Cross the Knippelsbro bridge to the Christiania district for a slice of Copenhagen’s alternative side. Founded in the 70s when a group of hippies took control of an abandoned military barracks and abstained from Danish rule, it’s a ‘free city’ within a city. Have a coffee along the waterfront and enjoy the paintings, sculpture and live music that seems to spring up everywhere.

Cross Knippelsbro, one of the two bridges connecting Sealand and Amager.

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Roskilde was once the capital of Denmark, and the beautiful cathedral there (a World Heritage site) contains 38 royal tombs, including that of Harald Bluetooth.

The fjord is a short walk down the hill and has an extensive museum and boatbuilding yard where traditional Viking longships are made and sailed before your very eyes.

When I visited the place it was swarming with tiny children all done up in lifejackets enthusiastically climbing aboard these craft and setting sail, under expert supervision. The Vikings are evidently still keen.

Roskilde town, a short train ride from Copenhagen central station. Then walk to the cathedral and fjord.

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Have a look at the statue on Bispetorv, it is opposite Vor Frue Kirke.

Go round the back of the statue so you are facing the church, check out the frieze. How to get on in the Danish church! Turn down Studiestræde and you are in the old latin Quarter of Copenhagen.

Bispetorv on Nørregade

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Stroll along the lakes, around the Kastellet
(look out for the brilliant windmill) and in the Botanic Gardens.

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In rare moments of Southern European mimickry - usually on sunny Sundays - Copenhageners stroll along the chain of lakes just north of the city centre. A year-round pursuit and an aesthetic one.

The Lakes are quite obvious on the map of the city.

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