For national Czech history don't go to the National Museum at the top of Wenceslas Square. The building is beautiful but the collection has just been shut for at least four years for extensive and long-overdue updating.
Instead, go to the National Museum site at the Vitkov Memorial in Zizkov. This site is home to one of the biggest equestrian statues in the world and a very interesting exhibition about 20th century Czech history.
A steep climb to the top is rewarded by a great view over the city, from the roof-top viewing platform or the very good café.

www.nm.cz/
U Památníku 1900, 130 00 Praha 3
+420 222 781 676

November 2011 untill March 2012:
Monday–Wednesday: CLOSED
Thursday–Sunday: 10 AM–6 PM
Google map: bit.ly/vukUJR

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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Dining with a view normally comes with a price, but Marina Grosseto offers quality European fare with a stunning view of Prague castle without an outrageous price tag. This floating restaurant, built on the base of a cargo boat was completed in June 2010 and has become a favourite with tourists, expats and Czechs alike. Spread over two floors, the restaurant is modern, light and spacious, with a glass side that slides back on warm evenings allow a gentle breeze to circulate.
The view is heavenly, and the food and service are also impressive. Expect standard European dishes with the emphasis on Italia pizza, pasta and fish dishes. With soups from 55 CZK and mains from around 160 CZK (for pizza) or 250 CZK (for meat and fish), it's not the cheapest place in Prague but the location easily compensates.
Book ahead - Marina Grosseto is very busy throughout the year, particularly in the summer.

www.grosseto.cz
Alšovo nábřeží, Praha 1
+420 605 454 020
Nearest metro: Staroměstská Metro

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A visit to Letná Park (Letenské sady) will help you work off all the dumplings and also reward you with a phenomenal view of Prague. Letna Park has space to run, walk skateboard and in-line skate, if you can still move after climbing the several hundred steps to get to the top! If you can't - it is also a lovely place to simply relax. The park includes several places to eat and drink including the small restaurant in the Hanavsky Pavilion. As you walk up to the top of the steps (directly above the north bank of Pa_í_ská Bridge and marked by the massive metronome that over looks the city), turn left and walk for about three minutes. You will come to a beautiful neo-baroque building with cast-iron detail. This building, the Hanavsky Pavilion, was originally created as a ceremonial hall for the Prague National Exhibition in 1891, and today is a bar and restaurant. Good prices, indifferent service, but a beautiful view over the southern side of the city, which makes the climb worthwhile.

Letenské sady 173, 170 00 Praha 7
+420 233 323 641
www.hanavskypavilon.cz/

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If you go into the town hall (entrance on the Old Town Square near the astrological clock) you can buy a ticket to climb the staircase that will take you to the roof. From here there are marvellous views of the square itself, including a unique view of the Tyn church, as well as views across the city in all directions from this central location.

Old Town Square

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An open-air cocktail bar with patio heaters in the winter (when we visited), on top of the U Princ hotel in the Old Town Square. Go at night, when the whole of Progue is lit up around you.

Opposite the astonomical clock in the Old Town Square

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If, having climbed the hill to the Castle, you’re in the mood for a bit more climbing then this is the one for you. Behind the Castle is Petrin hill, at the top of which is a small replica of the Eiffel Tower, which is nevertheless about 60 metres high, and which you can ascend for what must be the highest view across the city. The tower has 299 steps and a little café at the bottom which most people seem grateful for after all the steps. It’s a pleasant walk up to the tower, but there’s also a funicular that runs from the Ujezd tram stop in Mala Strana.

Petrin Hill

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Frank Gehry and Vlado Milunic's 1996 concrete and glass confection, nicknamed "Fred and Ginger" because it resmbles a pair of male and female dancers, is a refreshingly modern touch amid all the baroque beauties. There's a restaurant at the top with views, La Perle de Prague - but it's pricey.

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I hate to give away this secret, but here goes: on old town square, somewhat across from the astrological clock, there is a hotel called U Prince. Go in the back and take the elevator to the top, and from there take the stairs up. You'll be rewarded with a restaurant/cafe on the roof, sporting probably the best view of Prague.

Staromestske Namesti 29, Praha 1

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Go up the TV tower and you'll get a fantastic view of the city. Enjoy the Soviet-era fun of the space race style building and wonder about the strange giant babies crawling up the side of the tower.

In Zizkov, a residential area to the east of the city. Take the tram straight from Wencelas Square.

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We lived in Prague for years from1996-2000.

I never got bored of this beautiful city - lots of places were favourites of mine, but Vysehrad was a wonderful walking area.

Our son was born in Podoli hospital just next door to it, facing the Vltava.

My advice would be enjoy Prague but theft is a big problem around the main tourist areas. Hold onto your bag tightly.

Follow Vltava toward Praha 4 and as you get to the tunnel through the mountain, look upward.

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Just on the Old Town Square and opposite the Astronomical Clock is a roof garden where there are wonderful views of the centre of the City. The food might not be great but for an hour or so mid-afternoon when your feet are feeling tired it is a great place to be.

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Apparently this is where the first Slav tribes settled in Prague, and this is their fort. It's a smaller castle or fortress at the southern end of the city, perched at the top of a hill that overlooks the city. The views across Prague are amazing, you can literally perch on the wall and gaze across the more popular Prague Castle. This place is less visited by tourists and is a very calm and relaxing place if you want to escape the city centre for a while.

There is a lovely church and graveyard where famous Czechs are buried (politicians, artists) - in fact Dvorak's grave is here.

Go to: www.praha-vysehrad.cz

There's a metro station at Vyšehrad - when you come out of the station, head for the river along čiklova, then onto Slavojova, then do a left onto Vratislavova and just follow the road up and round to the right.

Or, you can get tram #3, #7, #16, #17 or #21. They stop closer than the metro station.

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Even with a city as beautiful as Prague, it's sometimes nice to get out for a while. On the north-west border of the city is the spectacular Divoká Šárka, where you can wander through forests and gaze at spectacular rock formations surrounded by streams, waterfalls and lakes.

At the north-west terminus of the number 26 tram. Map at: tinyurl.com/2byaf4

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The rooftop terrace of Coda Restaurant, which is part of Aria Hotel, has wonderful views, and is a romantic place to eat under the stars, weather permitting. Restaurant U Modré Kachnicky (the Blue Duck) is another nice place, and is walking distance from Aria Hotel.

Coda Restaurant: Trižište 9, Prague 1; tel: (+420) 225 334 761;
email: codarestaurant@aria.cz;
www.codarestaurant.cz

Restaurant U Modré Kachnicky: Nebovidska 6, Praha 1; tel: (+420) 257 320 308, 257 316 745;
email: retro@umodrekachnicky.cz;
www.umodrekachnicky.cz

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Take the tram up to the castle entrance (saves a steep walk up) and, after enjoying the cathedral and Golden Lane, don't walk down the road with the guided groups. Pay the small amount required (£2 each) for the privilege of enjoying a delightful walk through some amazing terraced gardens. Each level is different with a range of plants, flowers, fountains and statues - very relaxing and quiet. Excellent views all the way down. You end up on the street after a welcome beer in the cafe at the exit. A good way to spend an hour or so.

Prague Castle

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25 kilometres south west of Prague, Karlstejn is a picturesque village worth walking around in itself, but it also boasts its own impressive castle. Built by Charles IV in the 14th century, it sits on top of a hill and rather dominates everything from the streets below, looking suspiciously ‘Disneyesque’ amid the surrounding fir trees. The views from the castle are sufficient reason in themselves to make the climb, though the interiors are interesting enough, if somewhat restricted due to some unfortunate past acts of vandalism.

By train – from Smichov station in Prague (Smichovske nadrazi metro) or take a guided tour, widely available in the city centre

www.obeckarlstejn.cz/en_default.html

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Half way up Petrin Hill furnicular is a restaurant with the best views of Prague. The food isn't bad and the beer is, as ever, superb. Get there for sunset at the best table in the city! Cost about £18 for 2, with wine

first stop up Petrin Hill

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Spoilt for choice, but a useful tip is to head up to the top of Letna Hill on the north-west side of the river, north of the castle. From there you have a stunning panorama down the river of the bridges flanked by the castle on the right and the old and new towns on the left.

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