- Copenhagen
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Denmark
Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770 - 1844) was a neoclassical sculptor and gained a huge reputation during his lifetime. He is justly celebrated in Denmark and this museum is well worth a visit, especially if you like Wedgwood blue Jasper ware - his work is of that kind. Thorvaldsen, like some other Scandinavian sculptors, such as Gustav Vigeland at Frogner Park in Oslo, was never knowingly understated, and there are some huge and ungainly pieces here. But the best of his work is elegant, cool and fresh. At his own wish, Thorvaldsen himself is buried in the museum's rose garden but you may not want to know that.
Bertel Thorvaldsens Plads 2, Copenhagen. Closed Mondays.
www.thorvaldsensmuseum.dk Buses 1A, 2A, 15, 26, 29. S train or Metro to Norreport.
This is a small public gallery showing paintings and some sculpture in a former private house (often the best way to show art collections) and concentrates largely on Danish work of the 18th and 19th centuries.
If you like landscape, interiors and small genre painting, this is a good place to visit. The house is around the back of the main national gallery and across a small park.
Stockholmsgade 20. Metro stop Norreport. Buses 6A, 14, 40 and many others (check bus stop signs). www.hirschsprung.de
Roskilde was once the capital of Denmark, and the beautiful cathedral there (a World Heritage site) contains 38 royal tombs, including that of Harald Bluetooth.
The fjord is a short walk down the hill and has an extensive museum and boatbuilding yard where traditional Viking longships are made and sailed before your very eyes.
When I visited the place it was swarming with tiny children all done up in lifejackets enthusiastically climbing aboard these craft and setting sail, under expert supervision. The Vikings are evidently still keen.
Roskilde town, a short train ride from Copenhagen central station. Then walk to the cathedral and fjord.
One of the most famous cafes in Copenhagen. Quick lunches, sandwiches, drinks and various pastries.
Ostergade 61
Amagertorv
Once you brave the dodgy alleyway this restaurant is a great find. It has a nice local atmosphere and is very good value (especially for Copenhagen). It was about £16 for the fish fondue which was plentiful and of a very high quality. There was a great salad bar to go with it too.
Baron von Dy
Frederiksborggade 5
1360 København K
Phone: 33 93 11 92
www.fondue.dk/
This is great for the convenience of being able to hop on and off transport (it covers a trip up the coast to Elsinore for example) and gets you into Tivoli (which is £7 otherwise), but at £42 for three days (there is also a one day option for £19) you need to be really sure you are going to be doing a lot of traveling around to make it worthwhile.
Tourist Office
It is a bit dated in terms of decor but the location is good and the breakfast is great. Lovely cheese, bread and other goodies to really set you up for the day.
Ascot Hotel Studiestræde 61 DK - 1554 Copenhagen V Tel: +45 3312 6000 Fax: + 45 3314 6040 E-mail: hotel@ascot-hotel.dk
I wanted real Danish food and boy, did I get it! This is a cozy, family/worker restaurant with giant portions (easily enough for 2 to share) and resonably priced. I ordered frikerdeller (Danish meatballs) and was so full I could hardly move. Good value and great food.
Enghavevej 4, off the Vesterbrogade, about 15 minute walk from the train station.
The location of Lars Von Trier's Dogma film "Idioterne". Pretend to be an "eejit" and annoy the well-heeled residents.
Have a look at the statue on Bispetorv, it is opposite Vor Frue Kirke.
Go round the back of the statue so you are facing the church, check out the frieze. How to get on in the Danish church! Turn down Studiestræde and you are in the old latin Quarter of Copenhagen.
Bispetorv on Nørregade
Is one of the Guldsmeden chain of boutique hotels, and is a wonderful haven of luxury in funky Vesterbro. Four-poster beds, flat screen TVs, slipper baths with claw feet, and a stonkingly good organic buffet breakfast. Knowledgeable and friendly staff - a great base for Copenhagen. There's another branch called the Carlton, and another planned for 2007.
Vesterbrogade 107, 10-15 mins walk from the station.
www.hotelguldsmeden.dk
A Michelin-starred restaurant that specialises in and celebrates Nordic cuisine, and where I had the best dining experience of my life in September. Expect plenty of shellfish, local herbs and ingredients and some very clever ideas on your plate. Staff are wonderful too. It was so good - I'm going again in December!
A fairy tale thatched cottage restaurant (hence the name - the Yellow Cottage) on the Danish Riviera, overlooking the beach, which serves fantastic Modern Danish food. Just 20 mins from Copenhagen station so a great day out too. It's tiny though (seats about 15!) so you'll need to book.
www.dengulecottage.dk/xtradgc/flash.htm
(5 mins walk from Klampenborg station, get outside, turn right and head towards the water!)
An excellent herring restaurant with a great selection of this classic Danish delicacy, helpful waitresses and plenty of tables outside to enjoy the Nyhavn atmosphere and views.
Nyhavn 5, overlooking the water and boats
One of the oldest bars in Copenhagen (has existed since 1917!). It has lots of atmosphere due to the dim lighting, its red wallpaper and jazz on the stereo. The clientele is a mix of old regulars and young people. A place where it's hard not to get into conversation with the person next to you.
Address: Klareboderne 14, Copenhagen K. A side street to Købmagergade and close to Nørreport Station.
Telephone: +45 33 12 55 43
This is a cosy restaurant, great for lunch. The Turtle is in a cellar with a low ceiling, below one of the old buildings in Gråbrødre Torv. You can create your own sandwich and have it toasted at the bar. The food is excellent with good value prices. The casual atmosphere makes these a favourite lunch place.
Skildpadden
Gråbrødretorv 9
1154 København K
Phone: 33 13 05 06
Fax: 33 13 90 80
Great boutique hotel near centre of town. Conceived as promotional project for VW, 21 international designers and urban artists were briefed to design unique rooms. Result is a strange and otherworldy experience. Highly recommended, staff are helpful and breakfasts terrific - served on day beds/sofas in funky foyer. Click onto website to see all the rooms. Even if you don't choose to stay, you must try the cocktails in the ground floor bar/restaurant which is open to all.
Address: Hotel FOX, Jarmers Plads 3, DK-1551, Copenhagen V, Denmark
Telephone Reservation: +45 33 95 77 55
Web: www.hotelfox.dk/home.html
Email: hotel@hotelfox.dk
It has the present World Champion Barista, Claus Thomsen working there. The staffs are very friendly. It is non-smoking. The coffee is consistently brilliant. It was started and run by a small group of coffee and chocolate enthusiasts. Really doesn't get much better than that.
At the start of Gammel Kongevej, right beside Urania Cycles (big red neon sign) also a great shop. 200 metres from Vesterport Station.
A fantastic little bar/cafe with some of the strangest decor I've ever seen - peculiar taxidermical creations dressed in human clothing, which are created by artist Filip Jensen. A short walk from the town centre it is not full of tourists but has a pleasingly mixed clientele of students, the arty and locals.
Really good place to have lunch, down some steps and the sign is the shape of a London Underground sign. Run by a Swedish girl and an Italian guy.
St Peders Straede, which runs parallel to the main shopping street at the Radhuspladsen end.
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