It is a cafe, cultural centre, and shop. The cafe has tables outside overlooking the Plaza San Fransisco which is very beautiful. The shop sells indigenous art ranging from clothing to paintings and jewellery.

Plaza San Fransisco, Quito

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Source of arguably the best coffee in Quito, it’s the perfect place to get a day of sightseeing off to a civilised start. A little pricey by the standards of the Mariscal district, but worth every centavo if you have been on a steady diet of chicken and rice for several weeks. Real bacon, bagels, pancakes, fresh juices ... and that coffee. Let it work its magic.

Foch No 681 and Juan Leon Mera (by Ave Amazonas); tel: (593 2) 2566 181/2906 105;
www.ecuadorexplorer.com/magic

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If you do stay in Quito you must stay in this wonderful hotel. An old hacienda with beautiful individual rooms covered in murals - many have open fires, four-poster beds, Victorian baths, balconies - and delicious food including home-made bread and preserves. Worth staying in Quito just to stay here.

www.cafecultura.com

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If you have an afternoon to spare, why not take a walk down to the historic village of Guapulo.

Take a taxi to the Camino de Orellana, just next to the Hotel Quito - five minutes from the Mariscal.

At the top of the winding round down to the village you will find a small bar, Mirador de Guapulo, where you can enjoy a light lunch with typical Ecuadorean platters, whilst looking out over the fabulous view of Guapulo and its historic church.

From here you can either follow the cobbled street down the hill or take the short cut through the small park in front of the bar. Wear good shoes as the road is steep. On the way down you will see a range of interesting old buildings.

The area has a bohemian atmosphere and is home to many artists. At the bottom sits the beautiful Sancturia de Guapulo, Quito's oldest colonial church, facing onto a small square. In front of the church is a statue of Fransisco de Orellana, the Conquistador who sailed the length of the Amazon to the Atlantic Ocean in 1542. There is a small taxi rank opposite the church, where you can get a ride back up to the city.

Taxi to Hotel Quito and then by foot.

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The name means “my old slum” in Argentina, but a slum so inviting you’re unlikely to find anywhere. Run by an Argentinian family, by way of New York, the menu is simple: great food (steaks and burgers a speciality, naturally), reasonably priced wine or beer, check tablecloths, and a constant buzz of conversation. Add in the owner, who likes you to do things his way, and walls covered in images of El Diego, and suddenly slumming it seems pretty attractive.

Address: Corner of Juan Leon Mera and Foch
Telephone: 593 2 2228 538

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