The main ingredient of Czech food, I’ve heard it said, is cholesterol. Hearty fare is the polite way to sum up this ribsticking stodge, comprising typically of meat and dumplings sans vegetables of any kind.
There are places in Prague where you can eat food with a touch more flair – and it needn’t cost the earth. Located a one minute walk from Hradčanska metro station (and therefore around fifteen minutes from Prague Castle on foot), Argument is a restaurant which can’t easily be pigeonholed. It’s upmarket without being pretentious; modern without resembling an airport lounge.
I went for the degustation menu – six small courses which allow you to sample the best of what the restaurant has to offer. The tiger prawns were tasty – I wasn’t brave enough to try sweetbreads but the grilled octopus was delicious. Best of all was course number five – roast duck with ginger – which was so tender it almost melted in the mouth.
While certainly beyond the budget of the average backpacker, Argument is worth a visit if you’d like to treat yourself to quality cuisine without completely breaking the bank.

www.argument-restaurant.cz/uvodni-strana/
Bubenečská 19, Prague 6
+420220 510 427
Google map: bit.ly/10pdqab

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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Balkan restaurant with a delightfully wacky interior – yes, those are upside down chairs you can see hanging from the ceiling! There’s also a gorgeous garden which is open in summer if you really can't cope with the riot of colour on the walls but the real attraction here is the food. The grilled octopus was beautifully presented and tasted delicious which came as something as a shock given this is a landlocked country. Despite being popular with Czech celebs like Karel Gott (their answer to Cliff Richard) and Oscar winning screenwriter/director Zdenek Sverak, the prices are reasonable – and the welcome is as warm as you would expect in the Mediterranean. I deeply regret having strolled past this place, assuming it must be as a tourist haunt – don’t make my mistake!

lukalu.cz/
Újezd 33, Praha 1, Mala Strana
+420 257 212 388
Google map: bit.ly/17o6yw8

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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This is an excellent, authentic Czech bar/restaurant, out of the city centre, but not so far. You can eat your fill for a very modest outlay.

www.zlatyklas.cz
Plzeňská 609/9, 150 00 Praha 5-Smíchov, Czech Republic
+420 251 562 539
Google map: bit.ly/12AIg1j

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While Prague Castle is a must-see attraction, it’s not easy to find a decent nearby eaterie that isn’t a tourist trap. Fortunately there’s Malý Buddha, a Vietnamese restaurant and tearoom only a few minutes' walk from St Vitus Cathedral and the seemingly inescapable crowds. Its cozy, candlelit interior, replete with atmospheric nooks and crannies, is almost as much of an attraction as the food itself. There are some unusual seafood options on the menu such as mussels stir fried in ginger as well as a selection of veggie dishes – a real godsend in a city where the average pub menu only offers deep-fried cheese and chips to non-carnivores.

Malý Buddha, Uvoz 46, Prague 1
malybuddha.cz/
Google map: bit.ly/SuiXVU

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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It seems as if there’s a pizzeria on almost every street corner in Prague, so it can be hard to know which are are the best. I’ve found Pizza Coloseum (their spelling) one of the most reliable. The selection of pizzas and pasta dishes is quite extensive, and although I’ve seen prices rise quite a lot in recent years, the restaurants are still very reasonable, and main course prices average around CZK 150-200.

www.pizzacoloseum.cz/
Branches all over Prague

www.pizzacoloseum.cz

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Is it a restaurant? Is it a club? Is it a record shop? No one is quite sure but either way Radost FX near Namesti Miru is very cool.
Street level houses a quirky veggie café and a music/video/wine shop. Downstairs is a lounge/restaurant area with the same menu, and a club.
During the daytime enjoy the Radost FX cafe. Set behind large windows facing the street, the cafe has some pretty eclectic decor. Tuck into breakfast from 8-11, or later on enjoy the wide vegetarian menu later in the day. Radost Fx has a truly global menu, boasting dishes from countries including Greece, Italy, India and Thailand as well as some of the best veggie burgers and 'slaw ever. Food is available all day.
The same menu is available in the longue area downstairs, which is complimented by a great bar and live music at the weekends - well into the small hours.
I especially love the shop area on street level next to the cafe. As well as videos, DVDs and wine, this cosy shop offers an ever changing selection of vintage and contemporary music on vinyl.
There’s something for everyone here, at any time of day.

www.radostfx.cz/
Bělehradská 22, 120 00, Prague 2
+420 603 193 711
Nearest metro - Namesti Miru or IP Pavlova
Google map: bit.ly/zgnAMf

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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A guesthouse and restaurant housed in an 18th century farmhouse, this is the most impressive restaurant I've been to in the Czech countryside. A stone's throw from Prague (less than a 30 minute drive from the centre), Penzion V Polich is set in the pretty village of Malé Čičovice, a mile from historical site of Okor.
Penzion V Polich is a wonderful place to finish a romp in the countryside with some hearty food in comfortable surroundings. The menu has a heavy Czech influence and offers a lot of game, but the tastes are more refined and adventurous than you will see on a typical Czech tourist menu. On my recent visit options included smoked duck breast, foie gras, pork belly, goose, fallow dear and rabbit, all cooked exceptionally well.
The staff speak relatively little English by Prague standards but are incredibly accommodating of non-Czech visitors and patient in translating as much as they can. The penzion is warm and cosy on a winter's afternoon, but also offers outside dining space for the summer months. Prices are very reasonable: three courses and two beers set us back around 600 czk per person, for some of the best food I have eaten in the Czech Republic. Be sure to book ahead.
A real treat.

www.penzionvpolich.cz
Malé Čičovice 26, 252 68 Malé Číčovice, Czech Republic
+420 733 680 728
Google map: bit.ly/vqjEFP

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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The name Čajovna Ve Věži (the tearoom in the tower) gives you a fairly big clue as to what to expect. A tea room right at the top of the remarkable tower at the edge of Letna park. The whole way up, you will be wondering if you have come to the right place. Don’t worry, you have. Just keep going right to the top.
As well as a special location, Čajovna Ve Věži's boasts a lovely herbal smell throughout and a cosy ambience - decor includes mismatched chairs and tables, Persian rugs, a large Buddha and several small oriental wall hangings. Like a favourite teddy bear, everything looks a little tired but well loved.
The menu is only available in Czech, although as most teas have Japanese or Chinese names, this is not too tricky. Staff speak some English but a phrase book might be useful.
Čajovna Ve Věži offers over 80 teas (from 40 to 115 CZK) from India, China, Japan, Turkey, Nepal, Vietnam and Tibet, as well as some fruit teas and non-caffeinated teas. A small selection of soft drinks is also available, as well as wine.
Light snacks are also offered – nuts (from 30 CZK), sandwiches (35 CZK), corn on the cob (44 CZK) and sushi (85 CZK).
Slightly slow service is more than compensated for by the location, atmosphere, and the excellent teas.

www.dojo.cz/cajovna/rozvrh/index_eng.html
Na výšinách 1/Korunovační, Prague 7
+420 724 593 215
Nearest tram: Sparta (trams 1, 5, 8, 25 or 26).
Open 16:00 - 22:00 in winter and 17:00 - 23:00 in the summer.
Google map: bit.ly/vbodTC

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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One of my favourite restaurants in Prague and multiple gastronomic prize winner, Aromi will not disappoint. Although it boasts an impressive all round Italian menu, Aromi’s main draw is the outstanding selection of fresh fish available daily (no mean feat in a country that is landlocked). Their utterly charming, and incredibly knowledgeable staff bring huge platters of fish to each table (look away if you’re squeamish) and entice you with promises of grilled sea bass, plumptious snapper, huge turbot and fresh lobster.
An excellent wine selection and the best limoncello I’ve had outside Italy complete a fantastic meal.
Not a cheap option, but great for a splurge.
Book ahead – Aromi is deservedly popular throughout the week.

www.aromi.cz/en/home/
Mánesova 78, Praha 2
+420 222713222
Google map: bit.ly/mSmnKs
Nearest metro: Jiriho z Podebrad
Open Mon-Sat 12.00-23.00, Sun 12.00-22.00

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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Upon entering Sudička, a subterranean restaurant in Prague 2, you’ll be glad you knew to come in and didn’t pass straight by. This warmly glowing, inviting gem of a place is almost entirely hidden from pavement level – some small windows around ankle level are all that give it away.
Sudička offers an intimate, cosy space for drinks or dinner, lit by candles and low lighting.
The menu is creative, with a range of excellent salads (my favourite is smoked salmon with strawberries), cheese specialties including raclette and fondue and heartier dishes to warm your cockles throughout winter. Sudička boasts an impressive wine list (including several by the glass) as well as a particularly wide range of teas.
Lovely staff and very reasonable prices complete the experience.

www.sudicka.cz/
Nitranská 1355/7, 130 00 Praha 3
+420 222 511 609

Opening houses described as Monday - Saturday from 3:33 pm to 11:33 pm (mostly even longer) , which seems to cover most bases for evening dining!
Sunday closed
Nearest Metro:
Nearest Tram: 10 or 16 (Vinohradska vodarna) or 11 (Jiriho z Podebrad)
Google map: bit.ly/qIEtxs

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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Fans of Vietnamese food may want to try Pho Vietnam in Prague 2. Located a stone’s throw from Jiriho z Podebrad metro station, this tiny restaurant offers a small outside seating area but mainly offers takeaway meals. Their menu includes some delicious pho (Vietnamese noodle soup, usually served with beef (pho bo) or chicken (pho ga)), which is absolutely packed with fresh spring onions and corrainder, for around 80 CZK.
Pho Vietnam also offers Vietnamese curry dishes with rice, and some sushi.
A basic restaurant but a great quick and healthy option for food in a hurry.

Slavikova 1, 120 00 Prague 2
+420 774 167 786
Nearest Metro: Jiřího z Poděbrad
Nearest Tram: Jiřího z Poděbrad (11), Vinohradska Vodarna (10 and 16)
Google map: bit.ly/oatzRk

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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Beas-Dhaba at Vladislavova offers great quality, freshly cooked vegetarian curry daily. Offering a north Indian menu, this brightly coloured restaurant is a weekday favourite for locals working nearby. The self-service style and metal trays give it a definite school cafeteria feel - if only school dinners had tasted this good! Beas-Dhaba offers two vegetable curries, two dhals, two types of rice, salads and a dessert each day, as well as samosas and pakoras, and Indian sweets. Soft drinks are available - their freshly made fruit and vegetable juices are highly recommended.
Food is priced by weight - lunch will set you back around 160 CZK/ £6.

Lovely warming food in winter. A cool oasis (with garden) in the summer. Beas-Dhaba does get busy but offers a very quick turn around time - great for lunch in a hurry!

Beas-Dhaba has four restaurnat in Prague. See the website for more details.

www.beas-dhaba.cz/
Vladislavova 24, Prague 1
+420 773 380 371
Google map: bit.ly/pY6dqL
Nearest metro: Narodni Trida

Mon-Fri: 11.00-21.00
Sat: 12.00 - 20.00
Sun: 12-18.00

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For a hearty yet oh-so-simple meal with a French twist try La Creperie.
Slightly off the beaten track in Prague 7, this French-Czech owned cafe-restaurant does what is says on the tin. Crepes - lovely big ones with interesting fillings. Savoury crepes for lunch or dinner. Prices range from 70 CZK for a galette with egg and ham, to 125 CZK for the works - Galette Campagnarde (smoked ham, egg, potatoes, cheese and butter). Decedent sweet crepes follow (if you have any room left). Quiches and pastries are also available. Brittan cider is the drink of choice here, served in traditional earthenware.
The modest, low lit interior adds to the atmosphere and the staff are very friendly.
A stone's throw from the city centre and a very short walk from the National Gallery at Veletrzni Palac, this is my favourite post-gallery pick-me-up.

www.lacreperie.cz/
Janovského 1298/4 170 00 Prague 7-Holešovice, Czech Republic
+420 220 878 040
Google map: bit.ly/ofAMMm
Nearest tram: Strossmayerovo Namesti (1, 12, 14, 17, 25, 26 or 91)
Nearest metro: Vltavska (C line)
Open 0900 to 2300 every day

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For the end of your stay in Prague when money is getting tight. Budget but very well prepared Czech cuisine (try the Old Prague Duck with white and red cabbage). Themed art nouveau restaurant centred on the life of painter Alphonse Mucha, The restaurant staff take a real pride in giving good service and you can enjoy local dishes here without breaking the bank.

www.mucha-restaurant.cz/
Melantrichova 504/5, 110 00, Praha 1, Czech republic
+420 | 725 373 588
Google map: bit.ly/pw4n0z

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Just off the main old town square in a street called 'Kozi', this place is damn near perfect. Reasonably priced, central European gourmet food in designer surroundings and impeccable, white gloved service. Inexpensive fine dining in a serene white and silver decor with a laid back lounge atmosphere.

www.chagalls.cz/
Kozí 5, 110 00 Praha 1
+420 739 002 347
Google map: bit.ly/qGUl1f

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Dining with a view normally comes with a price, but Marina Grosseto offers quality European fare with a stunning view of Prague castle without an outrageous price tag. This floating restaurant, built on the base of a cargo boat was completed in June 2010 and has become a favourite with tourists, expats and Czechs alike. Spread over two floors, the restaurant is modern, light and spacious, with a glass side that slides back on warm evenings allow a gentle breeze to circulate.
The view is heavenly, and the food and service are also impressive. Expect standard European dishes with the emphasis on Italia pizza, pasta and fish dishes. With soups from 55 CZK and mains from around 160 CZK (for pizza) or 250 CZK (for meat and fish), it's not the cheapest place in Prague but the location easily compensates.
Book ahead - Marina Grosseto is very busy throughout the year, particularly in the summer.

www.grosseto.cz
Alšovo nábřeží, Praha 1
+420 605 454 020
Nearest metro: Staroměstská Metro

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Fairly new but already a firm favourite among Prague’s curry enthusiasts, The Pind (which means ‘village’ in Punjabi) offers very high quality curry dishes from northern India at reasonable prices.
The menu includes some ‘curry classics’, a wide range of starters, sides and breads as well as some less standard dishes, including some excellent vegetarian curries.
The inspired menu is complemented by wonderfully friendly and efficient service. As well as a wonderful evening venue, The Pind has a weekday lunch all-you-can-eat-buffet for 109 CZK which includes two types of rice, one chicken dish, one lentil dish, and two vegetarian dishes with salads, yogurt sauce and bread. You may need to roll home afterwards.
The Pind provides a very causal smoking area upstairs and a downstairs room which is a little more formal, warm, inviting and non-smoking. Some limited outside seating is available in the summer.
A wonderful find in Vinohrady.

www.thepind.cz/
Korunní 1151/67, Vinohrady, Praha 3
+420 222516085
Open every day until 23.00 (22.00 on Sunday)
Nearest tram - 10 and 16 to Vinohradská Vodárna
Nearest metro- Jirího z Podebrad Metro
Google map: bit.ly/pWinzo

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Thoroughly good eatery in the elegant Vinohrady district, not far from Jiřího z Poděbrad. Eat well for under a tenner: excellent salads and crisp Müller Thurgau.

www.sudicka.cz
Nitranská 1355/7, 130 00 Praha 3 - Vinohrady
+420 222 511 609
Google map: bit.ly/juoDCw

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This is a great place to have breakfast, lunch or dinner (vegetarian meals are included, a rarity in Prague). There is a large non-smoking room upstairs, which is very nice, as cafés and pubs in Prague tend to get very smoky and uncomfortable.
This place serves top quality coffee, including Viennese coffee, Algerian coffee, Mafioso (cappuccino with Amaretto), and various types of hot chocolate, with coffee, with ice cream, with rum and whipped cream, with egg liqueur and whipped cream, you get the idea.
I ordered a double espresso and a warm apple strudel with vanilla and chocolate sauce and whipped cream – the pastry was light, flaky and not too buttery; the minced apples had just the right blend of cinnamon, sugar, and nuts, and the whipped cream, oh, the whipped cream! Light and airy, it melted in my mouth as soon as it reached my tongue. This dessert wasn’t sweet or heavy, and the mix of vanilla and chocolate sauce was perfect.
Café Louvre is open from 8am every day; and offers morning newspapers.
Free wi-fi is also available.

Národní 22, Praha 1, 110 00
+420 224 930 949
www.cafelouvre.cz
Google map: bit.ly/jsXOmW

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Two minutes from the Old Town square but tucked away on a side street this place has everything - a restaurant, a wine bar, a café and a food shop.
On winter evenings it’s a lovely place to go with friends for wine of varying prices but consistently good quality. Many are available by the glass. During the summer, sit in the peaceful courtyard at the back of the restaurant for al fresco dining.
The evening menu is very good but the real bonus is the daily lunch menu - choose between two and three courses, with or without wine, and you will have change from 200CZK.
Expect European cuisine with a twist of Czech including duck, rabbit and dumplings.

Havelská 500/25, Praha 1
+420 226 006 122
www.uzavoje.cz/cz/
Nearest metro: Mustek
Google map: bit.ly/krtkqp

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