Life-sized cool
Mikael Colville-Andersen is the editor of copenhagencyclechic.com
Copenhagen is an aesthetic capital that is content with its laid-back, cool attitude and rather unimpressed with the delusions of grandeur suffered by other European cities. The city centre is a charming labyrinth of cosy streets peppered with trendy cafes and boutiques. The surrounding neighbourhoods are relaxed areas where the Copenhagener can be seen in its natural environment.
What the city lacks in Eiffel Towers and Big Bens it makes up for with its curious mix of historic buildings and ultra-modern design. In the summer months, flocks of bewildered American tourists from the armada of cruise ships (Copenhagen is the third-busiest cruise destination in the world) can be seen wandering about wondering what it is they should be looking at.
At least they can wander without worry, as much of the city centre is designated as pedestrian areas with "Strøget" being the crown in the work. The street stretches from the Town Hall Square to Nyhavn on the harbour. Wandering about a city has rarely been easier or more desirable.
With the strength of other European currencies the city is hardly as expensive as it once was. Shopping for designer items is a treat and done while taking in striking modern architecture like the new opera house or the Black Diamond building, both on the harbour. Design is often regarded as Denmark's greatest cultural export so they put a bit of elbow grease into it. The best way to get around is on a bike. The city boasts Europe’s most developed network of bike paths and you won’t be alone: 37% of Copenhageners cycle to work or school every day, making Holland’s reputation as a bike-happy nation pale in comparison.
If "big is better" is your thing, then Copenhagen will disappoint. Upon seeing the Little Mermaid statue on her rock on the harbour generations of puzzled tourists have uttered the same remark: "But she’s so SMALL!" Upon hearing this a Copenhagener will merely shrug and remark, "She’s life-size". All with a crooked smile and a twinkle in the eye,
Which would be an ideal motto for Copenhagen. Life-size. An ego to match any other capital but an ego which is wrapped up in a Nordic coolness that makes any visit to the city a calming, groovy and aesthetically appealing experience.
Copenhagen is an aesthetic capital that is content with its laid-back, cool attitude and rather unimpressed with the delusions of grandeur suffered by other European cities. The city centre is a charming labyrinth of cosy streets peppered with trendy cafes and boutiques. The surrounding neighbourhoods are relaxed areas where the Copenhagener can be seen in its natural environment.
What the city lacks in Eiffel Towers and Big Bens it makes up for with its curious mix of historic buildings and ultra-modern design. In the summer months, flocks of bewildered American tourists from the armada of cruise ships (Copenhagen is the third-busiest cruise destination in the world) can be seen wandering about wondering what it is they should be looking at.
At least they can wander without worry, as much of the city centre is designated as pedestrian areas with "Strøget" being the crown in the work. The street stretches from the Town Hall Square to Nyhavn on the harbour. Wandering about a city has rarely been easier or more desirable.
With the strength of other European currencies the city is hardly as expensive as it once was. Shopping for designer items is a treat and done while taking in striking modern architecture like the new opera house or the Black Diamond building, both on the harbour. Design is often regarded as Denmark's greatest cultural export so they put a bit of elbow grease into it. The best way to get around is on a bike. The city boasts Europe’s most developed network of bike paths and you won’t be alone: 37% of Copenhageners cycle to work or school every day, making Holland’s reputation as a bike-happy nation pale in comparison.
If "big is better" is your thing, then Copenhagen will disappoint. Upon seeing the Little Mermaid statue on her rock on the harbour generations of puzzled tourists have uttered the same remark: "But she’s so SMALL!" Upon hearing this a Copenhagener will merely shrug and remark, "She’s life-size". All with a crooked smile and a twinkle in the eye,
Which would be an ideal motto for Copenhagen. Life-size. An ego to match any other capital but an ego which is wrapped up in a Nordic coolness that makes any visit to the city a calming, groovy and aesthetically appealing experience.
Best view
View from the Rundetårnet
The term ‘view’ is relative in a city that banned skyscrapers by referendum in the 1970s. To get a bird’s eye view you’ll have to do a bit of climbing. Rundetårnet, or the Round Tower, is a landmark in the city centre.
Another option is the spire of Our Saviour’s church in the Christianshavn neighbourhood is unique in that the spiral staircase is on the outside of the spire. If your boots are made for walking you’re all set.
Another option is the spire of Our Saviour’s church in the Christianshavn neighbourhood is unique in that the spiral staircase is on the outside of the spire. If your boots are made for walking you’re all set.
Our Saviour Church (Vor frelsers kirke)
Best thing to do for free
Changing of the guards
Even in a modern design utopia on the cutting edge of technological progress it’s still a treat to see marching soldiers. At the Queen’s palace, Amalienborg, the changing of the guards takes place every day at 12 noon. The whole bearskin hat, snapping of the heels thing is always enjoyable. It’s amusing to see a group of soldiers carrying loaded machine guns with an ambling policeman armed with a little pistol as their minder.
Amalienborg Palace is on Amaliegade or entrance from Toldbodgade along the harbour.
Where to watch the world go by
Grab a coffee on Amagertorv
Pick a square, any square. Like in any European city worth its salt, the world passes by in the city’s squares. Copenhageners have memorised what time the sun shines on which square and they gravitate accordingly to the sunny spots. Grab a coffee at either Cafe Norden or Cafe Europa on Amagertorv (‘torv’ being the Danish for square) in the heart of town and watch said world pass by.
Located at the junction of the Stroget and Kobmagergade pedestrian streets near the parliament
Nighttime hangout
Vega
The locals with hip tendencies stick to the surrounding neighbourhoods when they hit the town by night. In Vesterbro, at the far end of Istedgade, you’ll find the nightclub Vega with the accompanying Ideal Bar. Vega is the venue of choice of visiting bands and the nightclub hosts the touring DJs. Get there before 1am to avoid the queues that form after the cafés close at 2am.
Vega
Cultural highlight
Tivoli Gardens
Walt Disney was so fond of Tivoli Gardens that he was inspired to build Disneyland. That’s where the similarities end. Tivoli is a must see, if not for the modern rides then for an understanding of the down-to-earth Danish mentality. Don’t expect an amusement park experience. Get ready to wander lazily about soaking up the quaintness of it all and it's simple pleasures: a cold glass of beer; feeding the fish in the lake; a bite to eat.
Sure, have a go on the gut-wrenching Demon rollercoaster or one of the other new rides, but remember to take a spin on the rickety old Odin Express rollercoaster or the little Ferris wheel.
All within earshot of the bells from the town hall. It’s a quintessential Danish experience.
Sure, have a go on the gut-wrenching Demon rollercoaster or one of the other new rides, but remember to take a spin on the rickety old Odin Express rollercoaster or the little Ferris wheel.
All within earshot of the bells from the town hall. It’s a quintessential Danish experience.
Located between the Central Station and the Town Hall Square.
Bring back
Danish design
Funky, radical designer items that cause your friends to say, ‘Didn’t know they could do THAT with a corkscrew/lamp/cheese slicer?!’ A good stop is at Illums Bolighus on Amagertorv. Danish design at its best.
And why don’t you take the ultra right-wing politicians from the Danish Folkeparti with you when you go. Their xenophobia is getting on a lot of people's nerves. No, don’t send them back. Keep them.
And why don’t you take the ultra right-wing politicians from the Danish Folkeparti with you when you go. Their xenophobia is getting on a lot of people's nerves. No, don’t send them back. Keep them.
Illums Bolighus
Leave there
Little mermaid toys
Kitsch ‘Made in China’ copies of The Little Mermaid and tin soldiers. Oh, and those plastic helmets with Viking horns. Oh, and anything to do with Hans Christian Andersen. This is the year of the bicentenary of his birth so you’ll do well to avoid the Hans Christian Andersen wine/ cookies/dolls/badly-translated books of his fairytales/etc.
Time for love
Kongens Have
Don’t know what it is about benches that attract couples. Especially in the summer benches are frequently occupied by amorous pairs in various stages of courting. The long-lasting light of the nordic summer provides a Hollywood glow. Any bench overlooking a body of water is preferred or try the King’s Gardens (Kongens Have). This pursuit isn’t purely a summer one. My wife and I gravitated to a bench at the tail-end of October on the first evening of our relationship.
For a sharp bit of contrast I’ll recommend a dimly-lit table in the corner at the jazz club Lafontaine at 4am on a mid-week day where loving mumbles dance across the glasses of whisky between you. It’s the oldest jazz club in town and features live jazz on Friday-Sunday.
For a sharp bit of contrast I’ll recommend a dimly-lit table in the corner at the jazz club Lafontaine at 4am on a mid-week day where loving mumbles dance across the glasses of whisky between you. It’s the oldest jazz club in town and features live jazz on Friday-Sunday.
For the benches try the lakes surrounding the city centre or find one by the harbour.
Best-kept secret (till now)
Amager Strandpark
It’s secret mostly because Google Earth’s satellite photos are so outdated that it doesn’t even exist. Copenhagen’s new riviera, Amager Strandpark, was inaugurated this year and puts a massive recreation area with beaches, lagoons and outdoorsy pursuits within a 15 minute bike ride from the city. A man-made island juts out into the sea towards Sweden from the island of Amager just to the south of Copenhagen and will undoubtedly be a popular summer destination. Copenhagen doesn’t lack great beaches. There are long stretches to the south and trendy beaches to the north, but the new beach is an impressive attempt to create new, exciting areas for recreation close to the city.
Located along Amager Strandvej on the island of Amager.
The thing to eat
Pølsevogn
Try the sausages from a ‘pølsevogn’ - sausage stand - on the street. Traditional Danish fast food at its greasiest. Grab a sausage on a cardboard tray, place two globs of ketchup and mustard next to it, order two pieces of bread and get dipping. These portable sausage stands are so revered as cultural institutions that long lines of cars don’t dare honk when the respective vendor is walking the stand down the streets to get to work on a city street corner.
On a street corner or city square near you
Green space
Dyrehaven
For centuries Copenhageners have made day trips out to Dyrehaven - or Deer Park - north of the city. The journey no longer requires a horse and carriage. Just hop on the C line of the S-trains and head to the end of the line Klampenborg station. From there you’re metres away from the main entrance.
King Frederik III designated Dyrehaven at a hunting area for his son, Christian V in 1670. There are still hundreds of deer and stags the fields and forest of the 1000 hectares of the park. In the autumn you can hear the feisty stags bleating loudly.
It’s the ultimate oasis for city folk.
King Frederik III designated Dyrehaven at a hunting area for his son, Christian V in 1670. There are still hundreds of deer and stags the fields and forest of the 1000 hectares of the park. In the autumn you can hear the feisty stags bleating loudly.
It’s the ultimate oasis for city folk.
Best ride
Canal boats
It’s touristy and it’s often chilly but you can’t beat a ride on the canal boats. They ferry tourists on a guided tour by sea around the capital and through the maze of canals. Yes, you get to see The Little Mermaid - don’t worry - although your photo will be populated by tourists on shore doing the same thing as you.
It’s a great way to get acquainted with the city and get a bit of history thrown in - in three languages. I loathe to admit it but even as a local I look forward to having guests from out of town solely because I get to take them on a refreshing canal boat ride.
All the boats depart from Nyhavn - the canal that ends at Kongens Nytorv. Most of them have a hop on - hop off system. Prices vary but count on roughly 30 kroner.
It’s a great way to get acquainted with the city and get a bit of history thrown in - in three languages. I loathe to admit it but even as a local I look forward to having guests from out of town solely because I get to take them on a refreshing canal boat ride.
All the boats depart from Nyhavn - the canal that ends at Kongens Nytorv. Most of them have a hop on - hop off system. Prices vary but count on roughly 30 kroner.
Various companies depart Nyhavn throughout the day.
Keep the kids happy
Tøjhusmuseet
Many of the suggestions on this page are child-friendly. Nevertheless it’s worth mentioning that Copenhagen has more than 60 museums. Everything from the National Museum to smaller-scale ventures like the Danish School Museum and the Museum of Customs and Taxes.
If I mine the pits of my personal experience I’ll always recommend the Royal Danish Arsenal Museum. Soldiers and sailors, cannons and guns. They put a lot of effort into events that kids love. Demonstrating how cannons work or jousting knights or naval fighting techniques. Very child-friendly.
If I mine the pits of my personal experience I’ll always recommend the Royal Danish Arsenal Museum. Soldiers and sailors, cannons and guns. They put a lot of effort into events that kids love. Demonstrating how cannons work or jousting knights or naval fighting techniques. Very child-friendly.
Called Tøjhusmuseet in Danish, the museum is located on Tøjhusgade, which is right next to Christiansborg castle, which houses the Danish parliament.
Escape the crowds
Frederiksberg Gardens
You’re never pressed for space even in the tourist season. But if off the beaten track is the goal then rent a bike and ride out to Frederiksberg Gardens. It’s ten minutes from the Central Station to these relaxed gardens. The same paths and canal that the upper classes escaped to in the Danish Golden Age. Hans Christian Andersen and his fine friends promenaded here and you, too, can take a slow motion sail along the canal below the castle.
Head west along Vesterbrogade, turn right when the road forks and continue along Frederiksberg Allé. At the end of the road is the Gardens.
The film to see before I go
Reconstruction
Reconstruction by Cristoffer Boe. This elegant arthouse film features Copenhagen as a character and gives a good impression of the Nordic mentality of the city.
... and the novel to read
The Drop of Water
The fairytale The Drop of Water, by Hans Christian Andersen. A scathing tale of the pettiness of the citizens of Copenhagen although it applies to any city today.
Read it online here:
Where to eat (budget)
Cafes in Copenhagen
Cafes always tend to have hearty sandwiches on the menu. Any cosy cafe in the centre of town will serve your needs. They’re usually designed to be eaten with a knife and fork which defeats the whole concept of a sandwich, but tasty is the rule.
Where to eat (moderate)
Post and Telegraf Museum cafe
One of the best-kept secrets in town is the cafe atop the Post and Telegraf Museum. A stunning view of town and light, traditional Danish courses for lunch. Loads of blue-haired, sophisticated ladies, but that’s part of the charm.
Café Hovedtelegrafen
Where to stay (budget)
Danhostel Copenhagen
Danhostel Copenhagen have opened a designer youth hostel in one of the city’s few tall buildings. Every room has a stunning view and the shared rooms aimed at backpackers start at about 10 pounds. Budget rooms with more privacy are available, too.
H.C. Andersens Boulevard 50
Where to stay (posh)
Radisson SAS Royal
There are posh hotels in Copenhagen and then there is the Mother of All Design Hotels. Radisson SAS Royal was designed by Denmark’s most famous design icon, Arne Jacobsen - from the form of the cutlery to the entire form of the building. Ask for a room restored to its original state as Jacobsen had intended. Fantastic views and host to scores of statesmen and women as well as rock stars.
Radisson SAS Royal Hotel
Get there from the airport
Airport stories
Few European capitals are better connected to their airport. When you walk through the doors of the arrivals area at Kastrup airport, walk straight for a hundred metres. Buy a ticket from the Danish state railways booth (DSB) and take the escalator down to the platform. Trains run regularly and it takes 14 minutes to get to Copenhagen central station.
If you find you’re on the platform where the signs read “Malmø”, don’t get on the train. You’ll head to Sweden if you do. Copenhagen central station is called København H.
If you find you’re on the platform where the signs read “Malmø”, don’t get on the train. You’ll head to Sweden if you do. Copenhagen central station is called København H.
Copenhagen Airport has a great website where you can check the status of your flight.
On the internet
Hans Christian Andersen website
The public service channel Danish Broadcasting has a fanatastic website about Hans Christian Andersen and I particularly recommend its Time Machine feature.
If you want to get a crash course in Copenhagen's history in the 1800s click your way to the site and watch the city come alive with images, sounds and heaps of extras. They have an English version. The perfect way to prepare for a visit to the city for those who find history interesting.
If you want to get a crash course in Copenhagen's history in the 1800s click your way to the site and watch the city come alive with images, sounds and heaps of extras. They have an English version. The perfect way to prepare for a visit to the city for those who find history interesting.
Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
Search Been there
Your tips about Copenhagen
Most popular tips about Copenhagen
Posted by snapshotMal
Posted by ozzygirl
Posted by ColvilleAndersen
Posted by ivortheenginedriver
Posted by pauld
Posted by susanmb
Posted by apicus
Posted by ColvilleAndersen
Posted by ClintZepho
Posted by dbarnes