Perched high on a hill overlooking the Old Town, Quito’s Basilica is well worth the climb. In the grand Ecuadorian tradition of church-building, it is still unfinished after over 100 years of construction, but reopened fairly recently for services in its cavernous interior. The view from high atop one of the Gothic structure’s main towers is the real attraction of the Basilica, though. Accessible via an unlikely elevator and a series of steep ladders, you pass behind the great clock face to find the city and surrounding mountains spread out below you. Looking down across the tiled roofs and spires of the colonial quarter to the mound of the Winged Virgin “Panecillo,” you feel like you too could take flight.

At the corner of Calle Venezuela and Carchí

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“Soy un indio, carajo!” (“I’m an indian, dammit!”). So declared Oswaldo Guayasamin, Ecuador’s most famous artist. Son of an indigenous father and mixed-race mother, this conflict influenced much of Guayasamin’s works and produced an artist of fiercely strong social conscience.

It’s hard to escape Guayasamin in Ecuador – every tourist stall flogs t-shirts bearing the image of his distinctive emaciated figures, with their oversized hands and eyes. But to really appreciate his genius, you need to visit the not one but two neighbouring museums dedicated to the maestro.

The Guayasamin Museum – located in the artist’s former house – is a peaceful spot in which to enjoy some of his most famous sequences. His depictions of grieving war-mothers and dodgy characters in the Pentagon are as relevant as ever.

The Chapel of Man is different. Built to the artist’s specifications but not completed before his death in 1999, it’s an impressive bunker-like building with a stunning view over the city. Its huge walls accommodate the larger paintings and quotes by the artist, who continued to rage against imperialism to the last. Powerful stuff.

Calle José Bosmediano 543, Barrio Bellavista, El Batán;
Corner of Mariano Calvache y Lorenzo Chavez, Bellavista, Quito;
Taxi up to Chapel of Man and walk down to museum is the easiest way;
tel: 593 2 2446455 / 2452938 / 2465265;
fax: 593 2 2446277;
email:guayasamin@uio.satnet.net;
www.capilladelhombre.com, www.guayasamin.com

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Standing at 4794m above the city, the majestic summit of Guagua Pichincha is a symbol of Quito. Several companies will drive you up the volcano side in a jeep, but if you're the adventurous type then you might want to consider hiking up to the top. Ride the bus to the hillside barrio of Mena Dos, catch a taxi to the small town of Lloa, then simply follow the road up. You can spend the night at the refuge (4550m) for a few dollars, although don't expect any home comforts and take some warm clothes, a sleeping bag, food and plenty of water. You can then ascend to the volcanic peak in the morning when visibility is likely to be better, and you may have a view of the Avenue of volcanoes on the other side of the valley. Visitors are warned about the presence of thieves on Pichincha's lower summit - Rucu - but Guagua appears to be less of a risk. However, you should be on your guard at all times and leave note of your plans back at the hostel. Altitude sickness is another potential danger for which you should be appropriately prepared.

Mena Dos, Lloa, Rifugio Guagua Pichincha (check the refuge is open before ascending)

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The Cerro del Panecillo - literally bread-bun hill - is a natural point from which to observe Quito. Situated alongside the Historical Centre, with the skyscrapers of the rich Northern districts to one side and the increasingly irregular rooftops of the poorer Southern barrios to the other, it provides a fascinating overview of this city of contrasts.

Visitors are advised to take a taxi up to the hilltop statue of the Virgin as the risk of robberies is considered to be a threat, even in daylight hours. If you have the time it's worth making the trip during the day but also at night, when even the lights tell of a divided Quito, with bright neon signs visible in the North and muted streetlights in the South.

Cerro El Panecillo Costado del Centro Historico

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