youngs Golden Zest), but for the most interesting flavours try the dark beers, like the magnificent Kozel, similiar to the new wave of milds on the UK market, but without the image problem, my local pub in London has Budvar dark beer on tap, no milds!
Aromatic (clovey) aperitif, served cold.
Everywhere since 1807.
A pub/restaurant between Betlémské náměstí and Staroměstké náměstí.
Huge beer cellar with good atmosphere, mentioned in The Good Soldier Švejk.
Worth remembering for the fact it serves food very late - up to 1am normally - which is extremely handy to know if you've just arrived in Prague off a late train/plane.
And as an added bonus, the food's both decent and fairly reasonable - expect to pay about CZK 250-300 for a hearty meal plus a beer or two.
Jilská 4, Praha 1. From Můstek station, walk towards Staroměstké náměstí and take 1st left (Rytiřská). At the next crossroads go right up Skořepka to Betlémské náměstí, then right again into Jilská.
Lovely little tea shop in the shadow of the castle. Great variety of tea, good for snacks too.
Nerudova 19. Half way up the steep hill. Spot all the motifs and designs above the doorways as you go!
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