“Vamos, vamos Cuencanos/Esta noche tenemos que ganar” (“Come on, come on people of Cuenca/ Tonight we have to win”). That’s all the Spanish you need to be a welcome guest at the Alejandro Serranos Aguilar Stadium, home to the occasionally mighty Deportivo Cuenca. The team may not be world-beaters, but the atmosphere takes some beating: flares are lit, songs calling the parentage of the referee into question are sung, and everyone alternates between bouncing up and down and downing contraband Zhumir, the local firewater. Maybe it’s not so important that they win after all…

Just off Av. Vicente Fray Solano, the main street in the south of the city. Just follow the red shirts;
Matches usually happen on a Sunday morning or Friday night (much better), but like anything in Ecuador it’s a movable feast, so check locally.

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