San Francisco is the Jake La Motta of Ecuadorian churches – you just can’t knock it down. It has survived the eruption of Pichincha Volcano in 1582, an earthquake in 1868 that toppled its towers, and a further eruption – this time of the volcano Gua-Gua Pichincha – in 1999, to win the title of longest-standing church on the continent. Currently, and unsurprisingly, undergoing restoration, San Francisco is considered the indigenous church – a champion of the people if you like. Dark and gloomy within, most of the light comes reflected from the huge gold-leaf nave. Built on the site of an Inca temple, San Francisco is as tough and stoic as its worshippers.

Hours: Mon-Sat 7-11:30 am and 3-5:30 pm; Sun 7am – noon.
Location: Plaza San Francisco, Old Town.
Telephone: 02-221-1124

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“Soy un indio, carajo!” (“I’m an indian, dammit!”). So declared Oswaldo Guayasamin, Ecuador’s most famous artist. Son of an indigenous father and mixed-race mother, this conflict influenced much of Guayasamin’s works and produced an artist of fiercely strong social conscience.

It’s hard to escape Guayasamin in Ecuador – every tourist stall flogs t-shirts bearing the image of his distinctive emaciated figures, with their oversized hands and eyes. But to really appreciate his genius, you need to visit the not one but two neighbouring museums dedicated to the maestro.

The Guayasamin Museum – located in the artist’s former house – is a peaceful spot in which to enjoy some of his most famous sequences. His depictions of grieving war-mothers and dodgy characters in the Pentagon are as relevant as ever.

The Chapel of Man is different. Built to the artist’s specifications but not completed before his death in 1999, it’s an impressive bunker-like building with a stunning view over the city. Its huge walls accommodate the larger paintings and quotes by the artist, who continued to rage against imperialism to the last. Powerful stuff.

Calle José Bosmediano 543, Barrio Bellavista, El Batán;
Corner of Mariano Calvache y Lorenzo Chavez, Bellavista, Quito;
Taxi up to Chapel of Man and walk down to museum is the easiest way;
tel: 593 2 2446455 / 2452938 / 2465265;
fax: 593 2 2446277;
email:guayasamin@uio.satnet.net;
www.capilladelhombre.com, www.guayasamin.com

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If you only visit one church in Ecuador – and that in itself would be something of a miracle – this should be it. Unprepossessing from the outside, the interior is capable of inspiring awe in the most jaded, seen-it-all travellers. Described by some (mainly Ecuadorians, one suspects) as South America’s Sistine Chapel, and covered aisle-to-spire in gold leaf, it’s an incredible display of baroque workmanship. Or maybe an obscene display of wealth, built by the Jesuits with the blood and sweat of indigenous labourers. Whatever your opinion, it’s a thought-provoking must-see.

Hours: Mon – Fri 10 am – 1 pm and 2-5 pm; Sat 10 am – 1 pm
Location: Calle Garcia Moreno and Sucre

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